10-19-2010, 09:04 PM
P5se Camelback Wrote:I'll take your speaker suggestion under advisement ... It sounds like it might be a winner ... I'm wondering, though, about the concept of supposedly better Bass response by bouncing the sound waves off the track/roadbed ... we used to do that with the self-contained, battery-powered sound systems of the time. They were produced by Miniatronics, or something like that, if my failing memory still works at all.
I am very interested in what is behind your suggestion of the use of TSU-AT1000 decoder rather than the TSU-1000, though ... what is the theory that supports that decoder choice?
And by all means, I will have ALL other work completed - decoder, speaker, all lights (test fit,) cab glazing (test fit) etcetera - prior to applying the first granule of finely ground pigment suspended in a liquid atomizing vehicle! This is not my first "disassemble, paint, reassemble" project. Among other things done for hobby shop customers on an "outside the store" custom basis to earn a few more bucks a month, like building craftsman kits and small scenic modules to "plant" them on, was carrying on a custom painting service, painting more than a couple dozen brass steam locomotives, several in multi-color paint schemes. I am familiar with the "order of operations."
It has been a couple of days since I have been involved it the process though, so I will be proceeding at a slowed, methodical pace.
But I do thank you for your considered advice.
First, the closer your ear is to the speaker the better the sound and volume. A 16 mm X 35 mm speaker should fit just fine. The At board cost less- $80.00
It is easier to wire- you will not have to splice wire for the pickup wires- just solder to the board-less wires-cleaner install (IMO). The board is thinner so you have more room to work with. I have many DCC sound installs under my belt, but these are just my ideas, from experience.