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As I have posted frequently, my Father-in-Law gives me bunches of models... Now comes the trade off...
He has no interest in building a layout, but he loves building wood craftsmen kits. His current obsession is HOn3 D&RGW. He doesn't have an airbrush, and I have 3. He wants me to paint his parts, which I am happy to do. Here is the rub... I can paint plastic and metal ok, but I have never painted wood. If I mess them up, I am sure he would be forgiving, but I would beat myself up over it for a while.
Any useful hints, tips, how to's would be very much appreciated.
My primary concerns are warping/distorting the wood, losing the wood grain in the finished product, and painting an area that should not be painted due to adhesive issues.
Matt
Don't follow me, I'm lost too.
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Try some of the oil based stains if you want to keep the grain , otherwise Floquil and other oil paints will eliminate warpage if you are only painting one side of the wood piece ....I've had good luck with water based paints on stripwood if I paint both sides immediately . If you are painting the wood but not using it right after it dries , weigh
it down for time period before use . Painting over glue can be a problem ....take EXTRA care with glued areas and use ( your wifes
) emery boards to sand in the nooks and crannies ...they can be cut to a particular shape with scissors if need be . Emery boards are cheap and invaluable little tools for wood modeling .
T
To err is human, to blame it on somebody else shows management potential.
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Most of my wood models do not have a shining surface. They are all very flat.
I started in most cases with an extrem thinned enamel varnish of wished color - dark green or black so that paint did soak in to wood.
I all cases you must grinding all wood surfaces and do same a second time with a bit more color and lesser solvent. I tried to avoid water solvable paints, I think better are lacquers. Doing this you will not receive a bright and glossy surface however after coloring you must add a glossy colorless base for decaling. A flat finish should follow.
The best is to color the raw wood before you start to build a model - with colors that are soaked in the wood, like I have written. However a finishing with coloring must follow in each case.
Cheers, Bernd
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" Wood Grain "- The model railroader's obsession ! ( and :oops: also the model shipbuilder's
:oops:
)
The average viewing distance of most HO scale models is about three feet ( or more ).
THAT, is:
computing 261 feet 4 inches !! :o :o
Stand 261'-4" from a wood structure that has been freshly painted, and see just how much "wood Grain" you can see !
:o not a whole lot ???? !!!!!
- - - How about that ! :oops:
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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Also consider using markers instead of paint . There are marker "kits" out there for sale ...I have a number of Prismacolor markers ......fine tip on one end , broader tip on the other end ...but I'm sure there are many other manufacturers . They do work well on wood .
T
To err is human, to blame it on somebody else shows management potential.
