Hello,
i have just seen some picture have disappeared. As it is not possible to edit older threads here they all come in a new article:
The test rail.
Putting some force to it to made it really bad.
A 2-10-0 with traditional European deep flanges and traditional running stiff gear.
In normal the deep flanges prevent derailing.
Here some of the deep flanges are actually raised above the railhead causing derailments.
The same type 2-10-0 with modified running gear under exact the same conditions.
All wheels will stay on the railhead.
Now you can reduce the deep flanges to "civilised" depths like RP25.
Here i overdue is with flange depths of app. 0.3mm just to show that a safe riding woth this tiny flanges is still possible.
Now a 50' box car (P2K) with traditional loosened and tightened screw method.
A closer look.
The same type of car (also P2K) with a 3-point device.
Here are two Trix/Märklin box cars equipped with 3-point suspension. Quick and dirty created by 2 pieces of styrene profile.
The cars got also body mounted Kadee Coupler and coupler boxes.
Nearly all of my cars were equipped with 3-point suspension.
Meanwhile a made a new testbed:
This is only a testbed for testing running gears and suspensions to see how and if they will work, not a layout degree of quality!
Interestingly if you ride slowly over such treated rails you can see the cars (all equipped with 3-point suspensions of course) gently rocking like the prototype.
But if you have European prototype and some of the modern 4-wheel cars with 8m (app. 26.25ft) axle stands and you will ride with low profile flanges:
Then it is absolutely necessary to equip those cars with a 3-point suspension.
Here i created some solutions of this problem. In normal the traditional deep flanges will prevent derailments. But when the flanges are not so deep ...
You will have to do something.
A common German Diesel switcher (V60, Roco model), wheel flanges turned down to 0.5mm and running gear equipped with 3-point suspension.
On the test track:
Watch the wheels taking the "hole" in the rail.
There is no stalling any more.
All wheels stay on the railheads and will pick up the current properly.
And there are no derailments.
And what will work here under this extreme conditions, will work on the layout also.
In conclusion:
European H0 rolling stock and rail systems are much more toy train like,
with deep flanges and narrow curves it is like an 1:87 scaled down traditional Lionel Toy Train.
The quality of detailing has rised in the last years, but the running gears are still according to 1930's standards.
[ironical modus] Genehmigt vom Reichministerium für Spielzeuge (RMfS)
[/ironical modus]
This also contains switchers which have ex box the capabililty of running speeds: fast, faster, still faster.
Only in still faster speed they have certain chances to take switches without stalling.
You have to do a lot of work to made smooth running and good looking models out of those toy train like locos and cars.
US H0 rolling stock and rails are much more prototypical designed. The most work here is confined to optical work to get them still closer to the prototype.
Only in exceptional cases you have to work on running gears. Older brass locos are such exceptions.
And that was my expierience with stalling German switchers, that brought me to make the modifications on this Athearn MP15AC.
Switcher stalling, please no.
My 2 cent.
Lutz