WARP 10 Car Kits
#31
Hello,

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The next step were the steps. Here the base are parts from A-Line. As they will be mounted from the side, the upper parts were bend 90°.





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After mounting i formed the lower steps out of the brass stripe in the kit. Soldering is the only solution here at this exposed place.




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The completed undercarriage. Small pieces of styrene were glued into the gaps between truck bolsters and couple boxes to close them.




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Mounting the roof. Overnight cure for the glue.


Lutz
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#32
Hello,

next day the glue had hardened:

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Time to complete the car. Note overhang of the running board.




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The small details were mounted. The overhang of the running board has broken was was glued again after shortening a bit.




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The A-side.




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The completed car, ready for painting.


Lutz


N.B. Today 25th August 2020 the at the date of 16th August 2020 ordered Black Cat decals for the CPR cars were in the mailbox.
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#33
The car looks great, Lutz, and I'd say that's pretty quick mail service, too. Applause Applause Applause

Wayne
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#34
Hello,

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So i specify this 3 kits are done acording the mechanical built.
In the foreground the next kits from Westerfield.




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This time two XL boxcars of the PRR.




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Not so heavily warped, but still warped.




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The containment of one of these little plastic bags within the kit box.


@Wayne
Yes this was a astonishing quick delivery. I paid the equivalent of 20 CAD for them and had no hassle with customs because the value was below 22 €. So the envelope marched through.
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#35
Hello,

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Then i fetched my handbrush and solvent based coulors and started brushing.
Here they are presented behind a comtemporary 1890's locomotive.




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The ATSF car.




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CPR car #1.




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CPR car #2.

This was done in April and the cars were set aside because the lack of decals for it. Meanwhile the decals for the two CPR cars from Black Cat had arrived. For the ATSF car it will amount to whittle decals intended for more modern cars.


Lutz
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#36
Hello,

to bridge the gap, i begun to built the two XL boxcars:

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First task was to deburr the small castings. Here i used a motor tool with a soft silicone based grinding wheel. Choose the rpm's not too high and wear protective goggles.




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Fortunately these two kits were only slightly warped and some parts even were plain as this sidewall.




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The bottoms were pretty straight.




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But not the roof parts, note spherical warping.




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And all four end walls, also spherical warped.
Thinking of straightening and put some things redy for doing so.


Lutz
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#37
Hello,

to bridge the gap, i begun to built the two XL boxcars:

[Image: dsc030523bjwh.jpg]
First task was to deburr the small castings. Here i used a motor tool with a soft silicone based grinding wheel. Choose the rpm's not too high and wear protective goggles.




[Image: dsc03053tekvz.jpg]
Fortunately these two kits were only slightly warped and some parts even were plain as this sidewall.




[Image: dsc0305450kue.jpg]
The bottoms were pretty straight.




[Image: dsc03055nxjzq.jpg]
But not the roof parts, note spherical warping.




[Image: dsc030561aj6i.jpg]
And all four end walls, also spherical warped.
Thinking of straightening and put some things ready for doing so.


Lutz
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#38
Amazing work Lutz!
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#39
Hello,

found a resource for the PRR XL boxcars here in Big Blue: https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8877
See #2 article. Thanks Charlie B.
This boxcar looks onto the photo already battered and worn out.

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My arrangements to de-warp the front walls.




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One of them was so badly warped to legitimate extra measures to straighten it.




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Doing the first step to assemble the carbody.




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Stretch out or i going to hit you. Waiting
This was overnight hardening.


Lutz
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#40
Hello,

next day:

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Started over to complete the bodies.




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In the event the floors of both cars were about 1mm too narrow to fith the width of the front walls. This was resulting in gaps between floor and side walls.




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To close the gaps and to reinforce the bodies, i glued strips of 4x4mm ABS into the corners between floor and sidewall. At one car i had glued floor and sidewall directly before i become aware of the too small floors. Hence this car is a little bit asymmetrical ... 2238_innocent




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Therefor one sidewall of the other car was a liitle bit too short. Counterchecking resulted that all 4 corners were square at 90° angle ss they shoudl be.
I fixed this with a 0.5mm styrene strip.

You have no chance to built these kits without a certain talent of improvisation.


Lutz
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#41
Hello,

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My attempts to create useable roofs out of warped parts. Here both roof halves and the running board were glued together simultanously.




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Time to give thoughts about weighting the cars. I found in the inventory of my open frame scrapyard two salvaged Tenshodo motors of suitable size and weight.




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Don't worry about these motors, they have had life.
They are Ampere suckers and this without delivering adequate performance. Testing resulted in a amperage of 1.3 amps running free without any load and blocking them let the amperage rocket up over 5.0 amps (my ampmeter gave up here). And all this with no more power output like an tiny N-Scale motor. So do not shed any tears over them.
Here they have an useful afterlife.




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The next overnight glueing action.


Lutz
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#42
Hello,

at one car it does not cure as i expected:
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Taking some stronger force to close the gaps between walls and roof.




Meanwhile i took the opportunity to have a look onto some more car kits:
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These are the pieces of two open hopper of PRR origin. There are four of them with the decals already included.




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Still more badly warped than the box cars. And still more delicate than a box car kit.
So my resolution; before i will start assmembling these kits, they have to be perfect straight and even. The end details of these hopper cars are far too filligrane to set them under pressure while glueing. Whereat i assume the resin is as brittle as expienced before with the box cars.
The straightness of the parts is the key condition before i can start actually to tackle these kits here. I will start another experiment with the baking oven, but this time the temperature will be far more than 60°C. 


Lutz
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#43
I certainly have to hand it to you, Lutz, you're not daunted at all by these challenges. Worship Worship

One of the most unenjoyable kits I've built was also one of two from Westerfield.  The owner of the hobbyshop wanted $10.00 for a Fowler boxcar kit (which I wanted) but if I would also take the Westerfield kit for an old-style Norfolk & Western hopper, I could have the two cars for $9.00!

While the deal sounded pretty good, the N&W car was one which would have been very unusual appearing in Canada, especially in the late '30s-era of my layout.  I hemmed & hawed about it, but my good friend cn nutbar was with me, and he had just been offered an exceptionally good price on a brass CNR Northern (and I do mean EXCEPTIONALLY GOOD!!).
I think that he was worried that my stalling might negatively affect his good fortune, so he whipped-out his credit card, and said, "We'll take 'em, both!"

My original intention was to build the hopper for him, but once I got into the project, I realised why the kit would be a problem to build and extremely fragile if it even could be built.
As I worked on removing excess amounts of flash, the side and end castings began to break, or fall off completely, and as I read through the instructions, saw that it was "not recommended to drill for grabiron installation", due to the brittle nature of the resin...instead, the suggestion was to cement cut-to-length pieces of wire to the face of the ladder-stiles....not what I would consider an ideal way to create a sturdy model. 

I resorted to rebuilding some of the broken pieces by using ca to affix strip styrene to the back (normally unseen) sides of some of the broken end bracing, but when I again attempted to drill through for the grabirons, further breakage occurred.
I was on the verge of simply dropping all of the kit parts into the garbage, but it bothered me to think that I would give-up, and simply let these difficulties overwhelm me.

In the end, I did finish building the car, and even if it's a bit of an anachronism appearing in Lowbanks in the late '30s, at least it's not yet decided to fall apart...

   

In return for Mister Nutbar's generosity, I did a little repair work on his "new" Northern.

Wayne
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#44
Wayne,

you are what we called here in Germany a "Dickbrettbohrer". Worship 
It is hard to translate, but let me try a description. Dickbrettbohrer are such people who did not make a work around to appearing problems, but tackle and solve the problems itself.


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The next was the coupler boxes in conjuction with the end sills of the Penny box cars.
As is use Kadee whisker coupler heads, it is possible to shorten the coupler boxes.




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Cut off portion.




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Drill and tap.




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So it looks like now.




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My usual 3-point suspension.


Lutz
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#45
Hello,

time to write more here:

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Both PRR boxcars first time on their own wheels.




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Tackling the grab irons. The "Standard Railroad Of The World" had have indeed not so standard size grab irons. So you are obligated to bend these grab irons yourself.




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For the ladders the steps were cut fron this stripe of styrene in the kit.




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In a second stage the overlaying part of the steps were cut flush.




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The ancient brake gear. Only visible when you look direct to the underneath.


And this time as i write this post, the actual status of progress of building these car kits is reached.



Lutz
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