Gondolas of Lake Terminal RR.

[Gary S]

HO scale rivets?

A M A Z I N G ! hock:

Seeing these types of things certainly helps me realize what is possible, and even though I may never rivet an HO scale brake rod to a brake lever, I can't help but think that my modeling will improve simply because I have seen what you are doing! The "impossible" just got a little smaller!

[Sumpter250]

HO scale rivets?

A M A Z I N G ! hock:

Seeing these types of things certainly helps me realize what is possible, and even though I may never rivet an HO scale brake rod to a brake lever, I can't help but think that my modeling will improve simply because I have seen what you are doing! The "impossible" just got a little smaller!

Once you see it, you know that it can be done. It becomes a more possible goal.
It's always a good day when new inspiration unfolds.

[cnw1961]

HO scale rivets?

A M A Z I N G ! hock:

Seeing these types of things certainly helps me realize what is possible, and even though I may never rivet an HO scale brake rod to a brake lever, I can't help but think that my modeling will improve simply because I have seen what you are doing! The "impossible" just got a little smaller!

Once you see it, you know that it can be done. It becomes a more possible goal.
It's always a good day when new inspiration unfolds.

Don’t say something like that! !t is scary! I am still cross eyed from adding details to my new engine and it is nothing compared to that!

Bernhard, your work and your skills are breathtaking. I am speechless .

[modelsof1900]

Thanks again for your honoring and admiration of my work however I think that this all is not witchery. I think it is a bit experience only and the result of a few failures also. That what I can do is to give a few more hints and ideas for better results of your own modeling jobs. Please write your questions and I will like to give you a few additional descriptions when I can it. What you should need is to invest a little bit of endurance.

Gary, relatively fine NBWs are available from Grandt Line, Walthers item 300-86045 – sold out in moment. I prefer in most cases brass NBW also when they are a bit more expansive.

Kurt, you should not be speechless. Let us write about the things and I would like to help with my ideas, with my technology, with my experiences.

Incidentally I have had a good day today. A small parcel arrived and it contained a small bottle with blackener for nickel silver material. And best of all – it works very well. I think that one of my biggest problem is solved. Pictures will follow.

[Gary S]

Gary, relatively fine NBWs are available from Grandt Line, Walthers item 300-86045 – sold out in moment. I prefer in most cases brass NBW also when they are a bit more expansive.

On the bridge I am currently modeling, your work inspired me to add the nbw details on the brackets that hold up the walkways. Here is a photo of the prototype and of what I am doing. This is an "in construction photo" and still needs paint. I'm not building the entire walkway bracket, only what can be seen from the aisle. It is tedious working with the little nbws, and drilling the tiny holes in the thin plastic used for the brackets can be frustrating, but the result should be worth it.

Real thing:



model:

[modelsof1900]

After a few other modeling jobs - repairing a few models for the Christmas time for friends - my gondola project come back to focus - unlasting.



Next steps are done; also the brake mechanics for handbrake are ready for mounting to the models. The brake elements below show that all connections to the lever are movable so that I can mount them without problems to each wished directions – and they would be movable also if the rod ends would not get a fixed position after mounting. The reason for flexibility is very simple. The clamps at end of the roads are made from short pieces of chrome-nickel tubes (medical canulas) and these are not solderable. So I must make a connection by small rivets – a very short wire only however with two small heads.



What I need for fixing the short chains are a few shackles and this time they are a bit smaller yet than these which I used a few times ago. I say each time that everyone can make these items also and all my work isn't a mystery, here I used thin phosphor-bronze wire with a dia of .010” (Tichy Trains) and I used only two fine flat-pliers for bending the wire. Ok, shackles are a bit small – and so I bent altogether five or six more which I never found after they were jumped off.



This is one of five complete brake mechanics before I mount them to the models. Last what I must do is to connect the short chain to main brake lever below in center of picture using one of shackles. Doing this I will need additionally a few hangers and brackets and I think that this will be a filigree work again. So the next pictures will need a few times.

[Sumpter250]

Your shackles interest me. Not only for the use you made them for, but also in model ship making. Could you possibly write a step by step procedure of how you built those so small, and so perfectly shaped.
My other question is, What level of magnification do you use to see what you are making? I use a 5X Optivisor, and still can't see details that small.

[Schraddel]

WOW!
Bernd you have still the abilities to make me astonished and surprised by the level of your skills. :o
It is very interesting for me to watch the progress of your projects.
How to do to make the shackles?

Greetings Lutz

[doctorwayne]

Outstanding work, Bernhard.

Wayne

[Puddlejumper]

Awe inspiring, to say the least.

[SP1]

You are nuts!

Seriously, since you dont have a layout... have you thought about building cars in O-Scale? With your skills you could burn down an awesome firework in said scale.

[modelsof1900]

First I would like to say thanks for all your friendly and honouring comments.

Second I have interchanged the first picture of my posting from Jan 26th. I hope that you can see a few more details more also when I did not all parts in right position. Alone this arranging will need a good time. The third pictures shows the correct position of all parts.

And third I will try to give a few answers to your questions.
- Because there will be an interest in my “shackle technology” I will write a new post whit a few pictures and remarks doing this. And after I hope to see your attempts doing the same?
- Jens, no, I can’t build my models in 0-scale, never!
0-scale is near double of H0-scale and there I must build absolutely exactly all details. Each row of rivets, each binder or bracket must be absolutely the same and it must be mounted in same row to others and the most difficult thing would be bent metal strips or wire – and than two, three or more in parallel positions! In 0-scale you will see each variance without eyeglasses; in H0-scale you will see such fine inaccurateness’ only when you will use a magnifying-glass. Yet another sample. I will use a wire of 0,25 mm (.010”) dia bending it like my shackles. The pliers will give the material a few pressure marks – however I can bend the wire with a light power. In O-scale I must use for same thing a double thick wire and I can bend it also – however I will need more power and so I must hold the material with a good more power by the pliers and I will have many times bigger and well visible marks on wire. For 0-scale modeling I must use many more tools and devices where I can do same in H0-scale by hands or using only simple pliers. I know that I see all my mistakes or inexactness making a few photo shots yet with a macro modus – and than I will replace a part by a new ones. However who will use a camera when I will present my models? If I should build in 0-scale than everyone will see the mistakes also without eyeglasses, I said it already.
This is the reason because I build in H0-scale – and second all my friends here in area are H0-modeler. Where should get my models their utilization?
- And last - I use a magnifying glass with a factor 3 which I can clamp to my eyeglasses – a very good solution because I can see also over the magnifying glass for a fast changover from enlargement to normal seeing and back.

Greetings ...

[Sumpter250]

I looked at your picture of the shackles, on the wire,............The smallest shackle I've ever been able to make, is 1.5 times the size of yours !!....and I haven't yet been able to make them that consistently, the same size !!
So ! It can be done, and I just have to learn, and do.
My ship models will be forever thankful for your inspiration.

[modelsof1900]

Until today I could not mount the brakes to the cars. Again additional parts must be mount inside to the frames and so I must prefer these small steps before I can mount the brake systems.



First I replaced a small part of the triple valves and I added dirt collectors. Here I must start to drill a hole using a 0.2 mm (or 0.008”) dia drill bit for inserting the connecting pipe to the train line, the smallest hole that I drilled ever.



And than I added retainer valve pipes – fixed by four small clamping pieces …



… and last the retainer valves have been mount, unfortunately a quite clumpy plastic part from a Tichy Trains brake set. Unfortunately I’m not lucky with these parts however PSC does offer these parts also in a plastic version only. Would they be better in their quality - PSC part #HO-3263?
Such small parts only – and I needed nearly two week for finishing all preparations.
Now I can start to mount the brakes at last!

Yet two remarks.
In picture you can see the first time colored models using a water-based acrylic paint and you see the very row surface of all the wood planks. I’m much affrighted how many details will be visible by such a macro-photography – viewing the models with out a magnifying-glass will show a very good impression without an unnatural look.
Second you will ask for position of retainer valve at the side wall. Ok, it is not the commonly position one – however look this specific car. It has lost its second upper end boards and so it was moved to the side wall according to the original cars. This is the reason also that you can see four holes at end of side wall boards where times before two additional brakes were mounted – times of new condition of the cars before the loads destroyed the end planks again and again and the end walls were reduced to single boards and fixed by two single brackets at end.
American railroad workers were very practice thinking peoples! And things these never would be accepted in Germany – changing a construction of a graduated engineer! (I worked as a railroad worker in Germany and so I know what I write.)

[Sumpter250]

" First I replaced a small part of the triple valves and I added dirt collectors. Here I must start to drill a hole using a 0.2 mm (or 0.008”) dia drill bit for inserting the connecting pipe to the train line, the smallest hole that I drilled ever. "
The smallest "readily availabe" drill bit I can find is a #80, 0.0135". So, the question is where does one find a 0.2 mm bit?
Is this possibly manufactured for Jewelers, or watchmakers?
For those who haven't figured it out yet, 0.008" in HO (.696" )is very close to 11/16" (.6875")( OK 3/4" ) in HO scale.
That, is a very small drill bit ! ..........Do they break easily ??

" In picture you can see the first time colored models using a water-based acrylic paint and you see the very row surface of all the wood planks. I’m much affrighted how many details will be visible by such a macro-photography ( " )
Actually, that wood surface looks quite realistic. We have a tendency to "over-exaggerate" wood grain, for normal viewing. I like the appearance of the wood parts in your models, even magnified as much as they are.