03-30-2024, 08:23 PM
I have been playing with different paints, the big reason is price. The old floquil paints were IMHO the best for airbrushing and I used lacquer thinner to thin them (50-50). You get a better job with thinner paint and more coats. Using solvent based paints apply a thin coat and allow it to dry, usually 5 minutes is enough then apply more coats until you are satisfied with coverage then apply a wet even coat to finish off. Keep in mind that the difference between a perfect paint job and runs in the paint is a very fine line and you have to get the feel for that. I have a harder time getting enough paint on most of the time, I have also found that the paint doesn't have to be perfect because you will be adding decals and then clear coating, either gloss or dull coat and the weathering your project,
I have just started using the new paints and they seem to be alright but finding the correct thinner is a problem. Some use water or alcohol and some use thinner. I had some rustoleum acrylic enamel in green and I thinned it with alcohol and it sprayed beautifully. I tried the same brand and type in yellow and nothing I had would thin it so it would spray.
For your models I suggest you go to a hobby shop and get the colors and paint there. Do some practice first. Don't get crazy wild about color matching because paints, especially the ones used on railroad equipment in the 40's and 50's were prone to sun fading and chalking rapidly.
If you can find a small lazy susan to put your models on to paint that is a help, even a larger plate that you can spin to get all sides. I start with my cars upside done and spray down so I get the bottoms and the undersides of beams and even the undersides of doors, then turn them over to finish
Ideal temperature is 68 to 70° but as you get the handle on it you won't find temperature or anything else a problem because you get the feel and just do it when you feel like it.
I am playing with the acrylic paints made by Plaid and they have a lot of promise for airbrushing but so far the problems have been finding a suitable strainer and keeping the nozell clean because they dry so fast, but they do stick to plastic which was something I did not expect. I will try them on buildings.
Charlie
I have just started using the new paints and they seem to be alright but finding the correct thinner is a problem. Some use water or alcohol and some use thinner. I had some rustoleum acrylic enamel in green and I thinned it with alcohol and it sprayed beautifully. I tried the same brand and type in yellow and nothing I had would thin it so it would spray.
For your models I suggest you go to a hobby shop and get the colors and paint there. Do some practice first. Don't get crazy wild about color matching because paints, especially the ones used on railroad equipment in the 40's and 50's were prone to sun fading and chalking rapidly.
If you can find a small lazy susan to put your models on to paint that is a help, even a larger plate that you can spin to get all sides. I start with my cars upside done and spray down so I get the bottoms and the undersides of beams and even the undersides of doors, then turn them over to finish
Ideal temperature is 68 to 70° but as you get the handle on it you won't find temperature or anything else a problem because you get the feel and just do it when you feel like it.
I am playing with the acrylic paints made by Plaid and they have a lot of promise for airbrushing but so far the problems have been finding a suitable strainer and keeping the nozell clean because they dry so fast, but they do stick to plastic which was something I did not expect. I will try them on buildings.
Charlie