Empire Coal Corp. - Kitbash
#31
I once built the pit head building for a coal mine, from the Jack Work article in MR.
I don't have that model any longer..........coal dust explosion.


( Ok, the model was damaged in a move, and not worth the effort to repair, so............
small firecracker. ) 357 :o Confusedhock: Icon_twisted
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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#32
Okay, how the heck am I supposed to paint these windows? Nothing sticks!

Here is a pic of the tipple with a bit of assembly:


[Image: ECC-10.png]
Tony
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#33
Have you washed the window castings? Most plastic kits, including rolling stock, structures, etc. will be easier to paint, especially with water-based paints, if they're first washed. In addition to any mould release agent still on the plastic, oils from your skin, through handling, will be deposited on the surface, making paint adhesion less than ideal. Liquid dish detergent in warm water will remove this - rinse thoroughly when done, or you'll have a problem with the paint not adhering to the detergent film. Eek Wink Another option would be to dip small parts in isopropyl alcohol, although I'd keep the cleaning alcohol separate from the stuff for paint thinning or other uses.

Wayne
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#34
Yeah Wayne, I've tried all the washing methods you listed. I've tried to drybrush the paint on in addition to applying it directly with a toothpick....it just won't stay on there. I'm afraid if I use any more paint, I'll be painting the whole thing instead of just the muttons.
Tony
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#35
You might try a primer - one of those Krylon spray bombs designed for plastic might do it. I have successfully used these paints as both primer and "finished" colour. You can either paint the desired colour over top, or simply weather over an appropriate colour.

Avoid the temptation to try to cover in a single coat. Many (3-4) thin coats are better. The first one or two will look especially bad and splotchy, but wait until they dry before adding more.

Andrew
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#36
Tony, are the windows clear plastic, with the raised muntins cast onto the outside surface? If so, you could try taping a piece of fine sandpaper (1000 grit wet/dry or finer would be good) face-up on on flat surface. Lay each window pane face-down on the sandpaper, and with light pressure, drag it once across the sandpaper. This should give the raised areas enough "tooth" to hold the paint without removing the raised detail.
Another option would be to skip the sandpaper and instead use a lacquer-based paint such as Floquil, applied with a light touch using a brush.

Wayne
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#37
How about a Sharpie brand paint pen?

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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