Advice on Turnout Controls

[teejay]

I've used the "search" function on the forum but haven't really answered my problem .

On my HO layout-under-construction , I use code 100 Peco track and turnouts . I've recently removed the switch motors for a few reasons ....... would prefer manual control using knobs . The layout is 3'x10' for the first of two sections ( the second 3x10 will be built later ) and is point to point style .

The area of benchwork where I'd prefer to install the control knobs is about 6" LOWER than the turnouts I want to operate .

Any suggestions on how to go about doing this ?

Thanks , Terry

[BR60103]

Terry:
How much distance do you have to go down the 6"?
Have you looked at the Bluepoint and Bullfrog (?) by Fastracks? They use flexible aeroplane tubing. I'm sure if you coiled it into a helix you could drop as required.
Or a lever pivoted 3" below the roadbed.


Or are you working an elevated section at the back? Then you get into aeroplane tubing with angle cranks and stuff.

[teejay]

The picture shows several turnouts just sitting in position , unfastened , as I configure the track . The plan would be to house the turnout control knobs in the grey coloured side rails of the benchwork . If the knob was situated in the middle of the 3" pine siderail , the distance vertically to the highest point of the trackwork is about 6" . It varies , depending on the turnout , between 5" and 6" .

I was thinking that if I could twist the knobs ( rather than push-pull ) , I could run a wire horizontally toward the turnout , have a vertical wire to the actual turnout , and join that 90 degree " angle " I'v created , with rubber tube . Not sure what mechanism would move the switch lever itself .

T

[shortliner]

Not the cheapest way, but probably the easiest, for what you want to do <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sullivanproducts.com/GoldnRodMainFrame.htm">http://www.sullivanproducts.com/GoldnRodMainFrame.htm</a><!-- m -->
running a vertical wire - it will need fo be very stiff - over that length you will get flex, making movement/adjustment unpredictable. these are flexible and it should ne possible to run them directly to the turnouts, even around a curve - if youn are doing it as you describe, try brass electrical connectors (known in UK as choc-blocks) for joining the two rods, with twin screws that are cut from a strip - if you need more info on them, email me chacmool at lineone dot net

[Charlie B]

TeeJay, I just did this for about 50 cents a turnout. See the last few posts in my layout building thread and if you have any questions fire away
<!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=2638">viewtopic.php?f=46&t=2638</a><!-- l -->
Charlie

[teejay]

Geez Charlie , I even replied to that thread ....and promptly forgot about it .....brain fart I guess .

Thanks guys ,

T

[Sumpter250]

Geez Charlie , I even replied to that thread ....and promptly forgot about it .....brain fart I guess .

I get a tingling sensation in my ears when that happens, but it is almost imperceptible so I occasionally miss it

Just so you know, you're not alone. :oops:

[teejay]

Alone about what ??

[torikoos]

You could also use threaded rods to do so, see this video, made by a friend of mine, who uses this (his?) method on his layout.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vidkCRwQB-E&feature=plcp">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vidkCRwQB-E&feature=plcp</a><!-- m -->
The other option you could use is the bolt lock system as Joe Fugate demonstrates in some of his videos (see the modeltrainsvideo website for details).
A link is here: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://model-trains-video.com/d-video-trackDCC.php">http://model-trains-video.com/d-video-trackDCC.php</a><!-- m -->

hope this helps.

Koos

[teejay]

Thanks for the excellent advice , guys ....much appreciated . This is the only forum I'm active on so the advice here coupled with suggestions from 2 guys at work ( both accomplished mrrers ) has given me lots to chew on . Of course , there are pros and cons with all ideas . Money will have a significant bearing on my decision since I don't have much extra "hobby money " available .

The choices are : ....envelope , please

1. Just lean over the layout and activate the throw bars by hand . ( it's cheap )

2. Use my existing Peco switches ( they're noisy and require a 1.5" x .75 " hole which I don't like )

3. Modify the Peco switch mounting to a spot under the benchwork , requiring only a small hole up to the throwbar .

4.Use Caboose Industry ground throws ( not a bad looking product especially if I go with N scale throws ....but $5-6 each :evil: )

5.Use one or more of the suggestions provided above by forum members .

6.Find another switch machine product ( under the layout style ) at a train sale .

...decisions, decisions .

Terry

[shortliner]

Terry - an old cycle wheel and some choc-blocks will do this - cost choc-blox and some screws

   

[BR60103]

Terry:
I have a bunch of Peco machines mounted under the Homasote. Some Peco motors came with an extension for the wire. This is a brass tube and another bit of wire. You can use some tube & wire from the LHS. I crimped the tube so that it didn't move much in the direction of throw. I also bent the mounting pins out and fastened the motor with a couple of #8 screws with washer heads. neat trick: drill down just beyond the throw bar on the switch and you have the right place to mount the motor (HO gauge only). You then need only to have frilled a 1/4" (or a bit more) hole right under the hole in the tiebar.

There used to be a kit for mounting the motor. This had a bit of tube that went right under the throwbar and a brass pin that came down from the top.

[ocalicreek]

I was thinking that if I could twist the knobs ( rather than push-pull ) , I could run a wire horizontally toward the turnout , have a vertical wire to the actual turnout , and join that 90 degree " angle " I'v created , with rubber tube . Not sure what mechanism would move the switch lever itself .

I wrote an article about this very subject:

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh-2011-Feb/turnout_controls">http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/maga ... t_controls</a><!-- m -->

If you want a MUCH more DIY approach, but a similar rotary motion, Charlie Comstock wrote an article in MRH Q2 (April) 2009, on pg. 59.

Both are Forever FREE and available for download.

Galen

[teejay]

Thanks Galen , I've saved your article ...I'll look for the other one .

David , I checked the three unopened Peco switch motor I still have on the wall ....no enclosed extension rod .....but as you say , I should be able to rig something up if I go that way . I'm even thinking of just having the turnouts at the back of the layout powered and having the closer ones manual . I haven't decided yet .

Thanks again , all .

Terry