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+--- Thread: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge (/showthread.php?tid=4722)
Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - Justinmiller171 - 01-07-2012
My New Years resolution will be to finally build a layout, the layout will be fairly "generic" so if I feel the need to change the theme I can just change scenery. The layout will be 14" by 6', a 3-foot long removable staging track may also be added.
The layout will take place at the end of an industrial spur, the inglenook will be formed by a lumber dealer at the end of the spur, I also might have a facing spur leading to a "hidden industry" to accommodate a larger variety for freight cars.
A typical train would be about 2-3 cars long. since there is no runaround, cars headed to the hidden industry will be staged behind the engine.
This layout WILL be built, I will probably make some changes to the plan, but I will build it. I will be headed to the hardware store in a few days to pick up wood for benchwork.
This layout will be build fairly quick, but not too quick
Here is the current track-plan:
![[Image: Inglenook.jpg]](http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab4/Justinmiller171/Inglenook.jpg)
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - Tyson Rayles - 01-07-2012
Good to hear Justin! As they say the hardest part of building a layout is getting started.
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - sailormatlac - 01-07-2012
Don't forget that simple looking plan doesn't mean simplistic operation! ;-)
Matt
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - Sumpter250 - 01-07-2012
Tyson Rayles Wrote:Good to hear Justin! As they say the hardest part of building a layout is getting started.
I always found that "getting started" was easy, the hard part was when I realized that I had no idea where I was going.
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - shortliner - 01-07-2012
Justin - for an Inglenook your lead track needs to be the length of your shortest spur+a loco, otherwise it becomes too simple ie on your drawing it should be two cars and a loco
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - Tyson Rayles - 01-07-2012
Sumpter250 Wrote:Tyson Rayles Wrote:Good to hear Justin! As they say the hardest part of building a layout is getting started.
I always found that "getting started" was easy, the hard part was when I realized that I had no idea where I was going.
Hey Pete we finally have Justin going in the right direction, don't discourage him now!
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - Justinmiller171 - 01-07-2012
shortliner Wrote:Justin - for an Inglenook your lead track needs to be the length of your shortest spur+a loco, otherwise it becomes too simple ie on your drawing it should be two cars and a loco
When operating it as an inglenook I will remove the staging and hidden industry, the lead on the layout is about 2 feet which can hold a loco + 2 60' flats.
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - doctorwayne - 01-22-2012
Looking forward to watching your progress, Justin. Don't be stingy with the photos.
Wayne
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - Justinmiller171 - 01-28-2012
Turns out an inglenook isn't much fun to me, I have decided to do a Lance Mindheim style layout instead, using either one or two 18" by 80" hollow core doors.
I will be visiting the hardware store tomorrow to pick up the door(s). I will then try out some track arrangements and then come up with a "final" track-plan. I am almost certain I can have an operating layout with some scenery done by the April 1st deadline.
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - Tyson Rayles - 01-28-2012
I've never heard of a 18" door? Would it not be cheaper to get a 36" door and split it?
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - ngauger - 01-28-2012
Tyson Rayles Wrote:I've never heard of a 18" door? Would in not be cheaper to get a 36" door and split it?Nope --- haing seen the "fun" of cutting down a door, it's way eaiser and cheaper to buy an 18" door and have the support all around on both "long sides" than to cut down a door and have the opening on the long side (hollow). The full door will be a lot stronger. Hollow doors come in 18" X 78" and 18" X 80" (trade sizes: 1'6" X 6'6" and 1'6" X 6'8" )
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - Tyson Rayles - 01-28-2012
Mikey I didn't mean to leave the cut side empty, It would be easy enough to insert a peice of wood in the opening.
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - ngauger - 01-28-2012
Tyson Rayles Wrote:Mikey I didn't mean to leave the cut side empty, It would be easy enough to insert a peice of wood in the opening.Yeah - but it's still not as strong as a whole bought door
I knew that's what you meant too I'm also pointing out the "cutting operation" too.. Yes, our guys put wood in there too, but then you have to buy the wood if you don't have it laying around. An added cost too.
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - doctorwayne - 01-28-2012
You can get narrower doors, too, as bifolds. I just measured one in the next room, and each panel is 14.75" wide. They're probably available even narrower and possibly without having to buy the whole kit. Also, check for bifolds where one of the pair has been damaged - stores will often prefer to sell at a big discount, rather than return it to the manufacturer.
Wayne
Re: Justinmiller171's 2012 Resolution Challenge - Justinmiller171 - 01-28-2012
Tyson Rayles Wrote:I've never heard of a 18" door? Would it not be cheaper to get a 36" door and split it?
The Re-store has foldable 36" doors that are made up of two 18" doors. The Re-store sells these for about $5.
Unfortunately I wasn't able to get the doors today, however I will be getting them in the next few days. I already have the track so it won't be much longer until I can get some pictures up