Norfolk Southern are painted black...but which one?

[Herc Driver]

Good eye Tom! You're right about the thin coat...again, something you can only barely see here on the layout, but the bright lights and camera shows it well. I think I'll take your advice for the light sanding and second coat. I'm not even sure I still want to go with this high-gloss look...because it really is glossy! My son thought the whole engine was still wet before he picked it up. I don't want this build to end up looking almost comically glossy...just "new" and factory fresh. So I might spray this with a light coat of Tamiya black, which to me is not a matte black, but also not a high gloss either. That might tone the whole look of the engine down a bit. I'm tempted to take some pictures using natural sunlight to see the differences (and possible rework areas) that the camera picks up. Under the lighting of this room, that engine has a wet and uber-glossy look.

That roof line...that's what I want to conquer. Getting that angle and starting point of the roof was what I really wanted to nail.

Thanks for the critique...it absolutely is appreciated!

[Green_Elite_Cab]

A second coat would have been fine in most cases, but because it puddled, I think you'd be better off stripping and starting over. Otherwise, you'll just get an uglier paint job that obscures your details. Sanding won't work, gloss black is as gloss as it gets. Its VERY sensitive paint.

Gloss black is the most intense a glossy finish can be (its literally the most glossy you can make a paint, according to the people who make my Alclad II paints).

Honestly herc driver, i think you should just strip it down, paint it engine black, and then paint it with a clear gloss finish.

Engine black is VERY dull by itself, but if you use Floquil Crystal cote, or a similar gloss finish, you'll get what you're looking for.

Thats how i painted these E44s (originally so that the decals would go on better. I've got to get around to weathering them!)

This picture looks dark, but that green color you can barely see on the flanks is the gloss reflecting. the ground cover and the boxcar behind it, just like in the photo of the NS engine. This may give you more what you're looking

[tomustang]

Judging from those newer pics it appears the high hood is protruding out too much

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Judging from those newer pics it appears the high hood is protruding out too much

Nah, the only difference is that the other one is not on the rails. the "new" locomotive is sitting on the rails, so it looks higher.

[Herc Driver]

I like the black shade (Color? Hue? Not sure what word is accurate there) of that CR electric. I'm trying to get a "new" shiny look without being over done. I'm thinking that high gloss black is over done and needs toned down a notch or two. To strip or not to strip the paint off...I'm still mulling that one over.

This second attempt engine does sit higher than my first attempt engine because I've removed the engine's motor, gearing, and metal conducting strips from the trucks/frame to make it a dummy engine. So it rests lower than the other engine which is still an intact and powered unit. I'm going to replace the metal conducting strips in the first one so it is the correct height.

Thanks again for all the input guys...once again I'm learning a lot and appreciate the advice.

[Tom]

If this one doesn't work out, then I'd advise doing the next one in flat black and then gloss coating it. That's the way I usually paint engines when I spray paint them in HO. I usually use Scalecoat II spray, but still, it's flat, and then gloss coat before decalling and then decide after decals whether i want gloss or flat paint and apply testors gloss or dull coat accordingly after decals. I wonder if you can strip gloss black spray paint?

[Green_Elite_Cab]

I like the black shade (Color? Hue? Not sure what word is accurate there) of that CR electric. I'm trying to get a "new" shiny look without being over done. I'm thinking that high gloss black is over done and needs toned down a notch or two. To strip or not to strip the paint off...I'm still mulling that one over.

Well, I think you'll have to strip just because of the uneven coating on the model shell. If it were a little thinner, and you had some parts where it didn't cover well, i'd say just paint another layer over it.

Since it puddled though, i don't think you have much of an option, unless you think you're ok with the paint being a little thick on the bottom edges.

The electrics were done with a base coat of Pollyscale engine black, with crystal-cote laquer over it.

If this one doesn't work out, then I'd advise doing the next one in flat black and then gloss coating it.

Exactly. that's what i did with those Conrail electrics.

I wonder if you can strip gloss black spray paint?

I think so, but i'd look up what the right stripper would be. 91% isopropyl alcohol does the trick most of the time.

[Herc Driver]

I took the original factory paint off with 91% Isopropyl alcohol and it worked well...and it will probably work on this engine again.

Overall, and the more I look at it compared to the other engines I have, it's overly glossy. So I might try to sand and respray the entire shell with a Tamiya black and if it doesn't cover and look right, strip the whole thing again. I like the "new engine shine" of Norfolk Southern diesels when they're first produced, so I wanted to capture that look on one engine...but by impatience...will have to wait till warmer temps to work on this again. (We've got snow falling now and it's about 20F degrees...and I'm guessing it's a bit too cold to be spray painting in the garage.)

Using a crystal coat lacquer is a good idea. I know the Tamiya black is a good color to use as the basic black (I've used it before on the other GP30 high hood, as well as other projects). So going with a lacquer over the black would produce a better result.

While I'm waiting for a warmer day (possibly later this week after the snow melts) maybe figuring out how to make an E44 would be a good "next project". I really like the look of those E44's on G.E.C.'s layout! Feel free to post more pictures of them...they're sure great to look at. (I've got both the Amtrak and PC black GG-1's from Kato on the way now...so an E44 sure would fit in well.)

[Green_Elite_Cab]

I'm fairly headstrong, but i think scratchbuilding one of these in any scale that will be a tough project,i don't think they make anything like it in N-scale. (even in HO, an E33 does not make as good a starting point as it looks).

You'll need a U25C or similar if they sell one, and you'll have to do quite a bit of chopping. I don't doubt that the basic shape can be had with styrene, but getting some of the details down might be tricky.

The only matching pantographs i know of are on the Bachmann E60CP, and i don't know how good they are. i would say scratch build the pantographs, but i just put myself through that madness, and it may be tricky to do in N-scale.


I say go for it, and see where you get. I'll have to dig out some paint diagrams and things i have for it.

[Herc Driver]

(I'm sitting here laughing at myself for the idiocy of my comment that I could even think about scratch building or bashing an E44 considering I just messed up my latest project. Where's that "smilies" of the little guy hitting himself in the face saying D'oh! )

But it occurred to me that maybe a good starting point for an E44 could be an Alco C628 or C630 to get that "narrow body" look. Maybe the new Kato U30C or the Trix U28 (?) I have sitting here could be a good shell starting point. There's nothing that I can think of off the top of my head to make that cab design though...hmmmm.

I'm itching to start striping/repainting this GP30 now and get it done, but there's no way with the temps being so low.

More to come!

[Green_Elite_Cab]

I would search just for a good frame. the Alcos wouldn't be 100% but they'd be close.

I don't know if you could really get the right shape from an Alco shell though. If you find some junk GEs, you might be able to hijack the door panels and make the rest from styrene.

[Herc Driver]

Very good ideas G.C.E.

Probably the best way to go is to entirely use styrene to form the shell. But is sure would be a bit simpler to start with a manufacturer's frame and shell to form the basic design.