Quick weathering

[MLW]

This is my quick "how-to" to weathering.

Hopefully you may find this somewhat helpfull.

This is my method of quick and easy weathering. I find it harder to explain what i do, then to actually do it!
The key is to practice until the desire effect is achieve. In my own experience I have found that
“heavy weathering” was easier to do then subtle one. Your best bet is too take it slow, use reference
pictures from the real thing and don’t go overboard. Your skills will get much better with practice so
don’t be discouraged. There’s lot of information “out there” and some specialized forum such has
Model trains Weathered (<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.modeltrainsweathered.com">http://www.modeltrainsweathered.com</a><!-- m -->) to help you out. Be warned that
weathering is quite addictive. Most of the following can be found on my website.

Below I explain (or try to!) the following:

* The 5 minute weathering method
* Paint-Brush and Sponge method
* The Paint-Brush-Only method


Tools of the trade:

- Paint brush. From tiny to 1 ½ inches wide
- Cosmetic sponges
- Q-Tips
- Paper-towels
- A plastic lid, piece of cardboard, whatever will permit you to mix paint
to create the color needed.
- Reference picture

- Various water based and oil based paint (Burnt sienna, Raw Umber, Sand, Beige,
building brown, Dove Grey, Black, White, Leather)
- Rubbing alcohol: To diluted the paint. Water works well too.
- Weathering powder (Black, grey, rust)

Good Luck

MLW

[MLW]

The 5 minute weathering method

This is the simplest form of weathering that I used.

I used polyscale paint dissolved in a mix of rubbing alcohol and/or water. Roughly 40% paint to 60% water. I used a rag and a 1/2 inch paintbrush. I apply the paint mix with the paint brush to the entire side of the boxcar in a downward gentle motion. Wait about 3-4 minutes, and then wipe the car with a clean rag in an downward motion. Continue to remove the paint-mix until you have the desire effect. If you are not happy with the result spray the car with a mix rubbing alcohol and water to remove the paint.

This method takes about 5-6 minutes per car. Detailing such has applying various shades of rust on trucks, couplers etc. will take longer. The longer you leave the paint on the car, the darker it will look.

Here’s the result using sand, grimily black and steam black







Good Luck

MLW

[MLW]

Paint-Brush and Sponge method

I used water-based paint, oil-paint, paint brush and cosmetic sponges for rust effect.
The sponge is dabbed in oil paint and lightly applied to the car to create rust pits and pattern.

First I re-painted the boxcar white and sealed it with dullcoat.

I diluted water based paint (Burnt Sienna) with rubbing alcohol to create a "rust color" wash and apply it with a wide paintbrush.

Once dry I applied Burnt Sierra with a paint brush in a “dotted” manner, taking the paint brush in a bit of paint and tapping it (bristle down) on the car. Once dry I do the same thing with Raw Umber. Once everything is completely dry I take a wide paint brush that I dipped in water and lightly remove some of the paint leaving behind a nice rusty look.

Once completely dry I sealed everything with dullcoat. Next applied home made decals and sealed everything again.



Rust pits created with sponge:



Good Luck

MLW

[MLW]

The Paint-Brush-Only method


First, I re-painted the car using Tamya Haze Grey spray paint. Once dry I apply decals then seal everything with dullcoat.



Faded look

The next step is to create a faded look. To do so I used a paint brush and light color water based paint. I apply the greyish-white water-base paint diluted in water in a vertical motion using a wide paint brush. The paint is diluted to create a lighter color. I apply one light coat, let it dry completely and do it again until the "faded" look is satisfactory. Then I sealed everything up with dullcoat.




Rust streak


Next I apply a base color that all other will built on. Again it is better to apply many light coats then one too heavy. Using only the corner of the paint brush, I drag a mix of Burnt Sienna and Raw Umber diluted in a mix of rubbing alcohol and water in a downward motion. This is a very fine coat and line in a vertical motion. Once dry I apply another coat on top of it, slightly thinner and darker. Apply dark color over lighter one to increase the effect of depth. Use picture of the real thing as reference. Once satisfy sealed everything with dullcoat



.
.
.
Done..



Good Luck

MLW

[fsm1000]

You explain it so well and it looks so easy I might actually try it.
Most times I haven't got the guts to try this but I just might this time. Thanks a ton and your other pics are fantastic.
Great job and hard to believe it is so easy
Thanks again for sharing

[Herc Driver]

Thanks for posting a great tutorial - easy to replicate and easy to understand.

[Trucklover]

SWEET!! I absolutely LOVE the realistic results you get!! Thanks for posting this, ill definitely come back to this when i go to weather some more stuff

[RobL]

I love the results of the paint brush and sponge method... the result is incredible... it actually looks like real rust perforation... thanks for posting your tips and tricks... can't wait to try them!

--Rob.

[ocalicreek]

Masterful work, indeed! Who says you have to have an airbrush to make convincing weathering? You make it look easy, (and it is), but the real skill I see is in your ability to capture the look of prototypes we've all seen while waiting at grade crossings or out railfanning. Perhaps it's because, IMHO, the most important line of the tutorial is:

Your best bet is too take it slow, use reference
pictures from the real thing and don’t go overboard.

Real life is so...well...REAL! Great work and thanks for sharing your techniques.

Galen

[LynnB]

Good How To, hopefully I will find to try it this weekend. Are you just as brave weathering steam engines, I bet they'ed come out great.

[eightyeightfan1]

Like the "How Too".
Will have to try your method. I'm running out of "Rust-All", and they aren't making anymore. Something to do with the chemical composition being a carcinogenic.
So's going outside and getting a breath of fresh air........