04-22-2009, 01:52 PM
I should probably elaborate on the foil idea a bit. There's really TWO ways (at least...I bet there are more if you're creative) to utilize foil for rockwork. ONE - crinkle the foil into a loose ball then open it and use that as a mold by either filling it with peanut-butter consistancy plaster or smearing the plaster in place and pressing the foil onto that. TWO - crinkle the foil into a ball but DON'T open it again. Spread the plaster in place and dab the crinkly ball or roll it across the plaster once it is well on its way to setting. I bet your kiddo would enjoy the second one the best.
Once the plaster has set here's a simple technique for painting the rock face. (again, no offense if you don't use this technique, just add it to your options). First drench it with your base rock color. Let that dry, somewhat. Next, taking a soft broad brush, load the brush with a black wash of your choice. Starting at the bottom of the rock face drag the brush up to the top. The wash should flow into the cracks and the upward stroke should hit the shadows more than the exposed upper sides of the rock. Again, let that mostly dry. Finally, lighten your base rock color by a third or half or so with white or gray or a light tan, depending on your base. Dry brush this from the top down, to hit the upsides of the rock.
This is just a basic coloring scheme. I like to wash the base dirt color over the rocks as well, depending on whether it's a cut or an exposed face that has been washed with rain and the sun for eons. But you can do that when you color the scenery surrounding the rock face.
Keep us posted!
Galen
Once the plaster has set here's a simple technique for painting the rock face. (again, no offense if you don't use this technique, just add it to your options). First drench it with your base rock color. Let that dry, somewhat. Next, taking a soft broad brush, load the brush with a black wash of your choice. Starting at the bottom of the rock face drag the brush up to the top. The wash should flow into the cracks and the upward stroke should hit the shadows more than the exposed upper sides of the rock. Again, let that mostly dry. Finally, lighten your base rock color by a third or half or so with white or gray or a light tan, depending on your base. Dry brush this from the top down, to hit the upsides of the rock.
This is just a basic coloring scheme. I like to wash the base dirt color over the rocks as well, depending on whether it's a cut or an exposed face that has been washed with rain and the sun for eons. But you can do that when you color the scenery surrounding the rock face.
Keep us posted!
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!