HO Scale B&O ALCO PA1 & PA1B. Both are powered - Athearn - $80 plus shipping

   

   

Rivarossi HO Scale B&O Passenger Cars - 6 Cars in total - 1 RPO - 4 Passenger Cars - 1 Observation - All Heavy Weights - $70 plus shipping

A couple of the passenger cars don't have the couplers or coupler covers as this is how they were when I bought them 2 years ago. Private message me and I will let you know how to pay.

   

   

   

   

   

   

Micro-Trains Flatcar Build | Quick Load Upgrade & Weathering

Hey guys, welcome back to Jack on Tracks – The Back Shop!

In this episode, we take a break from the big builds and dive into a quick N scale project, upgrading a Micro-Trains flatcar with a custom deck, tarp repaint, and simple weathering techniques to bring it to life.

This is a short, relaxing build—but packed with useful tips for anyone modeling in N scale or HO scale.

I was looking for a small sawmill for my logging camp and found an old issue of Keystone's Dandy sawmill. The was however copied here in Canada by Juneco and that's the model I bought. The kit was advertised and started but complete.

   

However when I opened the box I had my doubts.

   

The wood content in the box seems a bit thin. I do believe that all the metal castings are present and that's what it most important.

   

It is a pretty small sawmil. The footprint is about 4 X 7". Mostly I'm thinking it's a rough-cut sawmill that supplies the logging camp's needs and sends surplus rough cuts to other customers.

   

The first step is to build the foundation beams. A quick inventory of the wood strips  and I found that all those parts were missing. 

   

I did have a pack of scale 8X8 from Mt. Albert scale lumber that fit that was the same size. 

   

I cut all the parts needed and thay went into an Alcohol and India Ink bath. They're currently drying before I start assembly.

Since our operations group disbanded thinking of doing a new layout.  This should be up and running in no time.

   

   

Bruce

I have a HO MRC Alco C420 loco for sale.  $8.00 plus $10.00 for shipping.  There are no coupler screws or couplers.  It runs but is jerky.

   

   

Bruce

I have the following locomotives for sale,

Atlas HO Conrail MP15AC #9626, has Kadee couplers and a NCE N141P decoder installed. $65.00 plus $10.00 shipping.

   

   

Proto 1000 HO Conrail GP15-1 #1650, has Kadee couplers and a NCE D13SR decoder installed, $50.00 plus $10.00 shipping.

   

   

Bruce

i have a atlas number 6 curved turnout that has been giving me fits trains will run through it fine for a while then suddenly they stall in the turnout i have installed numerous jumpers to no ad vale its a nickel silver custom line code 100. i hate the thoughts of shelling out the price of a replacement to have it do the same thing. any thoughts of what night be the problem.
Jim

Found a site by accident.  I take that back.  Found a site because I was trying to hunt down a Canadian National bell and bell bracket for my GP35 project. 

The intial supplier didn't deliver, so I did some more searching and found CMR Products | Trains & Everything Else!  They have a ridiculous number of decal sheets with some fairly obscure stuff.  They also 3D print a lot of detail parts including (smack my head) a rock plow that I still need for the GP35.  Their catalog downloads are free and their site is really nice.  Thought I'd pass along the find.  Looks like this is another internet only business that ships from Brookville, PA.  Looks like mostly HO/N and Z gauge products.

Hi everyone, this hydrocal drug store kit from Ed Fulasz #15 is a kit that I bought years ago.
Ed no longer sells his kit, but they are still available from "Railroad kits"
Here's what the kit looks like out of the box.

   

The base for the drug store has sidewalks around all 4 sides.
So not needing sidewalks on all 4 sides I carefully cut off 2 of them.
I then glued a piece of styrene to the bottom of this base for extra strength.

   

   

The kit's walls are beautifully detailed with all window and door openings closed.
The kit's instuctions suggest just painting these closed openings black, and then glue the window & door castings over top.
However I wanted to light & add an interior to my store, so I carefully cut out the front walls window & door openings.
I the used 5 minute epoxy to glue the walls together.
I did not glue the walls down to the base.

   

   

Hydrocal is very absorbent so I seal all of my castings with white spray paint first, to help take away most of that absorbency.
You do this by applying several light coats of spray paint, trying not to obscure any of the cast in detail of the bricks.
I then start to apply the paint used to colour the brick. The first colour I used is "Craft smart" Terra Cotta.

   

I then use "Americana" Burnt Sienna thinned out with water as a second wash over top of the Terra Cotta.
It is very important to allow each coat of paint to dry throughly.
I then painted the odd brick here & there with a slightly darker tone.
Then I painted all of the window & door openings & trim using 2 different colours of green.
I also glued into place all of the widows & door castings into their openings.

   

I then added the sign above the front door and to the sidewall.
I then tried using "Robert's Brick Mortar Formula" to the brickwalls.

   

I then went to work creating an interior and LED lighting to this store.
This is how it all came out looking in the end.

   

   

   

Thanks for having a look.

Greg













I then use a thinned out with water "Americana" Burnt Sienna over top of my Terra Cotta.
It is important to allow each coat of paint to dry completely.
I then painted up all of the other details of this drug store using 2 different shades of green.
Also installing all of the window & door castings into their openings.

Building an Overton Passenger Train – Rebuilding a Budget Steam Locomotive ?
There’s something special about bringing an old train back to life. In this project, we’re kicking off the build of a full Overton passenger train consist, starting with a budget-friendly steam locomotive that turned out to be much more of a project than expected.
What began as a quick repair quickly turned into a deep dive into decoder troubleshooting, wiring fixes, and future lighting upgrades. And honestly—that’s part of what makes model railroading so rewarding.
This is the start of a series that will cover everything from locomotive electronics to detailed passenger interiors.
Let’s get into it.

• Decoder problems
  
• Wiring that needed attention
  
• Some questionable previous work
  

• Installing passenger interiors
  
• Painting and detailing seats and walls
  
• Preparing cars for lighting
  
• Final assembly and detailing
  

• Fitting the interior components
  
• Making sure everything clears the trucks and couplers
  
• Preparing surfaces for paint
  

• Even illumination throughout the car
  
• Minimal wiring clutter
  
• Reliable electrical pickup
  
• Warm, realistic light color