Norfolk Southern are painted black...but which one?

[Charlie B]

Mark, as easy as fresh paint is to remove why don't you try to get away without primer. I have had very good luck with the black gloss from the dollar general, Marcal brand. Just try it to make sure it is compatible with the plastic in that locomotive. I haven't had any problems with what I have done, but you never can tell. I think you said you didn't use an air brush. That is the real answer, but the DG paint seens to be thin enough to apply very light wet coats. I use it at times so I don't have to mess with my air brush.
Charlie

[Herc Driver]

That's a great idea Charlie - thanks. I bought some Model Master spray paint in gloss black and medium grey (for a primer) yesterday and once I get the lower walkway and coupler housing areas clean of red paint, I'll be ready for the black coats. The logic is...I thought of using the Model Masters grey spray paint as a primer, then spraying the Model Masters high gloss black over the top. But since that grey isn't really a primer (it's just grey paint) wouldn't spraying two coats of high gloss black accomplish the same thing?

On the first attempt at building a high hood GP30, I sprayed black over the BNSF green and orange colors that existed on the Atlas GP30 shell - as well as the decals. The black covered the paint wonderfully, and without a primer coat. But the paint bubbled and curled the decals under the paint. Fortunately, I was able to salvage the unit by applying the Micro-Sol products to remove the bubbling...but on hindsight...I should have removed the old decals completely and sprayed a coat of black again.

Leraning from my past mistake ...I removed all the decals on this second GP30 attempt as well as the paint. So I'll have a clean shell body to spray. The only items that will still be colored in the original Burlington-red are the handrails, as they're molded in red.

So I'm really thinking of just trying to spray this model with the high gloss black and see how it goes. I do plan on using "canned" spray paint (but agree this is the perfect job to use an airbrush for) and feel pretty confident that I can get an even coat of black on. I've painted all but a few of my buildings with spray paint, as well as some weathering on cars and repainting of an engine, so I've got my "system" down. I usually warm the paint up in hot water first to help the paint atomize better, build a painting booth out of cardboard boxes, and use a trigger on the paint can to help hold and spray evenly. (The real trick will be to do the painting on a warm enough day with little or no wind.) I've got some absolutely tiny putty holes to fill (so small they can only be seen under the magnifying glass), the lower walkway to strip, then I'll be ready for the paint shop.

[Herc Driver]

Update...

I got the paint removed from the walkway and coupler housing areas. Interestingly enough, the actual walkway area was molded in red plastic. Not sure why...since the rest of the parts were all painted.

Just have to fill some microscopic holes in the putty, sand and paint. And since it's already getting dark, painting won't occur today unfortunately.

[Russ Bellinis]

When the manufacturer uses two colors of plastic to make a model, you need to use a primer coat over the entire model to get the finish coat to look right, The primer will eliminate the base colors showing through. I would use a gray or charcoal colored primer under the black.

[Charlie B]

I have never had to use a primer on anything (model)I have painted, but I have only painted with black, Brunswick green (PRR black ) or Tuscan red. I do use red oxide primer as box car red with a gloss coat over it to decal over. Then I spay everything with dull coat. I would imagine having to paint light colors over a dark plastic would require primer, but I always hated to apply any more paint than needed because of lost details. N gauge has to be really bad where a rivet could be a mere suggestion of a bump.
Charlie

[tomustang]

I've had good dealings with walmarts $1 brand of spray paints, their primer (grey) and flat black to be specific. It's sprays more like a mist which is better for smaller objects

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Let me tell you from expirience, Primers are almost NEVER worth it. the only time you need a primer is if you know you need to protect the shell.

Just strip the shell. Priming coats generally are painful, and they tend to fill in details (as does excessive paint).


You'll have to strip it anyway to get a good finish. I know, since if you think gloss black shows imperfections, try painting these chrome passenger cars. EVERY defect shows, and then reflects on itself, becoming twice as big. This paint actually requires a gloss black undercoat to shine correctly.

Look at the chrome of this car! You actually COULD shave yourself with that finish.

[Herc Driver]

Well...impatience did me in.

I couldn't wait till it was sunny and warm enough outside to paint and tried to paint the GP30 shell pieces inside a cool garage, and in not the best light.

This paint went on in a finer mist than I had planned (at least the pieces and paint were warm), so I ended up over-spraying without realizing it.

Now there's sure to be some extra paint pooled at the bottom of cab area.

Against my dejected judgement, I will let it dry and assess the amount of rework to be done tomorrow instead of just stripping off the paint tonight. I suppose there's a dim hope that with only a little sanding here and there, I can give a light spray and fix some of the problem areas. (Maybe luck will favor the idiot who just wouldn't wait for warmer weather and sunny skies. )

On the positive side, it sure came out high glossy black.

[Charlie B]

Mark, I did the same stupid thing the other day, I had a baggage car I wanted to paint. I washed the paint back off. Painting is for warm dry weather. I'll wait.
Charlie

[Herc Driver]

What was I thinking...oh yeah...I wasn't. I was blinded by..."wouldn't it be great to see how glossy that paint would be?!?" Instead of answering that voice in my head with a firm, "No...it's too cold and you know that," (and ignoring the other voices wondering who else we were talking to...) I squeezed the paint trigger and began pouring it on.

I can't see yet how bad the damage is...I'll take it to work with me tomorrow and let it sit in the truck to keep warm. Then when it's dried properly, I'll see what needs to be done. Best case, a little light sanding and a thin and quick coat to fix up the problem areas. Worst case, completely re-strip the black high gloss paint and wait for warmer weather.

[Steamtrains]

All who have done something similar to Mark's fiasco....Raise their hands...
(The whole stadium stands up and raises both arms..... :oops: )

[Tom]

Oh man, more times than I'd care to admit. So you're in good company!

[Charlie B]

Well Mark, you should be able to laugh at yourself by now, if not, laugh at me. I spent several years painting autos for a living..among many other jobs
Charlie

[Herc Driver]

Well the paint is dry. This is how things turned out. I appreciate everyone's support. (I humbly learned a lesson in patience and impatience.)

Notice the (I hope) improved location of the roof line. I really tried to correctly model that aspect of the high hood's feature. Once the bell assembly is attached (one just like the assembly that's on the first model attempt) I think this second attempt will have that "brooding" look that those high hoods are known for.

The only place you can see the over-spray is at the lower forward edge of the cab unit. (Mercifully it dried better than I had thought it would.) There's a dot of paint and a trail flow of extra paint at the bottom of the plastic cab on both sides. I'll try using 600 grit sand paper to file it down, then respray the front of the model one last time. Also, you can just barely make out the red plastic step color still visible. You can barely see that with your eyes, but the camera's long exposure and well lit room shows it plainly.

The couplers need installed of course, and the trucks were already weathered but will be cleaned up a bit since this unit is supposed to mimic a "new refurb" build.

Comments? Please...good and bad critique is appreciated.

Before...This model starting life as an Atlas low nose Burlington GP30 pictured with my first attempt at a high hood GP30 build...




After...with a new high nose and remodeled roof...All the wavy appearance of the second unit is just reflection from the white boards that line the layout's edge and various lights in the room. It isn't really that wavy...I just don't know how to photograph something that high gloss yet. It looks runny and wet, but it's really not.






Notice the subtle differences between the first and second attempt at getting that roof line right.

[Tom]

Hey Mark, studying the photos I came to one conclusion: That engine needs an entire second coat BADLY. (Sorry, you DID ask for good/bad critiques). The black if anything was too much in some places, too little in others, such as towards the top of the sides of the long hood. Some of that black paint is really thin and transparent in its layer. I personally feel that if you simply take down the pools of paint with fine grit sandpaper to get an even smooth finish (and it'll look rough, but that's ok), and then give the entire model a good, even second coat (in warmer weather! ), I think she'll come out very nicely really. With a little prep work, she'll look great, but don't fret, I think you really dodged a bullet last night and are actually off to a really decent start.