doctorwayne's Spring Bash Challenge II...

[Gary S]

I was wondering if you were ever going to get back to this project!

[Tom]

Who makes those trucks? Tahoe Model Works?

[Ralph]

Deadline or no I want to see how this turns out after all of this careful work.

Ralph

[Puddlejumper]

Ooh yeah, good question! I have a need for several pairs of those plain bearing caboose trucks.

[Sumpter250]

Who ever makes the trucks, it looks like the leaf springs were an aftermarket part added. This, so far, is an excellent tutorial, and a great bash project! The removable floor is a great idea! "Glass" replacement, or if lighting is added, makes floor removal a necessity, and when the end railings/ladders are done right, that can become impossible without sectioning the floor. Can't wait to see this in paint.

[doctorwayne]

Who makes those trucks? Tahoe Model Works?

Wow! Sharp eyes, Tom. Yes, the trucks for this caboose are from Tahoe Model Works - I picked up a couple pair last year when I visited English's Model Railroad Supply (along with a set of Dalman Two-Level freight trucks). They are nicely done and the leaf spring detail is moulded right into the sideframe.
I'll be using the same trucks on a couple of my yet-to-be-built scratchbuilt cabooses (coming soon, I hope), along with some from TrueLine Trains, as shown below:
   

...and various styles (Bettendorf and Andrews) of Kadee trucks, with leaf spring detail from Precision Scale:
   

The PSC leaf springs are phosphor bronze, and often "take a set" in a too-compressed mode during installation. They're meant to replace the Kadee coil springs, but I've found that once installed, they need to be expanded by the judicious use of a twisting motion applied with the tip of an X-Acto #11 blade. I then re-install the Kadee coil springs, which help to keep the leaf ones in place (if you look closely, you can see them in the photo above). It also helps if you ballast the cars fairly generously - I like about 6 or 7 ounces.

Wayne

[doctorwayne]

As promised, some ladder construction.
The first task is to construct the stiles - I used Detail Associates .010"x.030" flat brass bar, forming it on the jig shown below using a small pair of smooth-jawed pliers.
   


The first task is to determine how much material is required for a single stile. I measured a partially-used length of brass bar, then formed the curve near the end of it - I started the curve farther in from the end than was probably necessary, but better to waste a little material on a single test piece than to screw-up a batch of 20 or 24 for all the cabooses that need to be built. After the test piece was done, I cut it from the strip using an X-Acto knife (working on a hard surface, such as a piece of glass, a moderate downward pressure will "snick" it right off, nice and clean with little or no clean-up required). Holding it up to the caboose, I determined approximately how much needed to be trimmed from both the top and bottom, then trimmed accordingly, taking care to save the cut-off ends. Re-measuring the remaining strip that I started with, plus the two short cut-offs gave me the total amount of material left, and subtracting that from the original length showed that 14' HO was required for each stile. Due to the slight change in construction of the roofwalk, about 13' should be plenty for this particular caboose.
For two ladders, four stiles are required, or, more aptly put, two pairs. The simple jig used yields a decent approximation of the part needed, but there can be minor variations between pieces, especially in the curved section. I made four, then compared them to get two near-matching pairs, tweaking them as required until both in each pair were identical - they may or may not be identical to the pair on the opposite end, but they'll be far enough apart that comparisons will be unlikely.

After the pairs were formed and then cleaned using 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, they were tinned (I used an 80 watt iron only because it has a chisel tip, whereas my 25 watt iron has a pencil tip), then pinned to the forming jig with the tinned surfaces facing. A quick touch of the iron joined them as one.
I used a divider to scribe one side of each pair lengthwise along its mid-point, then, after setting it to the proper rung spacing, "walked" it along the lines, pressing slightly at each point where a rung was to be located.
Using a #79 drill bit in my pin vise, the holes for the rungs were easily drilled through the soft brass. Here they are, still soldered together as pairs, with the holes all drilled:
   

After another quick touch of the hot iron, the pieces were separated (keep them together as pairs, though, and each pair separate from the other), then all of the solder was removed using the sandpaper. If necessary, use the drill bit to clean out any holes that may be blocked with solder, then use fine sandpaper to remove all oxidation, dirt, and fingerprints from both sides of each piece.
Next, place the stiles in the soldering jig (previously shown HERE), with the bottom ends butted against the stop block. Make sure that the stiles are tight against the spacer blocks and that they're firmly held in place by the keeper pieces and clothes pegs. I used a couple of straight pins, as shown below, to prevent bowing the stiles inward during soldering.
Clean a length of .012" brass wire by dragging it through a folded piece of fine sandpaper, then, using your X-Acto knife, snick off the required number of rungs - make them longer than required, as shown, then use tweezers to install them in the stiles.
I used an X-Acto blade to apply a small amount of resin flux on the outside of the stiles wherever a rung poked through, then, using a 25 watt pencil iron with a "wet" tip, touched each joint until the solder flowed into it.
   

After removing the ladders from the jig, I used a cut-off disk in my Dremel to lop-off the excess rung material outside of the stiles (don't trim too close!) then used appropriately-sized needle files to finish the clean-up. After a quick dip in some lacquer thinner to remove any flux residue, the ladders were set aside 'til later.
   

Wayne

[Puddlejumper]

Wayne- That is very impressive work. Hopefully I will be able to imitate your skills when I work on my cabins this fall. (unlikey though! )

Very nice work indeed!

Dave

[doctorwayne]

Thanks, Dave, but I was also one who thought I "couldn't do it". What changed that was the Sylvan caboose shown a few photos back (the orange CNR one). My good friend Mister Nutbar, who's somewhat interested in the Canadian National asked if I would build one for him and offered to buy a second one, for my own use. I'd never built this type of craftsman-style resin kit before, so the whole project was a learning experience. Included were some very nicely-done photo etched stiles for the end ladders, and instructions on how to turn them into ladders. The soldering jig shown was originally made for that construction, although it's a somewhat improved version of what's outlined in the Sylvan instructions.
For the ladder construction as detailed above, the most difficult part is bending the stiles - all the rest is simple soldering, cutting, and drilling - take your time and be neat and you should do fine. I'm considering a modified version of the ladders for at least some of the ones that need to be built, with the stiles straight and ending at the end of the roof, and curved handholds made from brass wire added to the tops, much like those added to the top of the stock tender ladder on the Bachmann loco below:
[album]156[/album]

Wayne

[doctorwayne]

Still pluggin' away at this as time permits. I made some railings for the right side of the platforms (as viewed from the end), and decided to add splash guards. I used my X-Acto knife to cut the paired parts from some .004" brass shimstock. The vertical scribed line is the separation point between the two pieces, with the paired horizontal lines denoting the mounting straps - these will be formed around the horizontal part of the handrail, and soldered in place.
   

You'll also notice that there's a railing on the left side (the lower one in the above photo) - it's a temporary one to help determine the correct height for drilling a hole in the outboard stile of the ladder in order to support a stub handrail: this permits removal of the horizontal portion of the handrail which would otherwise interfere with the spacing of the ladder rungs.

I didn't take too many construction photos of the platforms, as I kept thinking of new stuff to add, not pausing to take pictures. Here's a couple of views of the completed platforms, the first of which more clearly shows the stub handrail on the left side:
   

   

Also visible are the end sill details, including the grabirons, cut lever, handbrake rocker pivot, and airhose. I also added the brake bleeder pipe up the left face of the splash guard, with the control and vent above the handrail. Other details include the retainer valve and pipe to the left of the door on the car's end, the roofwalk-end support hardware, and the locator pins for the bottom edge of the splash guard, which can also be seen. While the end safety gate (above the coupler) is currently operable, I intend to cement its latch (on the brake wheel housing) in place - I don't want to have to try soldering those pivot tabs back into place on the right handrail after the car has been painted.

Here's another view, showing the same details, along with what appeared to be a fuel tank on the original model, probably for oil for the heating stove. Since this caboose will use coal for heat, I shaved away the tank details and added a few bits to convert it into a tool box.
   

Also added was a smokejack for the stove and some window framing for the end windows of the bays - these had none, making installation of "glass" difficult.

The ladders and stub railings currently remain unattached, and will be added as the final step of assembly, after painting and lettering has been completed. With the split floor design, the platforms can been installed permanently (after painting), then the painted ladders can also be cemented in place, making for a sturdy assembly. I plan to airbrush the platforms, underframe and ladders, and brush paint the caboose body and any contrasting-colour details. Installation of the pre-assembled windows will be from the outside, with window shades pre-installed in the body before the windows are added.
I'm also going to add the screen doors pictured previously - they'll likely be in the latched-open position, but can't be installed until the caboose body has received its final clear coat, as I don't want to clog the screens. Here they are, painted and assembled but not yet cut from the screening material, and with the double hinges and doorknobs yet to be installed.
   

To make them, the screening material was simply "sandwiched" between two pre-painted .005" door panels, each of which had received a light application of lacquer thinner. The softened surfaces allowed the screen to embed itself, and the two mating surfaces to touch, bonding them together.

Here are the easy-to-make window shades which I'll be using. I use similar ones for all my passenger cars and structures, too.
Construction is very simple, using .010" or .015" sheet styrene for the shade, and strip styrene of an appropriate thickness for the gluing strip. First, cut strips of sheet styrene to various widths suitable for the windows on which the shades will be used. I make a variety of widths (which will be the length of the finished shade), then choose whichever ones I want for each window. Next, I use lacquer thinner to cement a strip of styrene along one edge, as shown:
   

I generally use .020"x.040", although because of the depth of the doublehung windows on the caboose, I'll be adding a second strip of similar material to the one shown. The purpose of the gluing strip is to prevent the shade from touching the window "glass", which would draw the cement into the contact area by capillary action, thereby marring the styrene "glass". For the caboose, the gluing strip will be cemented to the interior wall above the window (allowing for further variation in the length which shows from the outside). Because all joints are styrene-to-styrene, a liquid solvent-type cement can be used, ensuring a strong and permanent bond, with none of the "fogging" which often occurs when ca is used. The styrene construction also prevents curling with age.
After the gluing strip has been cemented in place, use masking tape to cover its exposed surface, then airbrush both sides and the exposed long edge of the strip of shade material, using whatever colour you choose. Once dry, use your X-Acto to cut off widths suitable for the windows on which they'll be installed.
Here are some in use:
   

   

   

   

I need to make some weights for this caboose, then wash it in preparation for painting. The deadline is looming.

Wayne

[Tom]

WOW! Those end rails and details are FANTASTIC! This is making me itch to get out a long ago stalled out project to kitbash a pair of Western Pacific Steel Baywindow cabs that my dad scratch built in 1:1 scale in 1981. One for me, one for him for his desk. The end rails have always been the stalling point for me. This just may be the kick in the butt I need to get motivated.

Who makes the backup valve you used? I have never seen that detail featured on a plastic model that I can remember. And those splash plates just ROCK.

[Gary S]

DocWayne, you are just sick!!! That is some superb detail and I am sitting here in amazement at the things you can accomplish. The ladders and end rails and all the detail. Amazing. And I always enjoy the photos of your work, and thank you for posting them!

Who makes the backup valve you used? I have never seen that detail featured on a plastic model that I can remember.

Tom, it wouldn't surprise me if Wayne machined a mold and then cast the valve himself....

[nachoman]

Good work, wayne. I think your modeling could teach us all a thing or two. My window shades for my passenger car were made from a piece of quality resume paper that came out of my printer wrong . BTW, I think more people should pay attention to your lacquer thinner glue technique. I have been using it lately, and have learned how to make clean, strong joints.

[doctorwayne]

Thanks for the kind words, guys.
Tom, those valves came out of my "Brake Gear" parts drawer, but I don't recall their true origin, and, to be honest, I wasn't even sure if that's what they were. You'll notice that one's black, the other red, so two different kits were involved. Each had a largish mounting lug on what is now the bottom, and the actuating handle was originally the same length as the exhaust pipe/vent. I can't think of any cars on the layout that they could have come from, as I had only the two - I was originally going to make them up using brass wire and some styrene rod, but stumbled across them while looking for something else. (It remains to be seen if I'll include this detail on the soon-to-be-started wooden caboose fleet, though - somehow, making twenty or so kinda sucks the enjoyment factor pretty dry.)

As for plastic models, TrueLine offers this feature on their r-t-r cabooses, although I based mine on the Sylvan Models kit of the same car.
   

Of course, the TrueLine ones are an integral part of the Delrin one-piece end railing/ladder assembly, and the centre gate doesn't work, either.

The little pivot brackets for the gates were an afterthought, as my original intention was to just solder the gates to the right-hand railing assembly. I had a short piece of .010"x.018 brass bar that I tried to use when I first decided to make the gates work, but putting a .0145" hole through such a narrow strip didn't leave much material along the edges, and I had trouble keeping the drill bit centred on the strip. I finally opted for .010"x.030" strip, even though it's oversize, and I don't think that it looks too gross. I'm thinking of doing most of the ironwork in black, so it'll be even less noticeable.

Gary, casting those parts is not a bad idea, although I'm probably too cheap (and lazy) to do so. I mean, once those 10 or 12 cabooses are done, I'll have no need for more.

Kevin, it's nice to hear that the lacquer thinner is working well for you, too. Again, it was an effort to save modelling money that drove me to try it originally, and I discovered it to be a great (and cheap) thinner for Floquil and other similar paints, too. Your window shades look great - what originally prompted me to try the styrene ones was frustration trying to install paper ones in wood structures. Of course, in those days, acetate was the window material most readily available, and it's not noted for its longevity. I also got fed-up with using ca anywhere near windows, due to the fogging that often occurs. I've been building models long enough to have seen a lot of adhesives that were considered permanent come apart, so I'm always looking for ways to make construction more permanent and easier. Probably, with some creative painting, one could achieve enough of a light/shadow effect to simulate curtains on sheet styrene, too.

Wayne

[Puddlejumper]

WOW! Those end rails and details are FANTASTIC!

I have to agree! I really look forward to seeing this cabin completed! I wasn't even aware that bay window cabins were used in that early of an era.

This is making me itch to get out a long ago stalled out project to kitbash a pair of Western Pacific Steel Baywindow cabs that my dad scratch built in 1:1 scale in 1981.

That is a BIG cabin... I take it your dad worked for WP?