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Recently while reading a post about weathering I saw a reference made that denatured alcohol found in a hardware store and Rubbing alcohol are quite a bit different. In checking I found this to be somewhat true-- however both are "denatured" to the extent that neither are drinkable. I have always used rubbing alcohol in my modeling work -- both for diluting ink and as a thinner etc------is it possible I could have gotten better results with true hardware store "denatured alcohol? I am serious in this question --is there really a difference --if so, I WILL get the proper type.
Thanks Dave
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Rubbing alcohol is diluted isopropyl alcohol and is naturally undrinkable. The most common is 70% alcohol and 30% water although you can find it diluted to 90%. Denatured alcohol is pure alcohol that comes from grain and intentionally has other things added to make it undrinkable. I would think that any of these would work but the denatured alcohol you get in the hardware store might be a bit more harsh than rubbing alcohol. The one big difference is the water content of rubbing alcohol, but in my opinion, it's more than adequate for our purposes. I use the 90% stuff and can get it just about anywhere although It runs about twice as much as the 70% stuff. I've even used it to wash brushes out that have hardened because I didn't wash them out while the acrylic paint was still wet.
Don (ezdays) Day
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I have used 50% rubbing alcohol from the dollar store to wet scenic materials and to dilute glue. It is easy this way, since it is already 50%, you don't need to further dilute it with water.
Andrew
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I use 91% Isopropyl, for paint stripping ( works super on Athearn Blue Box ).
I use "Denatured", as a fuel for the alcohol soldering torch I use for ship model "ironwork", and some locomotive detailing / repair.
I usually use Windex, for ballast preparation, before adding the thinned white glue.
I usually "dry brush" weathering effects.
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OK Thanks everybody --- I will try some hardware store type --- tho it seems that what I have used did not do me any damage. I too have used windex and W/S washer soultion on occasion.
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I prefer Maker's Mark myself. But for your purposes, isopropyl is probably a bit cheaper.
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railohio Wrote:I prefer Maker's Mark myself. But for your purposes, isopropyl is probably a bit cheaper.
I never aquired a taste for alcohol So I always told Dr.s no when asked if I used alcohol , which is true, probably have not drunk a pint in my whole life.---- Really kind of upset me when I found out what they put down in your medical file when you tell them you don't drink---- " Denies ABUSE of alcohol" is what they write!!
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I've used the 70% isopropyl for diluting India ink, but haven't found any other use for it. The 99% version is good for stripping some brands of paint and I suppose it would work for thinning India ink, too. I find the odour of both to be very irritating, so don't use it for much else. The only hardware store alcohol of which I'm aware is methyl hydrate, commonly used for thinning shellac. I used it for years for stripping paint from plastic body shells, and it was very effective on Athearn, MDC, Train Miniature, and the like. For Atlas and Rivarossi, results varied from good to almost useless.
It's main drawback is that it's very volatile and the fumes are not very good for your health. Even worse, the liquid is readily absorbed through the skin (and the vapours through your eyes). Short term effects include nerve damage, and it's harmful, over time, to the liver and kidneys. I no longer use it very often (it's much less effective removing modern paints) but I've had a lot of exposure to it over the years before I was aware of the dangers. If I use it nowadays, it's while wearing nitrile gloves and a two-stage respirator. The horse, however, has probably already left the barn.
Wayne
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I don't know if anyone else has tried this but I learned it from the late Mike Chambers of Railroad Line Forum several years back . In order to recreate the drips and stains on an industrial water tank ( or many other things ) Mike would alternately drip alcohol ( 90% ) and bottled Dullcoat .....looked very realistic . I've even tried sprayed Dullcoat and dripping the alcohol while the Dullcoat was wet for different results . I would suggest experimenting on styrene that has been painted with flat black or red oxide ...you might like the results !
Terry
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teejay Wrote:I don't know if anyone else has tried this but I learned it from the late Mike Chambers of Railroad Line Forum several years back . In order to recreate the drips and stains on an industrial water tank ( or many other things ) Mike would alternately drip alcohol ( 90% ) and bottled Dullcoat .....looked very realistic . I've even tried sprayed Dullcoat and dripping the alcohol while the Dullcoat was wet for different results . I would suggest experimenting on styrene that has been painted with flat black or red oxide ...you might like the results !
Terry
I often used this trick when I did my first weathering job. Most effective for drips. Ive seen people using it to fade car colors, but that is most a matter of hit or miss.
Matt
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sailormatlac Wrote:teejay Wrote:I don't know if anyone else has tried this but I learned it from the late Mike Chambers of Railroad Line Forum several years back . In order to recreate the drips and stains on an industrial water tank ( or many other things ) Mike would alternately drip alcohol ( 90% ) and bottled Dullcoat .....looked very realistic . I've even tried sprayed Dullcoat and dripping the alcohol while the Dullcoat was wet for different results . I would suggest experimenting on styrene that has been painted with flat black or red oxide ...you might like the results !
Terry
I often used this trick when I did my first weathering job. Most effective for drips. Ive seen people using it to fade car colors, but that is most a matter of hit or miss.
Matt
Perhaps someone should test and analyze rain water --- Might be part alcohol and part dullcoat thats why it weathers so effectively in real life! :hey:
Dave
Instant glue ? ---- SOLDER ---- NOW THATS INSTANT!