Posts: 709
Threads: 35
Joined: Jun 2010
Gary: 95% of the benchwork is glued and nailed together with my brad gun. The handful of places with screws where because the spots are roughed in and may change. Generally speaking they are for the corners which may have to be repositioned in order to provide enough room for scenery and what not. Also all the Benchwork is screwed together in sections and screwed to the wall in the event I move I can more easily remove it.
Posts: 2,966
Threads: 158
Joined: Dec 2008
That cinder cone in the corner of your backdrop looks great!
--
Kevin
Check out my Shapeways creations!
3-d printed items in HO/HOn3 and more!
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s-model-train-detail-parts">https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s ... tail-parts</a><!-- m -->
Posts: 709
Threads: 35
Joined: Jun 2010
Kevin: Thanks about the cinder cone, it is know as Pilot Butte and is a view point in Bend .
Here is an update...
Posts: 1,229
Threads: 23
Joined: Dec 2008
Ah the gritty remnants of progress! Can't wait to see trains run...on your layout and mine!
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
Posts: 709
Threads: 35
Joined: Jun 2010
A few photos of the layout in progress...I have been hanging lights and making a giant mess in the train room. I am spending this weekend cleaning up the room so I can get things ready to start laying track.
More stuff on the website:
http://www.oregontrunk.blogspot.com/
Posts: 1,229
Threads: 23
Joined: Dec 2008
Aha - I thought there was a difference! How did you wire the lights?
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
Posts: 709
Threads: 35
Joined: Jun 2010
Galen,
With the breaker off....
I used flex between the fixtures and secured two fixtures together per the instructions.
I cut it into the existing wiring for hte lights, which is convinetly on the other side of the unfinished basement wall.
Posts: 1,229
Threads: 23
Joined: Dec 2008
Quote:With the breaker off....
Looks very nice!
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
Posts: 3,683
Threads: 118
Joined: Jan 2009
Nice and bright. Looking good.
Posts: 854
Threads: 52
Joined: Nov 2009
Just curious, what are you using as your minimum curve radius?
I find it a bit of a struggle to use a curve that looks acceptable, operates smoothly, and fits in a small space. I've used some 27" radius curves, which run great, but take up quite a lot of space, I need to find the 'sweet spot' so to speak between operations and looks :-)
Koos
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
Posts: 335
Threads: 27
Joined: Dec 2008
torikoos Wrote:I find it a bit of a struggle to use a curve that looks acceptable, operates smoothly, and fits in a small space. I've used some 27" radius curves, which run great, but take up quite a lot of space, I need to find the 'sweet spot' so to speak between operations and looks :-)
Koos
Koos, are you easing your curves? You can get away with sharper curves that still look good with easements.
Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,966
Threads: 158
Joined: Dec 2008
I can't wait to see some scenery, and some trains running through that scenery.
--
Kevin
Check out my Shapeways creations!
3-d printed items in HO/HOn3 and more!
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s-model-train-detail-parts">https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s ... tail-parts</a><!-- m -->
Posts: 854
Threads: 52
Joined: Nov 2009
Fluesheet Wrote:torikoos Wrote:I find it a bit of a struggle to use a curve that looks acceptable, operates smoothly, and fits in a small space. I've used some 27" radius curves, which run great, but take up quite a lot of space, I need to find the 'sweet spot' so to speak between operations and looks :-)
Koos
Koos, are you easing your curves? You can get away with sharper curves that still look good with easements.
Hi Matt, yes I've used easements. While most of my current rolling stock are no longer than 53' , and my diesel fleet are mostly 4 axle locos, I do want to make my track work suitable for longer rolling stock, and perhaps the odd steam loco. Just so that it's not a problem if I change era, or have visiting power from a friend or so. :-)
So I'm just looking for a general opinion really, what is the minimum curve people have good experiences with in regards to a balance between operations and looks?
Koos
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
Posts: 1,229
Threads: 23
Joined: Dec 2008
I don't want to hijack Greg's thread, but I've decided to use 20" min. radius (with easements) for my 20's-30's steam era backwoods branch line, just because I will predominantly use short equipment. However, as radii get smaller, easements become EVEN MORE important. After seeing them in action and most recently seeing a clinic demonstration about them, I think they are essential on almost any layout.
Greg? What do you use?
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
Posts: 709
Threads: 35
Joined: Jun 2010
I struggled with the same issue when designing my crurves. Being as I have some brass I wanted to run and I had to put some curves in where they do not exist on the prototype I made all my curves as broad as would fit the benchwork. I also used easment which helps diguise the fact that the curves or so large. I think my minimum for the M/L is around 30" and the largest is around 36" I understand what you mean about sweet spot as I had many revisions to my plan and when I actually placed the cork went with what looked right vs. what I have actually drawn.