12-16-2015, 09:20 PM
Steel straightedge and sharp knife. If you can find a blade that's only beveled on one side, even better. I like a straightedge that doesn't have any backing (I have one with a cork no-slip surface that I avoid.)
Measure a bunch of times. I mark near each end of the cut with the blade, then I hold the blade in the top mark, move the straightedge up to it, then rotate it to the other mark. You need to guess how far off the blade will cut.
Draw the knife lightly down the straightedge, pushing or turning it slightly in so that it doesn't wander. Then repeat many times. If you have plain plastic, after a cetain point you may be able to bend it and snap.
If you have really thick plastic, try what we call a scrawker. This is a blade that has a bit of a curl and the cutting surface is at the front and digs out a trough. Mine was sold as a Plexiglass knife.
Measure a bunch of times. I mark near each end of the cut with the blade, then I hold the blade in the top mark, move the straightedge up to it, then rotate it to the other mark. You need to guess how far off the blade will cut.
Draw the knife lightly down the straightedge, pushing or turning it slightly in so that it doesn't wander. Then repeat many times. If you have plain plastic, after a cetain point you may be able to bend it and snap.
If you have really thick plastic, try what we call a scrawker. This is a blade that has a bit of a curl and the cutting surface is at the front and digs out a trough. Mine was sold as a Plexiglass knife.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.