11-26-2012, 09:39 PM
Rob:
The gap has to be well stabilized. If the track is pre-fab, it may hold the curve. Flex track will need spiking.
I did one where I soldered a bit of PCB (an old tie) under the gap and only cut down to the copper.
Fill the gap with something solid -- not a blob of glue. Plastic strip or a toothpick and maybe down into a hole in the roadbed. Carve to the profile of the rail.
A Dremel will give you an angled cut unless you have an extension shaft. The Hobby shop should have some plastic devices that go over the rails to hold them in place while you cut.
The gap has to be well stabilized. If the track is pre-fab, it may hold the curve. Flex track will need spiking.
I did one where I soldered a bit of PCB (an old tie) under the gap and only cut down to the copper.
Fill the gap with something solid -- not a blob of glue. Plastic strip or a toothpick and maybe down into a hole in the roadbed. Carve to the profile of the rail.
A Dremel will give you an angled cut unless you have an extension shaft. The Hobby shop should have some plastic devices that go over the rails to hold them in place while you cut.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.