12-03-2008, 08:08 PM
...for Accurail cars. I'm not sure if these will apply to all Accurail cars, but they work for the various 40' boxcars, in all styles.
If you don't use the Accumate couplers supplied with these kits, you'll find that the coupler pockets are not quite deep enough to accommodate the bronze centering spring used with Kadee couplers:
Attaching the coupler cover snugly will crush or distort the protruding parts shown, resulting in poor coupler performance. The solution is to build-up the sides of the coupler pocket, using strips of Evergreen .010"x.020" styrene, as illustrated:
I cut the strips a little longer than necessary, then trim them to length after the cement has hardened.
Another area that can be improved is the weight. Some folks glue them in, using solvent cements which continue to "work" after the car is in service, eventually resulting in deformed (and sometimes un-useable) floors. Silicone sealant will work for a while, but, eventually, the bond will give way, especially if the car is stored in its box, laying on its side. My solution is to hold the weights in place, using commercially-available strip styrene.
Since the weights are .080" thick, .080"x.080" strip works well. First, ensure that the weight is flat by attempting to rock it, with each side up in-turn, on a flat surface. Straighten as required. Next, centre the weight side-to-side on the floor:
Now, add short lengths of strip, as shown, "trapping" the weight in place ( the ends of the car will prevent any movement lengthwise):
Use more of the same strip, cemented in place with solvent cement, as shown. I clamp it until the cement has set:
For some cars, such as reefers and single sheathed boxcars, the floor is not wide enough to allow the method used above. For these, simply cement the short pieces in place as shown below. Make sure that they're .080" below the ledge upon which the floor sits:
When the cement had dried, drop the weight in position, as shown, then snap the floor in place:
Wayne
If you don't use the Accumate couplers supplied with these kits, you'll find that the coupler pockets are not quite deep enough to accommodate the bronze centering spring used with Kadee couplers:
Attaching the coupler cover snugly will crush or distort the protruding parts shown, resulting in poor coupler performance. The solution is to build-up the sides of the coupler pocket, using strips of Evergreen .010"x.020" styrene, as illustrated:
I cut the strips a little longer than necessary, then trim them to length after the cement has hardened.
Another area that can be improved is the weight. Some folks glue them in, using solvent cements which continue to "work" after the car is in service, eventually resulting in deformed (and sometimes un-useable) floors. Silicone sealant will work for a while, but, eventually, the bond will give way, especially if the car is stored in its box, laying on its side. My solution is to hold the weights in place, using commercially-available strip styrene.
Since the weights are .080" thick, .080"x.080" strip works well. First, ensure that the weight is flat by attempting to rock it, with each side up in-turn, on a flat surface. Straighten as required. Next, centre the weight side-to-side on the floor:
Now, add short lengths of strip, as shown, "trapping" the weight in place ( the ends of the car will prevent any movement lengthwise):
Use more of the same strip, cemented in place with solvent cement, as shown. I clamp it until the cement has set:
For some cars, such as reefers and single sheathed boxcars, the floor is not wide enough to allow the method used above. For these, simply cement the short pieces in place as shown below. Make sure that they're .080" below the ledge upon which the floor sits:
When the cement had dried, drop the weight in position, as shown, then snap the floor in place:
Wayne