Install Tsunami Sound in Athearn Genesis GP15-1
#1
May be you are interesting my report how I installed my first Tsunami sound decoder into an Atheran H0 Genesis GP15-1.

The upgrade from the DC version is very easy

1. swap the Athearn PCB with the Tsunami decoder TSU-GN1000 828058 EMD 645 (Non turbo). Install Tsunami with the capacitors down.
2. reconnect all four power wires and the motor wires (same locations as with Athearn)
3. put the speaker 810113 with the front down and build a styrene box about .35"/9mm high around it. Do not forget to solder two wires to the speaker and have a small opening for the wires.
(Soundtraxx provides construction drawings with correct size to build the baffle. I preferred the easy way und built the box around the speaker laying on a glass plane)
4. mount the baffle with tape to the chassis and solder the speaker wires
5. solder the lamp wires in place ( same location at with Athearn)
6. put the shell back and you are done with the hardware :-)

The Tsunami did work with the Athearn drive out of the box fine.
I selected speedtabel CV25=11 and reduced speed down to 32 in CV66 and 95 (set bit 4 in CV 29!). Sound became "apartment friendly" after CV128 was set to 20 Wink

I am very satisfied!

Two sample photos taken at a test run after step 4. the baffle needs to be removed again and the small holes in the corners and the speaker need to be closed to trap the sound in the baffle.

[Image: IMG_3604_zps3613a312.jpg]
[Image: IMG_3605_zpse66b910d.jpg]

ps. Vernon contemporary industry "shoe box" buildings are the perfect training to build baffles. Just shrink the dimensions and omit the loading dock 357
Reinhard
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#2
Hi Reinhard, be careful now, not too much sound ! :-)

Here's my GP15-1 , in my case with a loksound.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HL_FeuCvZ5o">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HL_FeuCvZ5o</a><!-- m -->

Koos
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
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#3
Hi Koos, that's a nice video explaining all the steps. It is basically very similar.
I noticed two differences
a. your speaker has a closed backside and works without a baffle. Mine has an open backside and needs to reside in a baffle to prevent an acoustic shortcut.
b. the Tsunami Athearn drop in Tsunami have 1.5 V bulb support only. That's fine if you like the bulbs. I do not and have most Athearn engines replaced with LED. LED will not work with 1.5V properly. They are rated for current but for simplicity you can assume 3V is the right voltage. I did therefor order "universal" instead of drop in decoders for my MP5AC LED equipped machines.
Reinhard
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#4
faraway Wrote:Hi Koos, that's a nice video explaining all the steps. It is basically very similar.
I noticed two differences
a. your speaker has a closed backside and works without a baffle. Mine has an open backside and needs to reside in a baffle to prevent an acoustic shortcut.
b. the Tsunami Athearn drop in Tsunami have 1.5 V bulb support only. That's fine if you like the bulbs. I do not and have most Athearn engines replaced with LED. LED will not work with 1.5V properly. They are rated for current but for simplicity you can assume 3V is the right voltage. I did therefor order "universal" instead of drop in decoders for my MP5AC LED equipped machines.


Thanks Reinhard, alternatively, you can use the 12V output on Tsunami decoders. The only thing to do then is to add resistors to your outputs, and solder the LED's to those. In small loco's this will take up a bit more space, and it's why I like the Loksounds because of the build in resistors.

This video shows it in operation, and you can see how bright the LED's are.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cxCNK6qCIk&list=UUiKMM02w8vLf0WSnbNWIelQ">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cxCNK6 ... WSnbNWIelQ</a><!-- m -->

I did select a different sound file after this video was made as I did not like the beeping noise at engine start up and shut down. This early recording must have been made with a microphone in the engine compartment, where a warning buzzer is fitted. The other sound file I now use does not use that beeping sound.

One more: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://youtu.be/ipL9QMpppqQ?list=UUiKMM02w8vLf0WSnbNWIelQ">http://youtu.be/ipL9QMpppqQ?list=UUiKMM ... WSnbNWIelQ</a><!-- m -->
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
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#5
Koos, are you sure the drop in decoders intended for Athaern Genesis engines have a 12V output too? I did not find anything in the documentation.

Yes, I remember the fun to play with different sound files and customize them like hell. I believe there must be somewhere a hidden switch to get the functionality of a dish washer and a TV set :o I recommend to go into the stepping and reduce it to less steps matching the max speed set in CV5 you run on your ISL. It makes a great difference if the notch up is better set.
Reinhard
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#6
Hi Reinhard, the universal Tsunami decoders I've used have that function, I must admit I have no experience with the 'AT' version. However, there seems to be one spot on the board with a 'lightning' symbol, I'm thinking this is a +V spot before the build in resistors on the 'AT' board, and might have full track power. So I think there are ways to make it work.

Koos

PS check here: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=31792">http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topi ... C_ID=31792</a><!-- m -->

I'm getting the impression that the design has changed as previously they didn't have resistors on board, and they seem to have now. However I'd think if you connected behind the resistors with another value resistor, you'd be able to get sufficient voltage for the led's too.
On another forum I found this exchange (answer) from Soundtraxx to someone: "In order to install LED’s or bulbs with the TSU-GN1000 you will need to wire to the +14 common. To locate the +14 common look near the two silver capacitors. You will see a small brass circle that goes all the way through the board and is labeled “+14” in white letters. This will take place of the existing common (+). For LED’s you will need to wire in a resistor for each light"
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
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#7
Koos, thank you. That is very helpful.
I did find the drawing explaining how to find the 1.5V common on universal boards (for the bulb freaks) but the information about the +15V on drop in boards is new to me and very useful (for the LED freaks like me).

I have a drop in on order for easy fit into my CSX YN3 GP15T with bulbs and "standard" Tsunami with wires with 645 sound for MILW MP15AC and 567 sound for CR RS3m. The MP15AC and RS3m (Atlas RS3 drive) have home made PCBs and LEDs and it will be no "drop in". The Tsunami 1000 decoder is much larger (longer and thicker) than the ZIMO MX630 and I have to find a place for the speakers too. That will keep me busy some time.
Reinhard
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#8
I had to change my plans. The purple Tsunami decoders arrived yesterday. Those are huge ugly blocks. The purple coat hides two full size connectors plus a large heat sink at the backside. I consider it an awful design.
One decoder was stripped off the purple coat, the connectors removed, the heat sink at the backside removed and wires soldered on the PCB. A risky process but it worked out well and the naked decoder resides in an Athern CR GP9 now. We will see how long the decoder can survive without it's heat sink. I am not going to do that a second time! It is also not a way to get a purple monster decoder into smaller units like an MP15 etc.
I am returning the remaining three purple monsters and get drop in decoders in exchange. I should find a way to use them with bulbs/LEDs as required with the information Koos provided. I could verify it with the Athearn drop in planned for the CSX GP15. There is a solder point labeled "+14". That look good for a resistor and LED combination.
Reinhard
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#9
I've never owned any of the purple monsters, but they do look larger than needed. The drop in decoders prove that it can be done differently.

Now, if you find you struggle to get good switching performance out of your other Tsunami's, don't fret, they can be tamed. However take your time, and don't let the thing defeat you.
The advanced motor control parameters are your best bet.

How to's :
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.nmra.org.au/gndu/EasyDCC/Decoders.pdf">http://www.nmra.org.au/gndu/EasyDCC/Decoders.pdf</a><!-- m -->
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.mrdccu.com/curriculum/soundtraxx/tsunami.htm">http://www.mrdccu.com/curriculum/soundtraxx/tsunami.htm</a><!-- m -->

And lastly a set up procedure as performed by my friend Brian Moore, who writes:

Soundtraxx Tsunami decoders have great sounds, but can blight a locomotive with "herky-jerky" sudden starts and stops, which (for me, anyway) completely ruin the effect of operating model trains, especially when we've spent so much time and effort to make everything else look "real".

The BM Tsunami method:

Start with everything set at factory default, and input 50 into CV209. Then, put 1 into CV210.

Set the loco to travel at speed step one (using a 28-step speed input), and then increase the value of 210 until it runs smoothly. You may also consider reducing CV209 after that, to get it crawling along, without hesitation. After you're happy, you can then install any custom speed-curve using CV25 and CV29.

Note that, for getting the best results from a Tsunami (or any other sound decoder), some "delay" via CV3 and CV4 is required. This will also assist with smooth starts and stops. My usual values are CV3, 50-80, CV4, 30-50.

Depending on the make and model of locomotive, these two CV values should be tested in various combinations until satisfaction is attained. Note that each individual locomotive should be tested; don't assume that if one set of CV settings works in one loco, an "identical" one will perform in the same way.

Here's my Tsunami-equipped Atlas RS11. For starting and stopping, go to 3.00:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=dN4VrOjNboI">https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=p ... N4VrOjNboI</a><!-- m -->
When starting, I just hike the Lenz controller up to speed step 7, and the delay in CV3 means it sets off smoothly.
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
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#10
Hi Koos, interesting reading. I found both some time ago in the net. Funny thing is I have no problems to get the motors run nice (no as good as Zimo decoders do, but good enough). But CV 3 and 4 are fine at a value of 5 for me. At my age it is critical to life to see the engine reaching the speed 357

The RS11 video is great. That's about the way I do it too Thumbsup
(is that video done with a delay in CV3/4 around 50?, looks more like my 5 and a gentle hand at the throttle)

ps. The CSX YN3 GP15T got a Tsunami too.
Reinhard
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#11
Hi Reinhard,

Both Brian and I use Lenz DCC systems, and we both use the LH100 handset, which has pushbuttons. A somewhat lazy way of operating is to use the larger buttons which increase/decrease the speedsteps by 7 at a time. That's when this comes in handy. The other buttons do it a speed step at a time, but you are pressing the buttons repeatedly when doing that, potentially wearing them out quicker.
Their other throttle (Which I don't own) LH90 has a round knob / potentiometer/rotary encoder,and might be better suited for this sort of thing.

I believe your controller has round knobs too. Anyway, yes the RS11 has fairly high CV values in CV3 and CV4. So do all my own loco's though, but it depends a lot per loco and individual performance. Some are set with these values around 15/20, while others have 30..
Also the higher the value, the more 'momentum/inertia' you seem to have to overcome, as if the loco is pulling a heavy train. Now from a switcher with one or two cars I can imagine you want a bit more immediate response, a longer heavier train should accelerate slower etc. Of course with a rotary knob, you can simulate that your selves.

However, when using higher values in CV3 and CV4, depending on the sound decoder, you might find that the sound of the engine revs up several notches when you jump several speed steps, while the engine barely moves initially. This really gives the impression it's working hard to get the train moving. Doing it one speed step at a time, will give the speed of the loco time to catch up with the sound, and even though it might speed up slowly, it won't be rev'ing so hard.

Either way, sound does add a dimension to operating a layout, and often people learn to 'slow down' , and almost naturally start to operate more realistically.

Koos
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
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