Grab Irons for GP38-2 and SD70M

[Trucklover]

I need to get Grab Irons for my BNSF GP38-2 (RTR Unit) and SP SD70M (Genesis Unit). Are they the same size grab irons? There both missing the grabs on the front and rear and i would like to replace them with metal ones and paint them to match but i havent the slightest idea where to get them or how to go about this. Im used to them coming with the loco and applying them on the KATO's lol

Both locos have the wholes pre-drilled so all i would have to do it slip them in place. I would prefer to buy them already bent and ready to install.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance

[doctorwayne]

Detail Associates offer grab irons in at least a couple of sizes, and there are others from A-Line and Tichy. The most common sizes are 18" and 24", in both straight- and drop-styles. D.A. also offers some hood-top curved grabs, too. Other sizes and styles can be bent from .012" brass or stainless steel wire, also available from Detail Associates, or from music wire. HERE'S a little more on that subject.

Wayne

[upnick]

Hi Doctorwayne,
I have the same predicament with an AC4400 dummy SP loco i got from Josh it needs drop grab irons but with flattened ends where they attach to the loco as here ......


I looked at the how to of the irons ....... a way of reproducing the flat ends would be good.

Also i'm looking for metal wheelsets for the BB dummies so i can fit lighting in them with a TCS FL4

[Russ Bellinis]

Josh, you don't need to make the flat ends of the grabs. Glue on n-b-w (nut-bolt-washer) castings of the correct size to simulate the nuts & bolts or rivets holding the grabs in place, and the drill the holes just above the n-b-w's for the grab irons to go into. If the grabs go through holes in the body, they will be much stronger than just gluing them to the surface of the body, which you would need to do if you produce flattened ends.

[upnick]

Josh, you don't need to make the flat ends of the grabs. Glue on n-b-w (nut-bolt-washer) castings of the correct size to simulate the nuts & bolts or rivets holding the grabs in place, and the drill the holes just above the n-b-w's for the grab irons to go into. If the grabs go through holes in the body, they will be much stronger than just gluing them to the surface of the body, which you would need to do if you produce flattened ends.

Hi Russ,

Great idea /tip for the irons look out for some tiny n-b-w now

[Trucklover]

Thanks guys for the help.

I placed another small order with a hobby shop on e-bay and got some grab irons. I got a pack of 20 drop grabs from BLMA, a BLMA Grab Iron Drill Template, a set Grab Irons for a SD70/SD75 Athearn loco (see if i cant use them on the SD70M, and a Atlas Code 82 30 Degree Crossing lol $26.00 shipped

Wayne imma check out the DA Grab Irons too, and thanks for posting that link

[doctorwayne]

Here's an example using the bolt detail that's cast-on many plastic models. The cast-on grab iron was shaved off, then holes drilled beneath the bolt detail, with the "legs" of the wire pushed through the holes. I bend-over the ends of the wire inside the shell, then apply ca, also from the inside.
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Where there's no cast bolt-head detail, you need to select the proper-size nbw castings, drill holes for them and cement them in place. When the cement has hardened, drill holes above, below, or beside, depending on your prototype, the nbw, then install the wire grabs.
If you absolutely have to have that flattened section, there are at least two ways to accomplish it. The first is to form the wire grab iron from brass, but only the part that will be visible when it's installed. At the point where a regular grab iron would enter the hole in the body shell, bend the "legs" outward to each side. Next, with the grab crossways in an open vise, and supported by the out-turned legs (hanging across the opening between the jaws of the vise like a "U"), set a piece of metal atop each leg, in turn, at the point where it bends to form the "U", and strike the metal lightly with a hammer. This will create a flat spot. Use a knife, Dremel tool, and/or file to shape each flattened area, then trim them to proper length. Now, drill each flattened area to accept a suitable-diameter wire (which will represent the bolt - you're on your own here for the nut/washer part of the equation ), solder the wire in place, leaving enough to bend over when inserted into the body shell. You may be able to file the solder to a rough approximation of a bolt head, then trim the visible end of the wires to length. Finally, drill corresponding holes in the body shell, inserting, bending, and cementing the wire as outlined before.
An easier way is to install the nbw castings in the proper places, then cement short lengths of .010"x.020" styrene strip in place to represent the flattened areas. Drill the holes for the wire part of the grab iron, and install as outlined.

Grandt Line offers a wide selection of nbw castings, with different style washers (round, cupped, square) and in various sizes. For grab irons, the 3/4" size are probably most appropriate. Detail Associates has wire grab irons with a sprue of plastic 3/4" nbw castings included.

Wayne

[upnick]

Hi Doctorwayne,

Sounds like a challenge getting the nbw fixed up but i'll look on Grant line stuff and place an order many thanks for the info