Question on laying Atlas flex track

[jefelectric]

I'm helping a grandson with his HO layout. We have a question. When laying Atlas flex track on curves is there a preferred way to bend it? Should the movable rail be on the inside or outside of the curve? The last time I laid HO flex track it was made with fiber tie strip, so it's been a while.

I did a search and didn't find anything on this subject.

Thanks,

[eightyeightfan1]

Wow! Fiber ties! I remember those.
Both rails do move on the newer flex track. But my guess would be( I use it all the time..never really thought about it) the inside rail, as this will be more stressed when bending for curves. I'm sure you can bend flex tarck into tight radius, but I wouldn't try it. I usually bend it into a more sweeping curves.

[RailCop]

John,

I have used flex track a whole lot and ALWAYS place the sliding rail on the inside of the curve. This way you only cut rail at the other end, not rail and ties. Of course there are times when you have to lay the track with the sliding rail on the outside ("S" curves) which is absolutly OKay, it makes no difference in the finished product. Good luck,

Kevin

[jefelectric]

Thanks guys. Kevin that point about keeping the sliding rail on the inside makes good sense. Will let you guts know how we make out. This will be a slow project as he works a couple of hours after school so his spare time is limited. I don't want to do it for him, just work with him on it and give advice.

[LynnB]

Sliding rail to the inside and try to avoid joints in the curve. Also let the curve flow freely and naturally nailing down the ends first.

[Steamtrains]

John...Great to see you're passing on the hobby to future generations...

If there's a joint of the fx'track on a curve, I solder the two pieces of track together before laying down. This way there's no possibility of a kink developing at the joint...Kinks on curves make great train-jumping spots....

[jglfan]

I have used flex track a whole lot and ALWAYS place the sliding rail on the inside of the curve. This way you only cut rail at the other end, not rail and ties.

I've never payed any attention to which side I placed the sliding rail, except to be consistant and keep it on the same side. This because

try to avoid joints in the curve

this can't always be done, and I have found the best way to avoid kinks when joining two pieces of flex track on a curve (in addition to Steamtrains advise to solder) is to not cut the rail ends which are longer on the inside of the curve, but to instead pull out the sliding rail on the next piece of track and thread it thru the ties to meet the rail on the first piece. Use a chisel blade to slice off the "spikeheads" where the rails join in order to fit a railjoiner. Solder if you like, but it usually is not needed. The fact that the railjoiners are offset, that is, not directly across from each other, helps prevent kinks.

Gary

[Lester Perry]

Gary is 100% right on the sliding rail and makeing the joints fall where they will. When you add a turnout or crossover or whatever to the track just cut both rails even with each other. put in the turnout and take the piece you cut off and continue from the turnout to keep the joints uneven. I have been doing it this way for years an never have problems at the joints. be sure to chisel the ties down at the joint for connector clearance or you will have a bump in the joint that will cause trouble. I think you will be amazed at how easy it is to make smooth curves this way. I have found that the further apart the better.
Les

[jefelectric]

Thanks for all of the help guys. I was planning on soldering the rail joints. I do like the staggering of the joints idea and will try to do that as well.

[RailCop]

Gary, Les........That's a great idea! I have never thought of doing it that way. Son of a gun, I think I'll be laying my track using this method from now on. I do like to solder my joints but the offset joints is better than what I have so far.

Thank you.

KT

[Tom]

John...Great to see you're passing on the hobby to future generations...

If there's a joint of the fx'track on a curve, I solder the two pieces of track together before laying down. This way there's no possibility of a kink developing at the joint...Kinks on curves make great train-jumping spots....

I can't recomend this idea enough. I usually solder 3 pieces together in curves and lay the whole shebang all at once to avoid kinks, with the sliders on the inside of the curve. That is in my opinion the biggest hurdle to overcome in using flex track, avoiding kinks, but if you are careful in how you lay your track, it's not an issue.

[Russ Bellinis]

John...Great to see you're passing on the hobby to future generations...

If there's a joint of the fx'track on a curve, I solder the two pieces of track together before laying down. This way there's no possibility of a kink developing at the joint...Kinks on curves make great train-jumping spots....

I can't recomend this idea enough. I usually solder 3 pieces together in curves and lay the whole shebang all at once to avoid kinks, with the sliders on the inside of the curve. That is in my opinion the biggest hurdle to overcome in using flex track, avoiding kinks, but if you are careful in how you lay your track, it's not an issue.

I want to make sure I understand what you are saying, Tom. Do you solder the flex track sections together while laying in a straight line on a table? If so, how do you bend the track when the soldered rail joiners or I would imagine solder itself won't slide through the spike detail on the ties?

[Tom]

I want to make sure I understand what you are saying, Tom. Do you solder the flex track sections together while laying in a straight line on a table? If so, how do you bend the track when the soldered rail joiners or I would imagine solder itself won't slide through the spike detail on the ties?

I lay them out on the work bench, cut away several ties (usually about 1" - 2" worth) from the ends so the sliding rails can slide freely, attach the joiners, and solder them together in a straight shot. That makes for a piece of flex approximately 7 and a half feet long. Then, I start massaging the curve to get the sliding rails moving back and forth, and lay it on the layout. I use Atlas Code 83 mostly. Once I get the track secured to the layout, I cut the spike detail off the tops of the ties I removed with a chisel blade in an X-Acto knife and slide those ties back under the joints with a little elmers glue on the bottom of those ties to secure them.

Doing it this way causes the rail joiners to be off set, they are soldered so they won't come apart or kink, and ensures a smooth curve without kinks.

[jefelectric]

Thanks Tom, That sounds like a plan to me.

[Steamtrains]

Tom gave a pretty good description of the process to follow. I had to solder three pieces of track once to get a smooth "S" curve on a grade....Sure was glad one of my sons was around to help me handle that monster 9 foot section of track...!!!