Do you leave truck mounted couplers on passenger cars, or do you cut them off and body mount?  I am talking about cars longer than about 60 scale feet  

I think leaving them truck mounted would help them stay coupled on curves. I have never tried body mounting couplers on an Athearn car, so I don't know if it can still negotiate tighter curves or switches.  Being passenger cars, I wouldn't expect too many reverse moves that usually are bad news for truck mounted couplers.  Advantage to body mounting is for backing, and to better detail the car ends.  

Right now working on a 60' MDC car, and debating what to do.

Hello,

I am modelling a L shaped layout with a rural grain theme.  I picked the Walthers Scenemaster wheat which comes on 3 inch rows.
My questions is what do people suggest to 'plant' this wheat in? I have painted the insulation board a mid brown.

I liked the ploughed ridges that come with a crop field but as this part of a larger unseen wheat field is on a curve I wont have straight rows as the follow the bend in the track?

Any suggestions what to plant this crop in/on?

Is MR becoming vaporware? My April copy is only 68 (counting the cover pages) pages long??? I get ad circulars in the mail that are bigger than that. 

TV-71 at RailPort.

Bruce

   

looking for #4 turnouts  at a reasonable price if brass looking for white brass ones. these are for a diorama so don't need powered ones .

It's been a while since we had a challenge of any kind, I know folks are busy and may not have the time to devote to one, but I'm just wondering, that's all. Does anyone have any ideas of what we can do for a new challenge? Not too clever, not too complicated and given enough time that even those that are super-busy with other things can participate. We used to have at least one or two challenges a year, that may not be realistic in today's world, but I thought I'd test the waters anyway.

Anyone have any ideas?

WPMA-29 passes empty container flats as it makes it's way through Chestnut Neck.

Bruce

   

Can anyone recommend a good dremel that I could purchase in the Toronto area? I'd be looking at stores such as Canadian Tire or Home Depot, etc. I'd be mainly using this to neatly and evenly cut pieces of plastic. If possible, I wouldn't want to spend more than $50-70 if that's realistic. I'd mostly use this for model trains but there is, of course, the chance I'd use it for other jobs.

I have some 00 scale British coaches that I'm cutting up and reassembling to make them more realistic. Cutting these with a hobby knife is do-able but messy -- and it's very easy to make an error.

Thanks in advance, Rob

Hello,

a few years ago, exactly said 2017, i purchased this loco:


There were many little bugs with this model loco which kept the price on an comparably low level.





Some missing and bent parts like the railings on the pilot deck.





Or a absent rivet of the valve gear.


Besides of these bugs listed above, the model was running jerky and was jamming although a coreless coil motor was fitted.


Lutz

How to bridge open areas of the layout to connect and keep continuous the main lines in a way to provide access to internal walkways within your layout. It always starts out with duck under bridging. Yes, here you are a younger person building a larger layout using all the space you have. Solidly constructed bridging sections work perfectly for you. Nothing moves and everything stays in place. Ah, the wonderful world of Model Railroading is now yours.
 Things change! A hurried attempt to pass under the main line has caused a red painful bump to appear on your forehead. It all happened so fast there wasn’t much to remember but the cause, the attempt, and the result. Well, something needs to be done! The information available in layout-related magazines and books all point to one fix, a removable or hinged track section.
  My first attempt actually worked rather well. My 2 track bridge hinged down. When lifted it fits up into a restricted place where no left or right movement was possible. Once up at the correct height, a metal supporting piece hinged up underneath, and a pin held it in place allowing no movement in any direction except slightly up to allow for the metal support to be un-pined.
   Next, I saw in a railroad magazine a gate type of movable bridge hinged on one side allowing 90 degrees of movement creating a swinging gate. Well, I abandoned my lift-type bridge to build a swinging gate type. Now knowing what has happened I should have remained with the lift type. I am certain I can get my swinging gate type bridge alining better after some more additional work.
frank