Layout Wiring Tips and Tricks?

[Trucklover]

Hi guys,

My buddy is going to start laying some track down on the layout i designed for him (Steel Mill Layout). He has the benchwork built and bought some rolled cork, glued it down and now is ready for trackwork. He has the plan printed out in 1:1 scale (done on a plotter).

He's asked me to post on the forums asking for help on how to correctly wire a layout. Hes doing DCC, and there are 2 reverse loops in the plan. We know where to isolate the points and were going to be using 2 of the Digitrax AR-1's (one for each loop). Basically he is wanting to know the correct way to wire the layout, isolate the gaps correctly. Questions like the length and gauge of the feeder wires and the gauge of the bus wire. How often (every 12" or so?) do you put feeders in?

Any and all help is going to be appreciated, this is going to be a learning experience for both him and I, since i have never done this either lol. Were looking for some expert advise and how-to's here, and i know there are many guys here who know what there talking about and know how to do it right the first time around

Thanks in advance!!

[nachoman]

I can't give you too much specific advice - but will give you general advice. First, you will hear a range of suggestions between "hook two wires to the track" and something that is extreme overkill. What you need to do for this particular layout will be determined by how many trains will be run at one time and how large the layout is. The "bus wire" system seems to be in vogue with DCC, using 14 or 16 gauge wires for the bus. This is probably overkill for most home layouts, but those wire gauges are readily available, and the difference in cost between 18 gauge and 14 gauge wire is not that much for the relatively small small layouts most of us have. It is the "better safe than sorry" advice. 14 gauge wire works great for those of us who have some leftover from a house wiring project, but it is probably extreme overkill.

One thing that is mandatory is either soldering every rail joint, or providing a set of feeders to every section of rail that isn't soldered. You absolutely cannot rely on the rail joiners to conduct power. If the layout is in a climate controlled room, you can probably solder every rail joint. If there are wide changes in temperature or humidity, you may want to make sure there are rail joints at least every 4-5 feet.

Another thing I would strongly suggest is powering the turnout frogs. I have had plenty of layouts with unpowered frogs, but powered frogs makes things run much smoother. No more hesitation over the turnouts.

[BR60103]

Josh:
How big is the layout? Are you using flextrack/lay-your-own or sectional?
A layout should get at least one feeder on each loop (if you have a circle of doubletrack). Ideally, there should be a feeder for each length of rail (2 3-foot lengths soldered together are one length).
If you are running single locos, then a short feeder of light wire every so often should be enough. If you are running 5-unit diesels of old Athearn or Varney or brass, then something heavier is needed, or multiple wires. If you will be running a couple of 5-unit diesels (2 Super Chiefs passing) you may want to run a separate bus for each mainline, and make them separate power districts.
I agree with nachoman that house wiring is probably overkill, but the ease of getting it and the usually cheap price will be worth it.

Check your connections. We had a layout and one whole section was getting erratic feed. It turned out that the bus had come undone between two sections and the current was all going through one loose rail joiner which made bad contact when a train passed over it.

[TrainNut]

Josh,
I know you had a thread for this a while back but I can't seem to find it. Can you repost a quick picture of the track plan?

[Trucklover]

Hey guys,

here is a picture of the plan. I dont have alot of time right now, just got back from my girlfriends house. We celebrated her dads birthday, and well lets just say im pretty tired after that party LOL

And just to answer Andrews quick question about Flex or Sectional track. He will be using all Flex Track for the layout with Atlas and Walthers switches.

[Green_Elite_Cab]

THE BEST ADVICE IS TO STAY ORDERLY. do not let your wiring look like mine. keep everything sorted out, and orderly, so that tracking issues is not a problem. my layout wiring looks like a spider web, which is not good.


I wouldn't be to terrified with rail joiners. If you track work is solid, and you use GOOD, brand new joiners, they should be fine. the ones we use at my club and on my layout are long and thin, and we can hardly press them onto the rails. Those joiners have not failed me yet. Soldering the rails together is fine until you have to take something apart, then its a mess.

Not that you should have feeders all over the layout, but my experiences with soldering rail have been ugly. save it for when the layout is more established.

[tetters]

Rail Joiners - Micro Engineering makes some reeeeeeally tight fitting joiners. I use these but cut them in half and still get good mechanical alignment. I've tried Altas and Peco and thought that they both looked to big and awkward looking. The ME ones, once painted practically disappear.

There are tons of good resources on the web that can help you. I'm sure you've seen Allan Gartner's site but it is worth reposting,

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/