Shinohara vs. Peco, I need YOUR opinion!!

[buckykatt1]

Hi Everyone ,
well I've come to a bit of a crossroads while building up my new layout. With the benchwork well underway, and the Helix painted up, I've come to an abrupt halt getting ready to lay track. I'm uncertain as to what track to use. I've been a user of Shinohara for quite a few years, but I'm starting to wonder if maybe Peco is better. I'm looking to start an all out head to head pro's and con's to the use of each product.

For instance, PRO - Shinohara is cheaper than Peco, CON - The availability of Shinohara can be a nightmare at times.

Here is where I need your guys' input. Do you think Shinohara or Peco is better - AND WHY? Your reasoning for which product to use is the biggest key to my decision that I will be making. So please have a good reason as to why you do or don't like a product.

Here is what I need...
I'm specifically looking at using HO Scale, code 83. I will be needing ALOT of #4, 5, and 6 turnouts. I would also prefer to be able to have a switch that can accomadate working ground throws, and it must be DCC friendly.

I've got alot of track right now, but I need ALOT more. I've read over a few posts and topics about Peco and Shinohara, so I know alot of you modeler's out their have used Peco and Shinohara in the past, and may be even using it now. So please, jump on the band wagon and let me know your thoughts. Thanks

[teejay]

I can't compare Peco to Shinohara ...others can chime in ...but I've had no touble at all with the Peco turnouts over 10 years . My only regret was buying the Peco PL10 turnout motors ( under table style ) at the same time back then . They have an annoying buzz when activated . They may well have an improved version now or look for a quieter brand . I do use hand throws on a few of the closer turnouts in the yard .
Most of my turnouts are larger radius , both straight and curved ...haven't used a #4 .

T

[Steamtrains]

I use Atlas Flex-Track 3' Nickel Silver track (Code 100). I use Peco "Live Frog" Medium turnouts to match rail.
I also solder two 3' sections together to lay on curves which eliminates the "kink" you get when joining track sections on curves.
All of the above on cork roadbed glued to the substrate.
Nothing "sours" an operating session more than constant derailments or loss of power. So a solid foundation is a must to enjoy trouble-free running.
Hope this helps.

Gus.

[MasonJar]

Pecos are recommended at my local modular club because they are bomb proof. Most of the ones installed are the "original" style. I have not seen many of the newer code 83 "North American" style. However, if the mechanism is the same - and there's no reason to believe it's not - they should be good.

I really like the look of the Walthers-Shinohara turnouts. I have bought them for my modules that will eventually make it into "public" use at the club.

However, for operation like the Pecos, you need to add a ground throw, switch machine, or the like. Unless you make it yourself, you need to add that cost before you declare them cheaper.

Hope that helps.

Andrew

[BR60103]

Do the Shinoharas still come with the one-piece brass points pressing? We had a little trouble with these shorting as the points couldn't be separated electrically. The fellow who owned the layout changed them all for points filed from rail.

I use all Peco at the moment.

[e-paw]

I say just build your own.. much more cost effective.

[teejay]

Good point , at the club I used to belong to they need a couple of hundred turnouts for the big layout and built their own using the provided jigs .......in the end after a few botched efforts , they built excellent turnouts at a reasonable cost ....pretty sure it was Fast Tracks .

[e-paw]

Yep. Fast tracks are the way to go. After the first investment , you can build switches for about $8 a piece.

[Stampede]

Hi Guys,

First post! I've been lurking around for a while but finally have something worth while to say.

I've used both Peco and Shinohara code 100 switches. I've used insul-frog and electro-frog with Peco and Electro-frog with Shinohara.

I find Peco has the advantage as I've had much less problems with them, and I certainly prefer the option to use their built in spring to keep the switch set instead of installing ground throws. You can still remove the spring to install a ground throw or switch motors but I like the option.

Shinohara looks a little better in my eyes but after weathering and ballasting I wouldn't know the difference.

Hope you find something that fits your needs!

Dave

[buckykatt1]

Hey guys,
thanks for all the replies. I never did think about building my own turnouts and swithes (that would be saving me a ton of money). Something I'm gonna have to look at into the near future. For now though, I think I'm gonna stick with the Shinohara switches. I've never had any problems with them before, I've got plenty on hand, and they seem easy enough to use with my Caboose Hobbies ground throws (would be nice if they could make the ground throw switches actual HO Scale size - and still be operational), but oh well. Now.. I've gotta look at how to wire up a Helix....

[Steamtrains]

Just askin'...Is there some trick to wiring a helix..??
I'm considering installing one to get cars up to the layout from a lower level staging area.
Thanks for any info you might provide..

[doctorwayne]

Just askin'...Is there some trick to wiring a helix..??
....

There shouldn't be: it's just a straight track that's not straight.

Wayne

[River Witch 14]

On my small switching layout I use Atlas code 100 nickle silver flex track and Peco small radius insul-frog turnouts and have never had any problems. I also have installed
caboose industries sprung ground throws and they work well also. But as others have said,the choice is yours.

[thoroughbreed]

I've had problems with early Shinohara's NOT being DCC friendly.

[MasonJar]

I've had problems with early Shinohara's NOT being DCC friendly.

I have heard this too. However, I have no problems with the newer ones from Walthers-Shinohara.

Andrew