Some time ago I tried a wash based an PollyS grimy black instead of pure (engine) black. It was my intention to find a softer darkener in the same sense as we use light gray instead of white for a mortal wash on brick walls.
The effect was a surprise. It look like PollyS mixes grimy black from black and some kind of light gray. If that is used in a wash the light gray dominates the black. It looks like a wash with dust. As I mix the wash with alcohol and distilled water all shine is destroyed and the surface is very flat. The object does not look really dirty but used. The color looks bleached but not darkened. It is a nice alternative for a black wash.



The above example shows the direction. In real is the weathering effect stronger but my photo skill is to low to get that details.
The trucks got a deluded mix of brown and black. They look more dirty than on the photo.

The Ft. Wayne RHS has begun a program to fund equipment upgrades for NP #765...Here's the release:http://aroundfortwayne.info/blog/?p=10085 Bob C.

I am curious as to what others here do for passenger car interiors. I have never put an interior in a passenger car, but I have used window shades to partially obstruct the interior view. I have always felt that you can't see much through the windows anyway. Now I have a MDC Harriman observation car, and it has rather large windows. I am considering adding some kind of interior. Any suggestions here?

Just trying to raise a little more $$$ for Timonium this weekend so I can come back with more stuff!
I have the following Atlas code 100 sectional track for sale. All track is gently used and some extra has been thrown in but not listed. I have posted direct form the Atlas web site so you can see for yourself this would over $300 if purchased new asking $90 buyer pays shipping I accept USPS money orders only and ship via USPS priority mail.
Thanks for looking. Please contact me via email if interested.

Ho-Code 100 Manual Snap Switch Left
List Price: $14.25
Quantity: (5)

Ho-Code 100 Manual Snap Switch Right
List Price: $14.25 per EACH
Quantity: (3)

Ho Code 100 9" Straight Track – Bulk
List Price: $1.25 per EACH
Quantity (17)

Ho-Code 100 6" Straight Track 6/per
List Price: $4.00 per EACH
Quantity (9)

Ho Code 100 15" Radius Track – Bulk
List Price: $1.25 per EACH
Quantity (12)

Ho Code 100 22" Radius Track – Bulk
List Price: $1.25 per EACH
Quantity (44)

Ho Code 100 Rerailer – Bulk
List Price: $8.25 per EACH
Quantity (6)

Ho-Code 100 1/2 15" Radius Track 6/per
List Price: $4.00 per EACH
Quantity (13)

Ho-Code 100 1/2 18" Radius Track 4/per
List Price: $4.00 per EACH
Quantity (10)

Ho-Code 100 Bumpers
List Price: $3.95 per EACH
Quantity (1)

Ho-Code 100 Track Assortment
List Price: $5.25 per EACH
Quantity (1)

Ho Code 100 45° Crossing
List Price: $10.50 per EACH
Quantity (1) Brass

Ho Code 100 30° Crossing
List Price: $10.50 per EACH
Quantity (1)

If purchased new $306.30

$90.00

Railcop sent this to me and because he is so busy, I'll post it here, but he deserves the credit for finding it. These are awesome pictures.
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Charlie

Do any of you have ideas for making desert scenery, like cactus and joshua trees, I am looking to do it in N Scale.

Well... I spent all day yesterday laying down 6 engine tracks, wiring, and putting on/off switches to each one so's I can turn them off while the locos await their tour of duty..., and I go to try each one out. Turns out the bridge on the turntable has about 1/8" of "slop", it can move (in the "direction" it came from), so, even a minor move of the engine as it crosses from the table to the track will cause the bridge to move and derail the engine.... Also, power to the bridge is intermittent, so driving on or off requires a little "help" to move the engine....
Does anyone here have one of these, and how does it work for you..?? Any hints or tips to make the @%@$* thing work right..??

Starting point: Beat up Life-Like 40 foot boxcar from the bargain bin at the LHS. Missing both doors, broken stirrups, missing wheels, horn-hook truck-mounted couplers, and sanp-in trucks.

   

   

Goal: Create a servicable boxcar similar to the prototype photo. The photo is from 1979. Note the ACI label and the wheel dot. Also, the roofwalk has been removed and the ladders have been shortened. (Image linked from <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.rrpicturearchives.net">http://www.rrpicturearchives.net</a><!-- m -->)

   

First, the model is not quite exactly like the prototype. It has different ends, and has riveted sides instead of welded. That's okay by me, I won't bother with reconstructing those items. After all, I'm really just after a useable car, not an exact match.

Mechanically, I will bodymount Kadee couplers, replace the trucks with screw-attached trucks/metal wheels, and replace the steel weight with lead.

Aesthetically, I will replace the broken stirrups, replace the door slider rails with smaller ones, replace the molded on grab irons,and install doors (perhaps in the open position as shown, which will require some detailing of the floor). I'll also either trim the ladders down to half height, or perhaps shave them completely off and go with new ladders (can't see the brake wheel end, so not sure if they lowered the brake wheel or not... will make that decision later). I may add brake hardware under the chassis a la DocWayne if I get up the gumption. The factory lettering and blue plastic is satisfactory, but the data on the right side of the car will be replaced to match the photo. I'll add the ACI label, lube plate, and wheel dot. Now, the hard part... the roofwalk is molded on, and will have to be removed. I'll carve it off and rebuild the roof under the roofwalk. Add a bit of weathering, and we are there.

For this challenge I'm going to take this pile of old Varney and lifelike caboose parts     and turn them into two of these.     I'll be removing the old molded on grab irons and replacing them with wire ones, updating the end detail, and a few other things.

Some wild stuff here. Not to my taste, but some of the weathering is good.

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