Remaking of the Ridley Keystone & Mountain
If you use a double pole single throw center off switch you can't accidently throw DC power to the DCC  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aW2egEcnOg&t=172s
I did this for a while but have eliminated the DC option now  all of my locomotives are DCC
Charlie
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(04-08-2022, 06:26 PM)Charlie B Wrote: If you use a double pole single throw center off switch you can't accidently throw DC power to the DCC  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aW2egEcnOg&t=172s
I did this for a while but have eliminated the DC option now  all of my locomotives are DCC
Charlie

Charlie thanks.

I have watched that video several times tonight.

I couldn't figure out what the switch was called but you provided the answer.

It will be some time before I can eliminate DC as 80% are DC. Of the DC maybe 15 to 20% are "DCC Ready". Be prepared for a ton of question about adding decoders and what type I should use.
Tom
Silence is golden but Duct tape is silver
Ridley Keystone & Mountain Railroad
My Rail Images Gallery
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In my search I found this.

http://www.rpc-electronics.com/dcdccswitch.php
Tom
Silence is golden but Duct tape is silver
Ridley Keystone & Mountain Railroad
My Rail Images Gallery
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Tom:
One warning. You must never let the DC and DCC meet. If you have one DC block and one DCC block and run a train between them, you can cook at least one of your power packs. Put the whole layout on one system or the other.

Also, your DCC auto-reversers will not do the job for DC.

I think that for switching between them, hefty DPDT switches would work. I'd look for automotive quality with a center-off. At least 5 amp rating.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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(04-08-2022, 07:14 PM)BR60103 Wrote: Tom:
One warning. You must never let the DC and DCC meet. If you have one DC block and one DCC block and run a train between them, you can cook at least one of your power packs. Put the whole layout on one system or the other.

Also, your DCC auto-reversers will not do the job for DC.

I think that for switching between them, hefty DPDT switches would work. I'd look for automotive quality with a center-off. At least 5 amp rating.

David, my intention is to go with the layout running all DC or all DCC, never a mix.

Thanks for the suggestion on the rating for the switch. With my limited knowledge of things electrical the amp rating was something I was worrying about.
Tom
Silence is golden but Duct tape is silver
Ridley Keystone & Mountain Railroad
My Rail Images Gallery
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Tom: I'm not in DCC but about 20 years ago I did the math for a friend who was.
IIRC, the DCC supplies gave out either 5 or 7 amps. You'd need a lot of locos to pull that much -- or two old Athearns.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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I, like Deano, run the MRC Prodigy advance squared. I have an additional 8 amp booster which gives me a total of a little more than 11 amps. I currently have the layout divided into  5 power districts protected with Voltscooters set at 3 amps. I can easily run 15 locomotives at once (on different districts) and I have had over 30 idling in the yards. I used an 1156 bulb in series  with the main district wiring for protection against shorts until I discovered the voltscooters.  It is amazing how little current the new locomotives draw and that includes the Athearn locomotives from the 80's and up. 

Many of my locomotives are sound equipped and it can really get obnoxious so I like the fact they can be muted  I use the NCE DS13sr decoders in everything I have converted. A 10 pack can be had here. https://jasonshobbydepot.com/product/nce...w-524-121/  for a reasonable price, and I have found amber LEDs give a more desirable look to the older models for headlights. I add a 1000 ohm resistor to keep the LED from blowing out.  

There is also an option to run the trains with your phone so I have a couple throwaway trakfones for throttles too. 

Woodone is the DCC man on board  here and we need a good excuse to keep him active. Both him and Deano helped me in the beginning. 

Enjoy the trains/ Cheers
Charlie
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I added a bumper to the end of the coal trestle.

[Image: f3npbUV.jpg]

What is next? I don't know. Some possibilities are:
* Wire the other side of the layout.
* Add details at and around the coal yard
* Work on parking lot and access road to the coal yard.
* Add mortar lines to already assembled buildings
* Streets around the passenger station
* Blend in terrain at the Cement Company
*Ballast more track
Tom
Silence is golden but Duct tape is silver
Ridley Keystone & Mountain Railroad
My Rail Images Gallery
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The DC/DCC toggle switch I ordered arrived. I hooked it up and gave it a test which was successful. Now I don't have to rewire the layout every time I want to switch from DC to DCC. I need to build something to hold the DCC panel, the toggle switch, and the circuit breaker.

The only draw back is the indicator lights don't work. They apparently require their own power source.

[Image: Y4r3Yq2.jpg]
Tom
Silence is golden but Duct tape is silver
Ridley Keystone & Mountain Railroad
My Rail Images Gallery
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Good looking coaling area!
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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