GEC's Layout Progress

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Some more progress on my geeps-



NJ DOT GP7 #5681-

I added the Plano intakes, A-200 horns, spark arrestors, the cab signal box, the "mystery box" above it, and the bell mount. I scratch built the bell mount from thin styrene following the exact same pattern as the real one. Mind bendingly difficult? definitely, but i think the results were worth it. The only issue is that the metal bell casting from the Custom Finishing piece looks a bit to big, so I might have to find a smaller bell and use that.

Also somewhat frustrating was the cab signal box housing. I'll probably pull the box out and redo it. The main problem is that the deck is getting so thin that its breaking relatively easily, and I've already had to replace part of it with styrene because is snapped off into oblivion.

That said, most of the "heavy duty" details have been added now, and certainly all the CNJ specific details. I can now begin adding some of the minor parts that came with the kit so that I can get it ready for painting.

Apart from the pilots, which need to be rebuilt, the only other details I need to add are the body louvers present on both sides of the short hood. Plano makes SW louvers that should be close enough, so I'll have my LHS order them. I'll mount them on a plate made from super thin styrene, and that should look right on the model.

The only major challenge to getting an accurate GP7 pilot. Unfortunately, though almost all the other details of the P2k GP7 were correct for this CNJ unit, the pilots are not correct. The P2k GP18 has the correct pilot for itself and the GP7, and so I'll probably use that as a guide while I chisel and drill the pilots. I was hoping someone might make the pilot as a separate part, but I can't find one specific for the GP7, though there are many for other EMD types.





The scratchbuilt bell housing. I used thicker styrene to make the upside down "L", and then super thin styrene for the side pieces. I then sanded things down once it was a solid piece. I even put brace "behind" the bell to the hood, which took some shaping with jewelers files to match the profile.




Here is the cab signal box area. I still have no idea what the "white box" is for. It appears to only be present on CNJ 1523/ NJT 5681. I might need to file it down to be a little more square, but its only held on by micro crystal clear, so I can remove it if I need to.

You can see that the walkway above the cab signal box is a little rough, and so I might try to hone it down a little more. This area has become very delicate, even though I've mounted the deck piece to it directly to give it strength. A chunk had to be filled in with some conveniently sized styrene I had on hand.



I'm thinking I'm going to have to fill in the "center" parts of this rear housing as well. this area is definitely smooth on the prototype, and I worry that I won't be able to live with the seem once I paint it.



It definitely seems like the Plano intake grills and shudders were a valid investment! As long as it doesn't get clogged with paint, these will look fantastic. You'll notice both models even have the "drains" in the bottom of the radiator screens, something not present on the cast on detail.

Radiator intakes on the GP7



The shudders needed to be folded from a brass sheet. Once folded, the shudders can be adjusted to be open or closed. They are open in this photo, but i made mine mostly closed.



I drilled out the original radiator screens, and test fit the shudders before I removed the "frame" of the cast on intakes. The frame worked as a guide for making a "square" opening for the shudders. Once I was satisfied, I used #17 chisel blade to carefully scrape the frame away, and a sanding stick to smooth out the area beneath it.




Conrail GP18 #7499

I didn't do as much to the GP18, but then it doesn't need a whole lot of significant modification, with one major exception. The LV GP18s had a smaller fuel tank than the stock GP18. There is a noticeable gap between the air reservoirs and the back of the fuel tank, and so this needs to be cut. The main problem is that it cuts through some of the motor mounts. there should still be enough of a mount there to hold the motor in place, it just won't have the back two mounts unless I find a different method (screws maybe?).

In any event, I added a "stand in" horn until I can find a better casting. The stock horn had two bells facing forward, and I just cut the large bell and reversed it, flipping the horn around to look close to the prototype's. It is only press fit in, so I can replace it when I find a better horn.

I also added the plano intakes, which again, look fantastic.

At this point I can go ahead and start adding in some of the "stock" details that came with the GP18, and get ready to paint it. The only frustrating issue is that the model was OLD, and it looks like someone broke the tabs on the rear of the shell, which is why the deck seems to sag a little. I'll have to "make" my own, if possible.








Intakes on the GP18. These were a little easier to apply, except for the rain gutters that had to be glued in place. The GP18 came with its own shudders.