Fast Tracks Points Tip
#1
All,

I've been having trouble with filing the points on the point form tool in that I tend to make the point end too thin, which makes it curl and / or require a lot of peeling / trimming of structurally insufficient metal.

I've recently had luck with pre-cutting an angle on the side that will be filed with a Dremel cut off tool - this seems to allow me to file down to a sharp point without working the metal too hard and causing the above. I also get to an effective point faster. Your mileage may vary, of course... Smile

   
Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio
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#2
I have looked at your description of the problem several times over the past week. I viewed the video on using their tools to fabricate a turnout this morning. Just now, while reading your post again and looking at the posted photo, i began to wonder ... :?:

If the rail is developing a "curl," it's possible that too much heat is being generated in the filing process. Try this ...

File only only one direction - pushing away from you - that's the only way the file cuts material anyway. Lift the file and bring it back and then push away against the rail again, but not at 60 mph ... 15 or 20 mph generates less heat. Hopefully that will help your "curling" problem (rail ... not stones on ice.) Icon_lol Take your time ... this is not a race! Icon_lol

I've been hand laying track for a bunch of years ... i just file the rails and solder them as I get there, making sure I have a good fit between rails to be soldered. I hold the rail being filed in a jeweler's hand vise ... seems to work O.K. for me. On the other hand, I'd be at a loss if you were to ask, "What number is that frog!" I couldn't tell you. It is what it needs to be to get to where it is going in the smoothest, most gentle turn possible in that location. Could be #5.5 ... could be #8.2 ... I don't know.

Keep spikin' there, buddy! Hand laid track is enviable because many modelers think it's wildly difficult. 8-) Let 'em think that ... or not. 357

It's not that tough if you take your time aand pay attention to fit and gauge. (I use three gauges and slide them along as I go. Swap the middle one around to opposite of the outside two, especially on curves! Icon_idea Thumbsup

biL
biL

Lehigh Susquehanna & Western 

"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." ~~Abraham Lincoln
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#3
Fluesheet Wrote:All,

I've been having trouble with filing the points on the point form tool in that I tend to make the point end too thin, which makes it curl and / or require a lot of peeling / trimming of structurally insufficient metal.

I've recently had luck with pre-cutting an angle on the side that will be filed with a Dremel cut off tool - this seems to allow me to file down to a sharp point without working the metal too hard and causing the above. I also get to an effective point faster. Your mileage may vary, of course... Smile

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I have never used fast tracks products, but I assume one would have the same problem when filing points without the point form tool? I just clamp my points in a vise, and file by hand. I have attributed any "curling" due to filing too far (not stopping often enough to check my work). Of course, I am using code 55 rail and all it takes is a few swipes from a file Icon_lol . If I had money and had many more turnouts to build, I may consider one of these types of tools:

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-belt-and-5-inch-disc-combination-sander-34951.html">http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-bel ... 34951.html</a><!-- m -->

But I don't think that would be kind to code 55 rail. Glad you found a solution to your problem Cheers
--
Kevin
Check out my Shapeways creations!
3-d printed items in HO/HOn3 and more!
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s-model-train-detail-parts">https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s ... tail-parts</a><!-- m -->
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#4
P5se Camelback Wrote:File only only one direction - pushing away from you - that's the only way the file cuts material anyway. Lift the file and bring it back and then push away against the rail again, but not at 60 mph ... 15 or 20 mph generates less heat. Hopefully that will help your "curling" problem (rail ... not stones on ice.) Icon_lol Take your time ... this is not a race! Icon_lol

Hi biL! Thanks for the feedback. My work is pretty much as you describe. I think my problem is I am filing with a bias toward the point end of the rail; the result is that it gets *too* thin, and perhaps there is then some heat build up. Imagine pulling a ribbon along the edge of a scissors - it's kind of like that.

I'm not certain why the angled cut has given me better luck - it may be as simple as giving me a "wear line" for a visual reference. I've believe I've also started filing flatter, taking some of that excessive work off the thinnest portion of the rail.

P5se Camelback Wrote:I've been hand laying track for a bunch of years ... i just file the rails and solder them as I get there, making sure I have a good fit between rails to be soldered. I hold the rail being filed in a jeweler's hand vise ... seems to work O.K. for me. On the other hand, I'd be at a loss if you were to ask, "What number is that frog!" I couldn't tell you. It is what it needs to be to get to where it is going in the smoothest, most gentle turn possible in that location. Could be #5.5 ... could be #8.2 ... I don't know.

I may get there! I recently built two 19 degree crossings using only a template and dress pins to create a "fixture" for the many, many points required (see <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=2574&start=60">viewtopic.php?f=46&t=2574&start=60</a><!-- l -->). Lots of gauge work like you described and solder took care of the rest (well, ok, some jewelers file work after the fact - but I'm learning!)

Matt
Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio
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#5
nachoman Wrote:I have never used fast tracks products, but I assume one would have the same problem when filing points without the point form tool? I just clamp my points in a vise, and file by hand. I have attributed any "curling" due to filing too far (not stopping often enough to check my work). Glad you found a solution to your problem Cheers

I think you hit the nail on the head there, nachoman (filing too far). Re: having the same problem without a point form tool, I actually had the *opposite* happen in that case when making the crossing described above - but I attribute that to the rail not having enough support when holding it by hand - it bends away from the filing force.

Speaking of filing by hand, it's amazing how much you can file your skin without damage - even someone with baby soft hands like myself!
Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio
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#6
Fluesheet Wrote:............

I'm not certain why the angled cut has given me better luck.....

Matt

Hi Matt

Have only just come across this.

Inadvertently, you've adopted prototype practice, which is probably why it works Thumbsup Have a look at Iain Rice's book on creating 4mm scale track (or even the free extract of his Proto 87 Maine layout available on the Model railroader web site); he advocates this practice and tidies up the joint with the splice rail (the second rail forming the 'vee') after the two have been soldered (sounds technical but is quite straightforward).

Jonte
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#7
The only time I have encountered this problem is if I've had too much rail sticking out of the groove when filing the points. Typically, I make sure that the edge of the rail head closest to tool just barely exits the opening where the rail sticks out. This eliminates excess material sticking out and a lot of filing.

Cutting an angle in the rail is a new one though. I'll have to try it as the club has enlisted me to construct another Cd 100 three way for our staging yard.
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#8
jonte Wrote:Inadvertently, you've adopted prototype practice, which is probably why it works Thumbsup Have a look at Iain Rice's book on creating 4mm scale track (or even the free extract of his Proto 87 Maine layout available on the Model railroader web site);

Thanks jonte - I'll give it a look - see. I've been busy adding joint bars to my shelf layout, but have avoided the turnouts for the most part until I better understand what details belong where.

tetters Wrote:The only time I have encountered this problem is if I've had too much rail sticking out of the groove when filing the points. Typically, I make sure that the edge of the rail head closest to tool just barely exits the opening where the rail sticks out.

This is good advice, and something you only need to deviate from once before you figure out that you don't want to deviate from it! The angled cut takes even more of the filing away. It could simply be a placebo for me, but if it works, it works! Smile
Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio
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