08-11-2011, 11:52 PM
Sheesh! I must've been busier than I thought, as this is the first I've seen this thread. 
As I mentioned elsewhere, Gus, you did a great job on this loco. 
You may be able to lower the pilot and all that's attached to it fairly easily if it can be easily removed. If I recall correctly, that loco has an extension of its frame on which the pilot mounts, and it's fairly thick. After the pilot and pony truck has been removed, clamp the extension in a vise, cover the rest of the loco, whether it's all in one assembly or stripped back to the frame, with a cloth, then use a coarse-cut mill file to remove material from the top of the frame. It might help to scribe a reference line around the edges of the frame extension to aid in keeping it level and to show the height desired. Don't remove too much material to the point where it weakens the frame.
Of course, once you get the pilot where you want it, you'll need to modify the running boards at their front ends. This is a little more work, especially on a finished (painted) loco, but not impossible. I'd suggest removing them completely, going back only far enough that the feedwater heater pump doesn't need to be moved. Whatever distance that may be, duplicate it on the other side of the smokebox, too. To add a new section of lowered running board, mark the smokebox side with a line (both sides, of course) that's level with the extreme top of the pilot steps: this represents the bottom face of the new running board extension. Below these lines, mark and centrepunch for holes to be drilled of a suitable size for the insertion of fairly heavy brass wire - minimum .030" diameter. Once drilled, the top edge of the circumference of the holes should just touch the marked line. The front holes should be drilled just aft of where the top rear of where the pilot steps will be, and the rear holes a little bit forward of where the front edge of the old running board ends. The holes should be at least 1/4" deep and, because you'll be working low on the boiler casting, don't worry about keeping the holes level with the "ground": it's most important that the entry point be where you've marked it. Once the wire's been inserted into the holes, the protruding ends can be bent into a level position. Cut two short pieces of running board from sheet brass, preferably of a thickness similar to the stock running boards - you can use a razor saw or cut-off disc for this. They'll possibly need to be wider than the stock running boards, as they'll be sitting lower on the curve of the boiler and therefore extend farther inboard.
When you have all the parts fabricated, clean them using fine sandpaper, then apply flux and tin the protruding ends of the wire and the underside of the new running board extensions. Place the wires into their proper holes in the smokebox, adjusting as required to level them to the ground, then set the running boards in place and sweat them to the wires.
After everything has cooled sufficiently, brush a little lacquer thinner on the soldered joints to dissolve any remaining flux, then wick-up the excess with a paper towel. Next, apply some ca to the wires where they enter the boiler casting - this will be drawn-in and should keep them in place. If you've been careful, the main painting required will be the new parts, plus any touch-up where the original finish may have been nicked or scratched.
As you say, this may not be something you want to tackle right away, but it's quite do-able and I have a feeling that it will gnaw at the back of your mind until you correct it.
Wayne
As I mentioned elsewhere, Gus, you did a great job on this loco. You may be able to lower the pilot and all that's attached to it fairly easily if it can be easily removed. If I recall correctly, that loco has an extension of its frame on which the pilot mounts, and it's fairly thick. After the pilot and pony truck has been removed, clamp the extension in a vise, cover the rest of the loco, whether it's all in one assembly or stripped back to the frame, with a cloth, then use a coarse-cut mill file to remove material from the top of the frame. It might help to scribe a reference line around the edges of the frame extension to aid in keeping it level and to show the height desired. Don't remove too much material to the point where it weakens the frame.
Of course, once you get the pilot where you want it, you'll need to modify the running boards at their front ends. This is a little more work, especially on a finished (painted) loco, but not impossible. I'd suggest removing them completely, going back only far enough that the feedwater heater pump doesn't need to be moved. Whatever distance that may be, duplicate it on the other side of the smokebox, too. To add a new section of lowered running board, mark the smokebox side with a line (both sides, of course) that's level with the extreme top of the pilot steps: this represents the bottom face of the new running board extension. Below these lines, mark and centrepunch for holes to be drilled of a suitable size for the insertion of fairly heavy brass wire - minimum .030" diameter. Once drilled, the top edge of the circumference of the holes should just touch the marked line. The front holes should be drilled just aft of where the top rear of where the pilot steps will be, and the rear holes a little bit forward of where the front edge of the old running board ends. The holes should be at least 1/4" deep and, because you'll be working low on the boiler casting, don't worry about keeping the holes level with the "ground": it's most important that the entry point be where you've marked it. Once the wire's been inserted into the holes, the protruding ends can be bent into a level position. Cut two short pieces of running board from sheet brass, preferably of a thickness similar to the stock running boards - you can use a razor saw or cut-off disc for this. They'll possibly need to be wider than the stock running boards, as they'll be sitting lower on the curve of the boiler and therefore extend farther inboard.
When you have all the parts fabricated, clean them using fine sandpaper, then apply flux and tin the protruding ends of the wire and the underside of the new running board extensions. Place the wires into their proper holes in the smokebox, adjusting as required to level them to the ground, then set the running boards in place and sweat them to the wires.
After everything has cooled sufficiently, brush a little lacquer thinner on the soldered joints to dissolve any remaining flux, then wick-up the excess with a paper towel. Next, apply some ca to the wires where they enter the boiler casting - this will be drawn-in and should keep them in place. If you've been careful, the main painting required will be the new parts, plus any touch-up where the original finish may have been nicked or scratched.
As you say, this may not be something you want to tackle right away, but it's quite do-able and I have a feeling that it will gnaw at the back of your mind until you correct it.
Wayne