Benchwork questions

[eightyeightfan1]

Kevin one trick you might use is to build your bench work as a "kit" where all of the pieces are designed and cut outside of the basement, then you just carry the pieces down and bolt them together in the basement. The problem with having a restriction in your stairwell that limits the size of a part of the bench work that can be carried downstairs while the actual bench work in the basement is not so restricted is that some complicated track that you might not want to straddle a joint may have to straddle the joint if you need to carry the completed bench down the stairs. If you want to use dimensional lumber, the modular club that I belong to has found that poplar is a relatively inexpensive and light weight hardwood that is more dimensionally stable than the typical pine, fir or what Home Depot calls "whitewood" whatever that is.

Thats how I've been doing my benchwork. Since my layout is in the attic, and Better-Half hates having sawdust dragged though the house, I measure the dimensions of what I need, go out to the garage, cut, and put together the section. Then I take it apart, drag all the bits and pieces up to the attic and reassemble it.
Lot of work, but keeps the "Train room"(if you can call it that) and the layout from being covered in sawdust.

[KevinKrey]

The "kit" idea is pretty much what Ive been doin, just that Im building the sections right there in the basement instead of dragging them around. It works good and I guess ill just do it that way again, since it seemed to work so well last time. One thing I might change is that on the fronts of the layout, I might use a 1x4 instead of a 2x4 to keep it looking cleaner.

[Russ Bellinis]

There is probably no good reason to use 2x4 lumber anywhere on an ho scale layout. You can use 2x2 for legs and the rest of the bench work framing does not need to be bigger than 1x3 or 1x4. In fact a 1x3 or 1x4 perimeter frame with 1x2 cross members will give plenty of strength.

[KevinKrey]

There is probably no good reason to use 2x4 lumber anywhere on an ho scale layout. You can use 2x2 for legs and the rest of the bench work framing does not need to be bigger than 1x3 or 1x4. In fact a 1x3 or 1x4 perimeter frame with 1x2 cross members will give plenty of strength.

That was kinda my thinking, the 2x4's made the previous layout really heavy. But I have all the 2x4s left over and think I could almost build the whole layout without buyig anything. Ill have to see what I have when I start laying everything out.

[Russ Bellinis]

Do you have a table saw? You could rip the 2x4's into 2x2's, or rip them the other way into 1x4's. If you have enough 2x4's there is no reason not to use them, but if you don't rip them down to smaller sized lumber, the bench work will be heavy. You may also find that you have difficulty locating under table switch mechanisms because a 2x4 will take up a lot more space than a 1x4.

[foulrift]

Kevin-when I built my layout I had two standards for the benchwork-light and portable. Although mine is small 2'x8' I used 1x4's for the framework and 1/4" plywood for the top. Although mine has no legs right now (it sits on top of my dresser) it is still light enough to move around.
Bob

[KevinKrey]

So tonight I was at menards, and found some 1x4 scrap in a value bin. As a turned around I noticed 1x3 furring strips for 85 cents per 8' board. At that price, im gonna try something new this time. lol I bought enough to get a good start, so Ill post progress as I make it.

[huffman60]

I'm Going to Be building an Around the wall first time layout. Any thoughts to ripping 1/2 or 3/4 plywood in 3" strips for benchwork ?

[eightyeightfan1]

I use 1" X 2" for the framework, but I do rip 3/4" thick plywood to a 4" width for subroadbed.
So I don't see why not.

[doctorwayne]

So tonight I was at menards, and found some 1x4 scrap in a value bin. As a turned around I noticed 1x3 furring strips for 85 cents per 8' board. At that price, im gonna try something new this time. lol I bought enough to get a good start, so Ill post progress as I make it.

I hope that your furring strips are better than what I've seen around here - I would consider most of it kindling in "longer-than-wood-stove-lengths".

I'm Going to Be building an Around the wall first time layout. Any thoughts to ripping 1/2 or 3/4 plywood in 3" strips for benchwork ?

Some folks prefer ripped plywood strips for their superior stability against warping. The main drawback that I've heard about is that it's more difficult to get a good strong bond when applying screws into the edges of the plies, as they'll sometimes de-laminate around the screw. I'd go with 3/4" if using that method of construction.

Wayne

[huffman60]

Wayne: Thank You, I've already cut 3/4 strips and plan to make 2x2 corner bolcks. Open to all advice

[doctorwayne]

Corner blocks are a good solution to the splitting problem.

Wayne

[Steamtrains]

My framework is built around 1x4's with 1x4 risers and cleats and 5/8" & 3/4" ply for subroadbed. I also use 1x4 legs, but have some 2x4's anchored to the floor in critical areas which need to be "rock steady". The grid work is anchored to the walls using "L" cleats. This layout isn't going anywhere.....

[MasonJar]

Re: Splitting plywood.

1) Corner blocks as suggested, so no screws have to go ing the "end grain" of the ply.

2) Predrill and countersink for proper wood screws, not drywall screws. Drywall screws have a different profile under the head to pull the paper covering of drywall down without tearing. However, this creates a wedge action that can split wood, as most countersink bits have a different profile.

3) Use minimal screws, but lots of good carpernters/yellow glue. And clamps!


Andrew

[tetters]

I used dimensional lumber for most of the frame work for my layout. However for those who have been following my layout thread, one will note I had a small disaster take place when a sizable 2 x 8 section of the layout decided to break on me. I replaced this section with some 3/4 ply ripped into 3" strips. I measured and cut all the wood outside on my table saw and assembled the pieces in my basement almost in place. I made my legs and angle bracing from the same 3" ply strips. I must say that to me personally it is a far superior method of building frame work then the dimensional lumber I used in other sections. As for the splitting problem pre-drilling and countersinking your screw holes will prevent it. Using glue at the joints also creates a nice solid secure joint, personally however I would not rely solely on the glue to support any kind of mechanical load. I was going to take it one step further and notch the joints with a stacked dado blade however was a little pressed for time and the weather was not co-operating.

The only suggestion I would make with regards to using the metal studs for frame work is to wear gloves. That stuff when cut can have some reeeeeally nasty sharp edges which can take your fingers apart in no time.

I don't know if I'd use PVC pipe. PVC pipe can be quite brittle and can easily crack or break if under any form of mechanical load. The fact that it is typically used to transport fluids (i.e. waste water) under very little to no pressure at all tells me it is not a good material choice for a structure as large as bench work. For the smaller patio furniture items where the distances are kept short I'm sure the material is fine. However I think that if you wanted to build benchwork with it, you's seriously need to over engineering it by adding additional bracing and plenty of extra support. All of which may interfere with mechanisms and wiring under the layout.

That's just my two cents.