09-19-2010, 08:16 PM
Tetters,
Glad to hear you got the install done and it sounds good. The next one is always easier.... unless it's a Proto SW8.
If you look at one of these units with factory sound, you'll see they have a custom chassis, with the speaker mounted in the fuel tank. That's a lot of milling for the average joe.
I just did two of these for a client (and of course I forgot to take pictures!). What I wound up doing (and the results are worth it) was using the entire cab as the speaker enclosure, and using the Tsunami Atlas board. Take the weight off the front of the chassis (you'll need the space for the capacitor), and cut out the centre section of the cab floor. Use the Soundtraxx 3/4" speaker baffle kit to mount the speaker over the cab floor (making sure it sits high enough to clear the rear gear tower - do as I say, not as I did
). Wire the headlamps to the F5 and F6 1.5 v outputs, and re-map the headlight and backup light to those outputs.
Depending on how the motor sits in the chassis, you may need to file it down a bit in a couple of places, just to clear the chips that sit on the decoder board... just keep the shop-vac running very close to where you're filing and you won't have any problems with metal filings in the motor or mechanism.
When you're ready to put it all back together, use RC airplane canopy glue or white glue to seal the windows into the cab, and the cab floor into the cab. This will make a big difference in terms of sound quality and volume.
Glad to hear you got the install done and it sounds good. The next one is always easier.... unless it's a Proto SW8.
If you look at one of these units with factory sound, you'll see they have a custom chassis, with the speaker mounted in the fuel tank. That's a lot of milling for the average joe.
I just did two of these for a client (and of course I forgot to take pictures!). What I wound up doing (and the results are worth it) was using the entire cab as the speaker enclosure, and using the Tsunami Atlas board. Take the weight off the front of the chassis (you'll need the space for the capacitor), and cut out the centre section of the cab floor. Use the Soundtraxx 3/4" speaker baffle kit to mount the speaker over the cab floor (making sure it sits high enough to clear the rear gear tower - do as I say, not as I did
). Wire the headlamps to the F5 and F6 1.5 v outputs, and re-map the headlight and backup light to those outputs.Depending on how the motor sits in the chassis, you may need to file it down a bit in a couple of places, just to clear the chips that sit on the decoder board... just keep the shop-vac running very close to where you're filing and you won't have any problems with metal filings in the motor or mechanism.
When you're ready to put it all back together, use RC airplane canopy glue or white glue to seal the windows into the cab, and the cab floor into the cab. This will make a big difference in terms of sound quality and volume.