Kitbashing a doodlebug

[cn nutbar]

Excellent work Glen---looks like the Bee is going to have a twin sister soon

[ERIE RR]

I'm surprised you didn't use a NWSL power truck for this project, then again I can understand using what one has on hand...

ERIE RR

[doctorwayne]

One of the advantages of using the Athearn truck is the robust gearing and the fact that it will accept many different styles of plastic sideframes - those on the BEE are meant for C-Liners and are from Detail Associates. The Athearn truck is also a lot less expensive than the NWSL truck, and is usually available, used, with a complete locomotive. That means that you get a compatible frame on which to mount it , along with, possibly, a useable motor and drivetrain, plus a body shell from which detail parts can be cut.

Wayne

[cnrglen]

Thanks for the interest and feedback everyone. I picked the drive for the same reasons Doctor Wayne did, ease to adapt and it's cheap (in my case, free)

I have a set of sideframes set up on the drive, and I spent a few hours today finishing up the front. I'll post pictures tomorrow.

[cnrglen]

Here's some pictures of my latest progress:

First the front truck

I also used C-liner frames but I couldn't find the detail associates ones. These are from Smokey Valley instead. I had to trim the frames down lengthwise to get the to fit and swing properly.

After I had the trucks I could add the front coupler and pilot. The coupler is still removable through the front, the pilot is epoxied it so it's not going anywhere.

Now the front. I added the front panels of styrene to smooth the front a bit, accented with some 1X6 and half-round styrene strip. I'll be adding marker lights above the windows.

I also divided the middle window in half and the coupler mount on the bottom doubles as an anti climber.

I used a plow as the pilot to duplicate what the CPR unit had. I cut to down from the top so it could mount flat.

as it sits now the exterior needs grabs, ladders and stirups and then the interior will need to be looked at.

Finally the rear truck will have to be modified to pick up power. I'm not going to rely on just the front truck with my not-so-clean track.

[cnrglen]

Well I got a fair amount done on the project this weekend. First I added all the grabs including a ladder made of drop grabs on the engineer's side.

I used Detail Associates drop grabs and fashioned this drilling jig from the side of an Athearn boxcar.

Then I used a piece of styrene 4x4 to ensure proper and uniform spacing.

And here is the finish piece. It's almost ready for the paint shop. I think I'll paint it first and then add the remaining drive after (motor, universals, wiring)
I also added the pickups to the rear truck:

I need my friend to do his soldering magic before I can continue with this part.

[cnrglen]

Just a quick update on the project.


I sprayed the primer on the model the other day. I'll wait a few days until I spray the CPR Tuscan on it. I have 5 other CPR passenger cars to be painted at the same time. I'm waiting until after painting and decaling to add the some of the more fragile details like stirrups since they may just be damaged in the handling.

[ak-milw]

Looks great in the primer, all the details stand out.

[doctorwayne]

Yeah, a coat of primer really brings things together.

Wayne

[cnrglen]

Thanks guys. I hope to have the 'bug' rolling on the rails soon.
I took a deep breath and fired up my new airbrush today (a P acshe model H)


I used Scalecoat CPR Tuscan red. Since I was going to spray the doodlebug I decided to get a few other cars ready for paint at the same time. There's a Rivarossi Pullman, and Athearn baggage, clerestory roof coach and a round roof coach. I also had enough paint to spray an Athrean RPO that's not in the picture.


I was pretty happy with how the paint turned out. Not having sprayed Scalecoat in almost 15 years sent me back on a learning curve. on my first car I hadn't thinned it enough and it spattered pretty bad but after thinning and re-spraying the car it looked better. The other thing I remembered was that it dries somewhat glossy so it shows all the mistakes that a dull finish would hide.

The color is a bit less burgundy in person, I think my camera is playing a trick on it.

[Catt]

Looking good,that definitely is the right colour for that beauty.About that gloss finish thing,I've always found that gloss seems to help hide my OOPS! where a flat or satin makes them easier to see. Anyway this is my opinion of your project.

[cnrglen]

Thanks John. I believe Scalecoat is glossy of semi-glossy for better decal adhesion, then you spray dulcoat to tone it down. Anyway this project is on hiatus for awhile now while the paint cures. Scalecoat also takes a lot longer to fully 'air' out than other paints.

[doctorwayne]

That CPR maroon looks good, Glen.
While Scalecoat does take longer to fully harden, once it does it becomes very tough. As my supply of Floquil and PollyScale gets used-up, I'll be switching fully to Scalecoat.
They offer 73 colours, along with 6 weathering colours and flat and gloss finishes, plus appropriate thinners for both solvent-based Scalecoat I and acrylic Scalecoat II. It's also available in spray cans and touch-up pens. While I'll mostly be using an airbrush for application, a friend has told me that he gets good results using a brush, too.

Wayne

[cnrglen]

Thanks Wayne. I checked the cars when I came home today from work and the color seems to have tones down a bit as it dried.
I recently acquired about 300$ worth of paint and thinners from a modeler who was admitted to a care home, as well as the airbrush and the paint booth I'm spraying them in. Most of the colors are either UP or SP (his favorite railroads) I did get a number of bottles of CN and CP colors as well as generic ones (oxide red, grimey black.) I have both scalecoat 1 and 2 and as far as I can tell, scalecoat 2 is not an acrylic. It is an enamel or other oil based paint that is supposedly safer on plastic. That being said I sprayed these with scalecoat 1 with no effect on the 1 car that I didn't primer.

[doctorwayne]

Yeah, I've used Scalecoat I on plastic, too, although I did prime it first with Floquil Grey Primer - mainly to provide a neutral base for the maroon.





Wayne