Adding handrails to GP7
#16
RobertInOntario Wrote:
Russ Bellinis Wrote:If your son is going to handle the models, he should always pick up a diesel locomotive by the tank, never by the body or handrails. That being said, I would recommend that you use piano wire of the correct size rather than brass wire. It is tougher, and less likely to bend or distort.

Hm, thanks, Russ. I'll consider piano wire then, especially if it's tougher. I'll tell my son (or try to!) about how to pick the locos up, etc.. He's pretty good with our MRR stuff, although there is some damage now & then, which I simply tolerate. I'd sooner allow him some freedom (i.e. take some risks) here to encourage his railway interest, rather than put him off.

the down side to piano wire is that it is more difficult to form and destroys your cutters very quickly. It also rusts. Brass is far more easy to work with and not so harsh on your equipment. In the long run, brass wire is more likely to pop off the stanchion than get kinked due to rough handling. At that point, the steel wire would also come off. Besides, smokey valley stanchions themselves are "soft", and will flex easily.

Trust me, i use the same size Piano wire you would use for your handrails as my wires for my Catenary poles and trolley wires. If you go this route, get purpose-made Hard Wire cutters, and coat it in a good layer of paint so that it doesn't begin to rust away (which I'm already seeing on some parts of my catenary structures). It might help to make a jig as well, as the piano wire is going to be tough to bend.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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