WARP 10 Car Kits
#16
Hello,

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Next were coupler boxes. The upper half of Kadee #242 snap together were centered and glued with CA. This avoids hassle with CA on unwanted areas.




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When the CA is hardenend the bottom lid is simply clipped onto. As we are uncoupling only by hand with wooden shaslik spits, the trip pins were obsolete and therefore removed.




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Both cars were equipped with 3-point equalisation for better and stable running. No rocking here anymore.




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The trucks were bolted on and for the first time the cars were standing onto track.




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Now is the time to control the coupler height and correct it if necessary.
One car was equipped with Atlas trucks and Atlas wheelsets, the other car was equipped with trucks of unknown manufacture (maybe Bowser?) and Kadee wheelsets.



Lutz
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#17
Hello,

next duty was brake rigging:
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Fortunately i had saved the step by step instructions written by Ted Culotta: http://steamerafreightcars.com/modeling/...smain.html




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Just the same K-Brake parts of Red Caboose were included within the kits.




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The lower bearings for the brake wheel spindle were surplus from Tichy kits. Styrene is not so brittle as this notorious resin. For additional strength it was pinned with an piece of brass wire.




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Doing the chain link.




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Mounting some components.




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Finished with underbody brake details.



Lutz
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#18
Nicely-done, Lutz.   Applause Applause  Applause

That's pretty-much the same procedure that I use, also inspired by Mr. Culotta.  

The main difference on mine is that I angle the control rods towards the centresill.  While it's not prototypical, it allows greater rotation of the trucks, which can be a benefit on tight curves. 

   

...and with the car on the tracks, when viewed from the side, the brake rigging still looks as it should...

   

Wayne
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#19
Hello,

o.k. Wayne i see you are going serial.


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More brake stuff. Brackets and platform are also surplus from Tichy kits.
As i forgot to make a passage for the retainer valve plumbing, don't worry and built this part in two pieces. One upon the platform and one below. And if nobody knows ...




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The brake shaft is longer than it will be needed. Cutting is easy.




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There is still this da...d askew grab iron. Curse




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Corrected.




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There is always the question of the "right" weight of an car. As i prefer 3-point suspensions, there is no need to overweight the car. A stable ride is guaranteed and rocking fron side to side is eliminated. So those two old nuts will do it for the purpose.




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At least "Zwangsmaßnahmen" (coumpulsory measures) were taken to fit the roofs. Overnight hardening of course.


Lutz
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#20
Hello,

now the single AT&SF boxcar.

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The body was halfway mounted and the next task was to build the underframe.
Besides the truck bolsters there are pieces of structural sills. 




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Still here no real starting point was given by the kit and the instructions were rather cryptic. Huh
The thick longitudual sills have flanges and i presume they should display steel "I" beams. But the flanges were extreme thin castings an for this very delicate. No wonder they brittled away during handling for mounting.




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To repair this lasting i cut 2 stripes of 0.3mm styrene and glued them onto the damaged sills.
Also here 3-point equalisation.




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Coupler height check.




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Then i started for drilling the bores for the queen posts. This was done in a multi stage process, starting witth 0,8mm drill bits, continued with 1.2mm and at least with 1.5mm. This preserves the sills to crack.
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#21
Hello,

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Started to set the queen posts. There were fortunately made out of PS.




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All set and glued.




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Here too i decided to use the A-Line steps, but they have to be modified because the mounting is from the side.




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K-Brake here too. And here too i resigned of the presentation of the through brake line.




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The i could'nt resist to mount the first truss rod.
The instructions here prescribed to made the truss rods out of fishing line of which a lenght was the kit. But before mounting the open worked turnbuckles should be slid onto the line. One end of the fishing line should then lead through a bore on the botton and knotted inside the body. The other lenght hav to be guiden over the queenposts, threaded into the other bore in the botton, set under strain and also knotted from inside.
The fishing line was bent and it took a pretty much strain to straighten it. Fo my opinion too much for the brittle resine.
So my experiment was made with 0.3mm bronze wire. I looks alright, the wire is straight and there is no tension necessary.
The wire went through an is visible within the turnbuckle. But there is a solution.




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But at first i completed the brake gear because of the easier acess without the truss rods.




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Then i began mounting the truss rods. This was step were i had jitters before.

But the work was easily done:
Simply thread one end of the bronze wire into the bore and bend the end about 150°.
Then thread the turnbuckle onto the wire.
Bend the wire over the first queenpost.
Slide the turnbuckle between the two queenposts.
Bend the wire over the second queenpost.
Thread it into the second bore.
Pull somewhat until it lay straight.
And then bend the other end about 150°.

So it was a easy task.
The weights here too are old nuts.




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So it looks alike.
The stirrups, or more exactly said parts of them because they are not complete now, were also mounted.


Lutz
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#22
Lutz, if you scroll down this page and then go to this one, in the same lengthy thread, there are some photos showing a method of using clear monofilament fishing line as truss rods. 
The material is easy to use, and with the Tichy turnbuckles, the clear material allows a see-through effect.  I added the spacers,  shown atop the car's floor, and not cemented in-place, just in case I ever need to add a thicker piece if the truss rods beging to sag, but even after several years, there is no sag in them at all.  A reel of the fishing line will do hundreds of cars, and is not very expensive.

Wayne
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#23
Wayne,

thank you for the links, i will read this worthwhile thread later completely.

An other thought of mine was to cut a piece of this 0.3mm wire out. Just the lenght equal the open space of the turnbuckle. Then there will be really nothing inside the turnbuckle.


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But i found a solution. This photo shows the not-to-see-through turnbuckle.




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If you will turn the tunbuckles in a nearly horizontal position.
From this angle of view you have no idea if the wire is still going through or is discontinuous.




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The typical perspective cars are spotted on a layout.




As lookahead:
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Open turnbuckle or not?

Wayne this were my thoughts how to tackle the problem truss rods with turnbuckles. I had big jimjams before, but found a useable solution. This may be not 100% perfect and when it comes for building and kitbashing of cars, i am not so skilled as you. For me this domain is more likely mee to.


Lutz
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#24
Well, Lutz, I think your cars have turned out very nicely, especially given all the obstacles that the brittle and warped kits put in your pathway.

And, of course, you're right about the turnbuckles, as they would have been tightened as needed, and would not always end-up aligned so that a viewer could look through them.

I'm looking forward to seeing the cars once they've been lettered.

Wayne
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#25
Hello Wayne,

Ja LETTERING! That is the point where i have opened the hunt for it. Here on the other side of the Big Pond US modelrailroading starts virtually with second generation Diesel. For this era it is relative easy to get decals for this mainstream era.
But for steam era there is effectively nothing available. Even ordering in the States is not a really alternative as postal services have slowed down due Covid19 lockdown. Aa a consequence air traffic was reduced to the bare bones. Have heard from postal items piling in the mayor hubs for months.
So it may last a while until i can present the cars lettered.
A further possibilty is to do some kind of kitbashing out of decal sets intended for more modern eras.


Lutz
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#26
Lutz, Microscale has some decal sets for older cars: 

Set 87-499 does UNION PACIFIC boxcars 1926-1939...

   

   

Set 87-911 does a variety of Southern Pacific wood boxcars 1923-1962...

   

   

   

   

Set 87-735 does four Chicago & Northwestern 40' Fowler single sheathed wood boxcars - 1914-1959

Set MC-4235 does one 40' Northern Pacific double sheathed wood boxcar with a choice of three lettering schemes for cars from 1918, 1937, or 1955.

Unfortunately, I don't have photos of those last two.

There may be other Microscale sets for other older cars, too.

Wayne
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#27
Thank you Lutz and Doctor Wayne---this thread is a great tutorial for us "wanna-be" modellers.
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#28
Wayne,

due this Thread: https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php...#pid158199

Just ordered 2 sets of Decals for CPR Fowler 36' Boxcars and paid by PayPal. Now let's wait Waiting 


Lutz
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#29
Several years ago, I rebuilt these two Bowser U-channel hoppers, to better-match their protoytpes, and used Black Cat decals....

   

...and now I'm working on another ten of them,  (and may upgrade the older two, also).  The newer cars will get Black Cat decals, too, as each set contains lettering for any one of the six lettering schemes used over the life of these cars, built in 1914, and still in revenue service in 1966, then the remaining cars were downgraded to MoW service.

The Black Cat decals are very well-done, and the ink is very opaque, offering nice crisp-looking lettering.

Wayne
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#30
Your work is very impressive Lutz. I like your solution to the truss rods.

I agree Wayne. I've used Black cat decals on a number of projects. The detail is very impressive to the point where everything including the smallest of lettering is legible, even if I have to use a magnifying glass.
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