Heavy Electric Modular Group
#14
And so the electrification begins!

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This is the first pole, though it was a little disappointing. The real problem is that my soldering iron tip is finally done, and I don't have anymore replacements. Unfortunately, the tips were special order from Radio-shack, and I don't know if I can get replacements. As a result, while this pole is OK, it came out a little more sloppy than I would have liked. Hopefully I can clean it up a little. When the major soldering work is done. I'll add the grab irons, angle braces, insulators, and other details.


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Then again, a new tool now and then isn't necessarily a bad thing, and if I'm going to be doing this much soldering, I better get a good one! I'm definitely going to refer to Schraddel's thread here and the brass crane he is building.

In any event, I did do my homework. Learning from my previous experiences, everything was planned out in detail before I began construction. all necessary holes an dimples were cut into the poles as I went, and so each piece of brass stock was ready for assembly when I was done with it. I also used new information I researched to make the pole dimensions more accurate, particularly concerning the size and configuration of the signal and transmission arms. They are matched to PRR diagrams.

The catenary poles around North Elizabeth are of the "wire cross-span" type, with the exception of the signal bridge, but this span is not on this "module", only the two spans adjacent to the Hand Place Overpass. Fortunately, these spans are identical to each other, and so one drawing will do all 4 poles.

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The main concerns I have are the rigidity of a wire cross span, and the distance between poles. Many HO models have "Strong" pantographs and severely deflecting the wire could pose appearance and operational problems. In theory, both issues should be easily remedied by reducing the upward force of the pantographs on the wire.

This however is its own problem, as this is going to be part of a modular club. We're trying to reduce the amount of modifications we need to make to have all the trains be compatible, but my gut feeling is that most HO scale electric locomotives and cars were not designed to seriously operate under catenary, and many of them (like the new proto Metroliner) have a ridiculous amount of upward force.

Following the advice of Andy Rubbo (his layout was featured in Great Model Railroads a few years back), I'll try to solve this problem using dental rubber bands. Some pantotraphs are trickier than others to rebuild, but nothing is unattainable here.


The next problem will be developing the catenary profile. In this case, the catenary wire itself is mounted onto the Hand Place overpass as if it were a catenary bridge. This reduces some of the deflection concerns, but introduces a different issue. I need to adjust the profile of the catenary wire itself to fit. The natural "curve" of the wire is interrupted by the overpass, and all three wires (Messenger, auxiliary, and contact/trolley) are all essentially horizontal.

In order for this to look natural, I need to have the bridge be in place, or at least the catenary supports, so I can precisely assemble the wire in this area.

I'm thinking I'm going to make a "skeleton bridge" of large brass angle pieces, which will structurally represent the Hand Place overpass. Ideally, this brass structure will be rigid and able to support the catenary, as well as being "out of the way" enough for me to build the model of the bride around it, concealing it.

Or I can just "simulate" the support, and not actually try to build any real catenary support into the bridge, but this give the wire less of an anchor.

In any event, I know that I can at least get the poles and cross spans completed before the show. If I have to just put up "regular" wire, that won't be so bad, I can re-do the messenger wire to match the profile later.

Just gotta get a new iron tonight!
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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