03-29-2010, 08:48 PM
Still pluggin' away at this as time permits. I made some railings for the right side of the platforms (as viewed from the end), and decided to add splash guards. I used my X-Acto knife to cut the paired parts from some .004" brass shimstock. The vertical scribed line is the separation point between the two pieces, with the paired horizontal lines denoting the mounting straps - these will be formed around the horizontal part of the handrail, and soldered in place.
You'll also notice that there's a railing on the left side (the lower one in the above photo) - it's a temporary one to help determine the correct height for drilling a hole in the outboard stile of the ladder in order to support a stub handrail: this permits removal of the horizontal portion of the handrail which would otherwise interfere with the spacing of the ladder rungs.
I didn't take too many construction photos of the platforms, as I kept thinking of new stuff to add, not pausing to take pictures. Here's a couple of views of the completed platforms, the first of which more clearly shows the stub handrail on the left side:
Also visible are the end sill details, including the grabirons, cut lever, handbrake rocker pivot, and airhose. I also added the brake bleeder pipe up the left face of the splash guard, with the control and vent above the handrail. Other details include the retainer valve and pipe to the left of the door on the car's end, the roofwalk-end support hardware, and the locator pins for the bottom edge of the splash guard, which can also be seen. While the end safety gate (above the coupler) is currently operable, I intend to cement its latch (on the brake wheel housing) in place - I don't want to have to try soldering those pivot tabs back into place on the right handrail after the car has been painted.
Here's another view, showing the same details, along with what appeared to be a fuel tank on the original model, probably for oil for the heating stove. Since this caboose will use coal for heat, I shaved away the tank details and added a few bits to convert it into a tool box.
Also added was a smokejack for the stove and some window framing for the end windows of the bays - these had none, making installation of "glass" difficult.
The ladders and stub railings currently remain unattached, and will be added as the final step of assembly, after painting and lettering has been completed. With the split floor design, the platforms can been installed permanently (after painting), then the painted ladders can also be cemented in place, making for a sturdy assembly. I plan to airbrush the platforms, underframe and ladders, and brush paint the caboose body and any contrasting-colour details. Installation of the pre-assembled windows will be from the outside, with window shades pre-installed in the body before the windows are added.
I'm also going to add the screen doors pictured previously - they'll likely be in the latched-open position, but can't be installed until the caboose body has received its final clear coat, as I don't want to clog the screens. Here they are, painted and assembled but not yet cut from the screening material, and with the double hinges and doorknobs yet to be installed.
To make them, the screening material was simply "sandwiched" between two pre-painted .005" door panels, each of which had received a light application of lacquer thinner. The softened surfaces allowed the screen to embed itself, and the two mating surfaces to touch, bonding them together.
Here are the easy-to-make window shades which I'll be using. I use similar ones for all my passenger cars and structures, too.
Construction is very simple, using .010" or .015" sheet styrene for the shade, and strip styrene of an appropriate thickness for the gluing strip. First, cut strips of sheet styrene to various widths suitable for the windows on which the shades will be used. I make a variety of widths (which will be the length of the finished shade), then choose whichever ones I want for each window. Next, I use lacquer thinner to cement a strip of styrene along one edge, as shown:
I generally use .020"x.040", although because of the depth of the doublehung windows on the caboose, I'll be adding a second strip of similar material to the one shown. The purpose of the gluing strip is to prevent the shade from touching the window "glass", which would draw the cement into the contact area by capillary action, thereby marring the styrene "glass". For the caboose, the gluing strip will be cemented to the interior wall above the window (allowing for further variation in the length which shows from the outside). Because all joints are styrene-to-styrene, a liquid solvent-type cement can be used, ensuring a strong and permanent bond, with none of the "fogging" which often occurs when ca is used. The styrene construction also prevents curling with age.
After the gluing strip has been cemented in place, use masking tape to cover its exposed surface, then airbrush both sides and the exposed long edge of the strip of shade material, using whatever colour you choose. Once dry, use your X-Acto to cut off widths suitable for the windows on which they'll be installed.
Here are some in use:
I need to make some weights for this caboose, then wash it in preparation for painting. The deadline is looming.
Wayne
You'll also notice that there's a railing on the left side (the lower one in the above photo) - it's a temporary one to help determine the correct height for drilling a hole in the outboard stile of the ladder in order to support a stub handrail: this permits removal of the horizontal portion of the handrail which would otherwise interfere with the spacing of the ladder rungs.
I didn't take too many construction photos of the platforms, as I kept thinking of new stuff to add, not pausing to take pictures. Here's a couple of views of the completed platforms, the first of which more clearly shows the stub handrail on the left side:
Also visible are the end sill details, including the grabirons, cut lever, handbrake rocker pivot, and airhose. I also added the brake bleeder pipe up the left face of the splash guard, with the control and vent above the handrail. Other details include the retainer valve and pipe to the left of the door on the car's end, the roofwalk-end support hardware, and the locator pins for the bottom edge of the splash guard, which can also be seen. While the end safety gate (above the coupler) is currently operable, I intend to cement its latch (on the brake wheel housing) in place - I don't want to have to try soldering those pivot tabs back into place on the right handrail after the car has been painted.
Here's another view, showing the same details, along with what appeared to be a fuel tank on the original model, probably for oil for the heating stove. Since this caboose will use coal for heat, I shaved away the tank details and added a few bits to convert it into a tool box.
Also added was a smokejack for the stove and some window framing for the end windows of the bays - these had none, making installation of "glass" difficult.
The ladders and stub railings currently remain unattached, and will be added as the final step of assembly, after painting and lettering has been completed. With the split floor design, the platforms can been installed permanently (after painting), then the painted ladders can also be cemented in place, making for a sturdy assembly. I plan to airbrush the platforms, underframe and ladders, and brush paint the caboose body and any contrasting-colour details. Installation of the pre-assembled windows will be from the outside, with window shades pre-installed in the body before the windows are added.
I'm also going to add the screen doors pictured previously - they'll likely be in the latched-open position, but can't be installed until the caboose body has received its final clear coat, as I don't want to clog the screens. Here they are, painted and assembled but not yet cut from the screening material, and with the double hinges and doorknobs yet to be installed.
To make them, the screening material was simply "sandwiched" between two pre-painted .005" door panels, each of which had received a light application of lacquer thinner. The softened surfaces allowed the screen to embed itself, and the two mating surfaces to touch, bonding them together.
Here are the easy-to-make window shades which I'll be using. I use similar ones for all my passenger cars and structures, too.
Construction is very simple, using .010" or .015" sheet styrene for the shade, and strip styrene of an appropriate thickness for the gluing strip. First, cut strips of sheet styrene to various widths suitable for the windows on which the shades will be used. I make a variety of widths (which will be the length of the finished shade), then choose whichever ones I want for each window. Next, I use lacquer thinner to cement a strip of styrene along one edge, as shown:
I generally use .020"x.040", although because of the depth of the doublehung windows on the caboose, I'll be adding a second strip of similar material to the one shown. The purpose of the gluing strip is to prevent the shade from touching the window "glass", which would draw the cement into the contact area by capillary action, thereby marring the styrene "glass". For the caboose, the gluing strip will be cemented to the interior wall above the window (allowing for further variation in the length which shows from the outside). Because all joints are styrene-to-styrene, a liquid solvent-type cement can be used, ensuring a strong and permanent bond, with none of the "fogging" which often occurs when ca is used. The styrene construction also prevents curling with age.
After the gluing strip has been cemented in place, use masking tape to cover its exposed surface, then airbrush both sides and the exposed long edge of the strip of shade material, using whatever colour you choose. Once dry, use your X-Acto to cut off widths suitable for the windows on which they'll be installed.
Here are some in use:
I need to make some weights for this caboose, then wash it in preparation for painting. The deadline is looming.
Wayne