08-15-2010, 07:59 AM
"Thanks for the reply Sumpter, and you did talk real slow so I could understand but...
I thought that if I wired the two output wires from the block detector ( The "ground" and the Logic +") into the same connections from where the replaced IR detectors wires had been I would have a functioning system
The answer is no. Could I have possibly fried the block detector? "
If the block detector ground is connected to the signal system ground, and likewise plus to plus, the signal system should respond to the changes in the block detector.
"I cannot detect any current coming from the two output wires of the block detector, only a resistance. Should I ?
Is this correct? "
Only resistance, when not in the system.
if you're getting only resistance across those wires, connected to the system, and powered up ?....... :oops:
"Would/could the system used by the signals to turn on with IR, the same as with the block detector's method? "
Look at it this way....Both the IR, and the block detector, are "remotely operated switches".
In the case of the IR, the finger, is light. in the case of the block detector, it is current drawn by something on the tracks.
The best way of testing the block detector is to hook it up to the system, and monitor the voltage, across the wires where they connect to the system, with empty track, and then with a loco. If there is no change? make sure the polarity is correct, and if that's OK, then put the IR in and check voltages with, and without light. If there is still no change, the problem is in the system, not the "sensors". ( or both sensors are defective )
Confusing all and sundry now I s'pose. Sorry for being a fat head.
"Maybe there is an input logic + system that connects to the signals, to accept the output logic+ of the block detector to make them work? "
I have been given an NCE Power Pro block detector to use as a detector for a "RR crossing and signal system which I had bought at some "dodgy" stall at a train show a while back. "
"That", is "your system"......and may be your problem. Did that system work, with the IR ?
A quick check of the system can be done with a single diode ( just about any will work ). With the system on,and the sensor removed, touch the diode leads to the connector where the sensor had been, and note what the systems reaction is, then reverse the diode and see if any change occurs. You should get a "block occupied" indication, on one of the two attempts
Most diodes have a dark band at one end, that is the " + " end. It might have the schematic symbol for a diode printed on it, the "solid triangle" is the " + " end.
"You can give up on me if you like.. "
Not yet...
I thought that if I wired the two output wires from the block detector ( The "ground" and the Logic +") into the same connections from where the replaced IR detectors wires had been I would have a functioning system
The answer is no. Could I have possibly fried the block detector? "
If the block detector ground is connected to the signal system ground, and likewise plus to plus, the signal system should respond to the changes in the block detector.
"I cannot detect any current coming from the two output wires of the block detector, only a resistance. Should I ?
Is this correct? "
Only resistance, when not in the system.
if you're getting only resistance across those wires, connected to the system, and powered up ?....... :oops:
"Would/could the system used by the signals to turn on with IR, the same as with the block detector's method? "
Look at it this way....Both the IR, and the block detector, are "remotely operated switches".
In the case of the IR, the finger, is light. in the case of the block detector, it is current drawn by something on the tracks.
The best way of testing the block detector is to hook it up to the system, and monitor the voltage, across the wires where they connect to the system, with empty track, and then with a loco. If there is no change? make sure the polarity is correct, and if that's OK, then put the IR in and check voltages with, and without light. If there is still no change, the problem is in the system, not the "sensors". ( or both sensors are defective )
Confusing all and sundry now I s'pose. Sorry for being a fat head.
"Maybe there is an input logic + system that connects to the signals, to accept the output logic+ of the block detector to make them work? "
I have been given an NCE Power Pro block detector to use as a detector for a "RR crossing and signal system which I had bought at some "dodgy" stall at a train show a while back. "
"That", is "your system"......and may be your problem. Did that system work, with the IR ?
A quick check of the system can be done with a single diode ( just about any will work ). With the system on,and the sensor removed, touch the diode leads to the connector where the sensor had been, and note what the systems reaction is, then reverse the diode and see if any change occurs. You should get a "block occupied" indication, on one of the two attempts
Most diodes have a dark band at one end, that is the " + " end. It might have the schematic symbol for a diode printed on it, the "solid triangle" is the " + " end.
"You can give up on me if you like.. "
Not yet...
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!