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I started modifying a German BR 211 by Arnold (typical starter engine, N gauge) into a Hungarian M 44 (no N gauge models available, some small-series brass in H0....love the bright colours). The models are close enough lengthwise and so on to allow for a conversion. The biggest obstacle seems to be the size of the frame on the original model. The frame is all-steel and every free bit of the body is taken up by it. Now, I thought, shaving off a few millimetres here and there shouldn't be a problem, after all the engine and transmission will fit inside perfectly after the little modifications.
Right. Took apart the beast and on to shaving off the millimetres. I discovered the obvious: steel is pretty damn hard. I started cutting it with a dremel (clone) and a engraving point. It does work, more or less, but it is painstakingly slow. Next idea is to get a saw and try that (will that work?) or are there suitable bits for the dremeloid to cut instead of file?
My second approach would be to rebuild the body from brass and styrene. A bit more challenging, but at least it would be correctly sized. If I can't find a good solution for cutting the steel block I'll probably get me a few sheets of brass after the weekend..
I am making some progress pictures as I work, will post some eventually.
-norm
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Do you have access to a bench grinder?
-Dave
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A bench grinder...I remember my dad having had one long ago. Maybe it still is somewhere. Will ask. So those would eliminate excess material without trouble then?
-norm
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I would say fairly easily. I am surprised no one else has chimed in an opinion....
-Dave
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Also do you have any pics yet? I do not know what those types of locomotives look like.
-Dave
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The M44: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11155855@N03/1473120232">http://www.flickr.com/photos/11155855@N03/1473120232</a><!-- m -->
I assume, therefore, that the starting engine is a West German BR 211: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DB_Class_V_100">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DB_Class_V_100</a><!-- m --> rather than the East German electric of the same designation: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.harald-johns.com/SAMMLUNG/Fotos/2035_BR%20211%20035-1.JPG">http://www.harald-johns.com/SAMMLUNG/Fo ... 0035-1.JPG</a><!-- m -->
Fan of late and early Conrail... also 40s-50s PRR, 70s ATSF, BN and SP, 70s-80s eastern CN, pre-merger-era UP, heavy electric operations in general, dieselized narrow gauge, era 3/4 DB and DR, EFVM and Brazilian railroads in general... too many to list!
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Triplex: Correct and correct.
To add to the confusion regarding the BR 211 or V 100, there is not only a DB Class V 100 but also a DR (East German) V 100 which is disturbingly similar: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Datei:Baureihe_201_609-5_1.jpg&filetimestamp=20090311131640">http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?tit ... 0311131640</a><!-- m --> (Confused me at first until I started looking closely!)
I brainstormed a bit more about using brass and getting the size just right instead of more or less correct appeals to me.
-norm
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Here the frame of the diesel - I indicated the parts that need to be removed with red. After more than one hour of dremelizing about half of one of the smaller bits was gone. At that point I started wondering whether it could be done more efficiently...
The frame only needs to hold the engine and the bogies, really, and have some space for a pair of LEDs, so it shouldn't be that challenging to scratchbuild that. I guess... Well, nothing stops me from trying both approaches! Double the fun, right?
And just to show what end result I'm aiming for: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://users.atw.hu/limitbahn/mozdonyok/m44/406/M44%20406_1.JPG">http://users.atw.hu/limitbahn/mozdonyok ... 0406_1.JPG</a><!-- m -->
Haha...yea right. (that model would be the H0 brass model I mentioned..)
-norm
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That M44 is neat looking!
Dave
-Dave
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Well, I got a strip of brass yesterday and have done some work on it, got a few nice holes in it now.
Went on to analyzing the contents of the engine, right, so it it simple, but eventually the entire wiring will be overhauled. Now I came across one electronic component I didn't immediately recognise, apparently it is a capacitor according to the manual. It has 16V and 22[unreadable symbol, possible Faradt?] written on it. Am I correct that this should work like a...flywheel...for the engine and could performance be improved if I could fit in a larger capacitor? 220 microfaradt should fit...(Installing a flywheel would be great, but I really doubt whether one will fit inside)
-norm
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From where are you trying to remove the material? If it's a flat surface (top, bottom, or sides), a mill file should do the job just fine.
Wayne
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You mean a hand-powered file there, Wayne?
Oh, and more questions regarding rewiring the engine (the brass rebuild option...this is real fun, by the way): While I would prefer to leave the engine in a state which allows it to be removed in case it needs to be replaced or throughly cleaned, I need to attach a piece of brass directly onto it - is it safe to solder directly onto the engine housing or are there parts which might break when doing this? Given that it can overheat, for one... Also there are some plastic parts on the engine, I am not sure what their function is, might want to find out and possibly remove them altogether as they might bite the dust when soldering nearby... I just found out that they are rather essential. Moving right along...
-norm
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Doh! I just now noticed the red lines on your photograph. If those denote the areas to be removed, use a hacksaw where appropriate, then finish to size with the mill file. By the way, I seriously doubt that your loco's frame is steel - it appears to be a zinc or zamac casting, and should cut and file fairly easily with hand tools.
tv_man Wrote:You mean a hand-powered file there, Wayne?
Oh, and more questions regarding rewiring the engine (the brass rebuild option...this is real fun, by the way): While I would prefer to leave the engine in a state which allows it to be removed in case it needs to be replaced or throughly cleaned, I need to attach a piece of brass directly onto it - is it safe to solder directly onto the engine housing or are there parts which might break when doing this? Given that it can overheat, for one... Also there are some plastic parts on the engine, I am not sure what their function is, might want to find out and possibly remove them altogether as they might bite the dust when soldering nearby... I just found out that they are rather essential. Moving right along...
I assume that by the highlighted words in the quote above you are referring to the motor which powers the model - such an electrically-powered device is always called a motor, while "engine" can refer to the locomotive itself, or to the device, other than a "motor", used to propel it. For example, a diesel engine powers most real locomotives in use today, driving an alternator or generator which provides electricity for the electric motors which actual propel the locomotive.
Wayne
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Yes, I'm talking about the motor. English not being my first language, I hope my English isn't too confusing.
And I'll see what simpler tools can do. Thinking of it, steel would be overkill for a model train. Just a little... 
-norm
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tv_man Wrote:Yes, I'm talking about the motor. English not being my first language, I hope my English isn't too confusing.
Not a problem, tv_man.  English is not the easiest language to learn and there are some terms that can easily be mistaken as interchangeable ones, such as motor and engine.
Model railroaders more or less originated (I think) the use of the word "turnout" to denote a track switch (the moveable points on either a real or model railroad), as it was too easy to confuse a switch for tracks with a switch for electricity.  I think that most real railroaders call them either switches or points, but not turnouts.
Wayne
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