I just discovered what you guys already know most likely...

You can use Code 55 rail joiners on Code 80 track. They seem to grip tightly, and are almost unseen on the rails.

Does anyone have any experience using them? Good or bad reviews?

Hi Guys,

After reading new posts on several threads i could only see the latest page ..... and not start reading from the beginning on them ....... is there a reason for this please :?:

Couple weeks ago, I had the chance to travel sans family to see some of the railway spots in Southern Ontario that I've had on my list for a long time. While it did not prove to be a Canadian version of the Gauge get together from earlier this summer, it was still an excellent trip. Unfortunately, several southern Ontario Gaugers were unavailable, but Spitfire was up for anything, and was an excellent guide and host to boot! Thanks!!

Saturday afternoon was spent poking around at the former Canadian Pacific Railway John Street Roundhouse. Situated in the shadow of the CN Tower and the Rogers Centre (formerly the SkyDome) this relic of Canadian railway history is now home to Steamwhistle Breweries (<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.steamwhistle.ca/">http://www.steamwhistle.ca/</a><!-- m -->), Leon's Furniture, and most importantly, the Toronto Railway Historical Society museum (<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.trha.ca/">http://www.trha.ca/</a><!-- m -->).

The TRHA is building an impressive collection that will be housed in three stalls of the roundhouse, the machine shop, and outdoors around the restored turntable and coal tower. Nearby sites (and sights ) will be linked with historic walks, including such destinations as Union Station and the former offices of Canadian Northern.

Let's take a look around:

Don Valley Station
You can see where this little station was sawn in half to transport it to the site.

[albumimg]1191[/albumimg]
[albumimg]1197[/albumimg]

Interlocking Tower
One wall is currently plywood, as the original was removed to get the interlocking mechanisms (8 tonnes) out for restoration.

[albumimg]1231[/albumimg]

The Roundhouse
Say what you will about the Leon's moving in, but they have reportedly been very supportive, including putting up some significant $$$ in support of the museum.

Inside
The best look at the inside is in the Steamwhistle Brewery, where other than cleaning up and pouring a new floor, the interior remains pretty much the same.

[albumimg]1192[/albumimg]
[albumimg]1193[/albumimg]

Outside
Interesting details on the back wall and some big (big!) doors.

[albumimg]1187[/albumimg]
[albumimg]1196[/albumimg]

Walthers Tank Set?

[albumimg]1186[/albumimg]

Coal Tower

[albumimg]1194[/albumimg]

Assorted Engines
Since I only have eyes for the steam power, you'll have to fill in the rest for me...

[albumimg]1190[/albumimg]
[albumimg]1189[/albumimg]
[albumimg]1195[/albumimg]

And a mural showing how things used to be. This is painted on the wall of the access to underground parking for SkyDome/Rogers Centre that faces the Leon's entrance and is built into the side of the coal tower.

[albumimg]1188[/albumimg]

After we had toured the site (and missed the free beer from Steamwhistle ) we headed of in search of a couple of hobby shops. First we found John's Camera & Hobbies *link* - with lots of hobbies (trains, models, doll houses, R/C, planes) but little camera gear in evidence. I picked up a couple of trucks, and this vintage reefer lettered for Sudbury (Ontario) Breweries, shown on Val's layout (Parkdale Yard):

[albumimg]1199[/albumimg]

A trip down through the Don Valley and under the Parkway (via the very interesting Todmorden Mills (cool name too!)) was unfortunately unphotographed. However, it was like stepping out of Toronto into a little turn-of-the-previous-century village - but only briefly! Our destination was George's Trains *link* on Mount Pleasant, but they have unfortunately closed that landmark location in favour of their new, more northerly location.

Saturday night I was treated to a steak dinner, and then we headed down to see what other interesting interchange traffic was at Parkdale Yard:

[albumimg]1200[/albumimg]
[albumimg]1201[/albumimg]

I also got a chance to look at some of Spitfire's outstanding large scale modelling. For those of you that don't know, she's also an award-winning 1/6 scale military modeller. Her WW2 scenes are incredible.

Hey all. I've been searching high and low for anything I can find on the old Apache Railway company between McNary and the old logging camp of Maverick. I have found bits and pieces here and there but along the way, I came across this site...
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.azrymuseum.org/collection/Main_Index.html">http://www.azrymuseum.org/collection/Main_Index.html</a><!-- m -->
Really neat stuff for you Arizonans and maybe for those non Arizonans as well!

here are some air brushing tips.....


Tip 1. to use the right gun for the job.. as most of you know the right tool makes the job you have to do a lot easier.
well here is the diff in the guns that you will use for air brushing .

single phase or also called single action. this is a good starter gun . it is easy to find and they are cheap.
how it works . with a single action gun you push down on trigger to get paint and air and you pull back on trigger to get wider lines most single action guns have a needle of a .04mm or bigger.and they are bottom feed .

Dubble phase or dubble action. is the best guns out. easy to find ,but costs much more.
how it works . with a dubble action you push down on the trigger you get air and when you pull back the trigger you get paint. most guns have a .02mm needle. and can paint hair line lines they are also found in either buttom feed, top feed or side feed and you can even get them with air p.s.i control right on the gun also called m.a.c.


now on to paints. you can use any thing form inks to auto paints with any gun with the right thinning.

inks. are good to learn how to air brush they are cheap. and you can also use the to do weathering.

water base acrylic paint. you can find this in most model paints, craft paints.
model paints are common and alot of people use them cost around 1.00 - 7.00 a bottle.
craft paint. is a good sub for model paint. cost around .50 - 1.50 a bottle.
all acrylics are easy to thin and have great coverage.

enamel paint. this is used in the rc and auto graphics.
enamels cost 4.50- 9.00 bottle.
are used to do rc cars and in the auto graphics.

Thinning. this is the big qustion. what is the right mix alot of people say 4:1, 5:1 ect,ect

WELL NO MATTER WHAT PAINT YOU THIN YOU WANT IT TO BE THIN AS A GLASS OF MILK. SOME PAINT NEED MORE THINNING THAN OTHER OF THE SAME BRAND.

THIN TILL IT LOOKS LIKE A GLASS OF MILK. ........................................

start with paint and slowly add you thinner..

a good mix for acrylic paint get you a bottle and fill it this way.

1/2 water from tap or bottled water.
1/4 rubbing alchol.
1/4 window cleaner.
you will get a great thinner. and prep cleaner all in one .
this mix will dry great and clean up easier off your guns.


Air sorce.

a good starter air sorce is a tank less but as time goes by you will upgrade to a tank . a good size is from 1-5 gal.
A MUST HAVE " WATER TRAP" AND AIR REGULATOR" ...........



thanks for reading and hope this can help with some unanswered qustion.

7 year-old boy rides 50 miles on freight train

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.kctv5.com/news/20211331/detail.html">http://www.kctv5.com/news/20211331/detail.html</a><!-- m -->


Andrew

While I don't understand German, it was still entertaining...
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/exhibit/video/fun-video/film/article/hip-hop-meets-model-railway-samy-deluxe-stumm/">http://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/exhi ... uxe-stumm/</a><!-- m -->

I was expecting a package today, and have been tracking it on a carriers web site. It isn't a parcel post package, and it is not coming UPS so to my knowledge that leaves another carrier that I won't mention. Anyway I got an e-mail tonight that said the package was "Undeliverable" The reason....catch this one....No attempt was made.
Now this is the third or forth time that this carrier has failed to deliver on time over the last 2 years. One time it took over 2 weeks to get the package I had ordered, and it had been shipped with special attention by a hobby shop because it was Christmas gifts. The reason that time was the regular driver had broken his leg. I really find this kind of thing totally unacceptable, but I guess it is a sign of the times.
Anyone else ever seen this? "No attempt made" is not what I call a valid reason.
Charlie

Gentlemen.....Does some one that has one of these know if it comes with a factory installed decoder..??
I have one that is giving me a bit of trouble, so I thought I'd change the decoder, but when I opened the tender, I see a decoder-like board in there that I don't recognize...And I can't recall ever taking the loco apart to install one in there...

Anyone..??

I noticed something interesting the other night when I accidentally knocked off a piece of blue foamboad that I had glued to my layout. I had used liquid nails as glue, but where the glue once was was now a cavity. It seems the liquid nails had "eaten" some of the foam. This was much more apparent on the cut edge of the foam rather than the original flat side.

I have used two types of liquid nails - liquid nails for projects (with a red lable, I think), and one that says liquid nails for projects & "foamboad adhesive". Both seem to have the same problem. After re-reading the label on the back, it says not recoomended for gluing "foamboard to foamboard". I bought a different brand of foamboard adhesive last night, and have yet to test it out.

Has anyone else had this problem? What have you used to glue foam to foam?