RS Laser Kits - redneck garage

[torikoos]

yep spotted the door 'issue', but it being a run down structure, anything is possible :-)

Lovely kit, and nicely executed. I was a bit worried seeing the warped sheet out of the package, but that seems to have had no impact.

What did you use as glue for this kit? Carpenters wood glue, gel type CA, or something else?

Thanks!

Koos

[ak-milw]

Sorry I don't see it.



8-)

[Steve]

The bracing should be like this:


I've done that myself

[BR60103]

In an article on door framing, the author reminded us at the end that, just because it was the proper way to do it didn't mean that the door on the prototype would be done that way.

[Mr Fixit]

Okay, just to provide anyone reading this thread who maybe making a future model or real structure I will provide the following theory for you to understand what is going on and why.

If you look at Steve's drawing, good drawing btw, you will notice that the green braces point upwards to support the upper corners of the doors, this is because gravity is trying to drag down the weight of the door at these points and timber is much stronger in compression [pushing] than it is in tension [pulling], so the diagonal brace transfers the weight to the hinge side of the door frame and the hinges transfer the weight of the door to the structure.
Also by placing the braces diagonally you end up creating triangular shapes which are very strong and help to resist the "racking" created by gravity and other forces. If you look back at the photos of the roof trusses you will notice that they create a series of triangular shapes within the truss triangle and they are designed to strengthen the truss and share the loadings.

You could place the braces in tension as you do with a wire brace, but then you are trying to work against gravity and it is trying to constantly open up the joints. By having the brace in compression [pushing] gravity is working to keep the joint closed, so less stress on the joint.

You will also find that hinges at the top and middle of a door frame will spread due to the weight of a heavy door and this will cause the tops of doors to rub against the door jamb if single or each other in the case of a pair like shown. The easiest fix [if possible] is to swap top and bottom hinges instead of planning doors or checking hinges, failing that swap the hinges for new ones. Many tradies/carpenters dont realise that this is the solution as they only look at the rub point not the true cause. Logical cause and effect analysis is not a strong suit with many tradies and other people.

What BR60103 is also correct as people make mistakes and/or improvised solutions. I have seen panel doors hung upside down with the long panel down because someone thought they "looked better that way", even though the fat kick rail was now at the head. It happens, go figure.

I hope this helps with your modelling or even with real doors at home.
Mark

[ak-milw]

now I remember why I left this forum 15 years ago.



8-)

[Steve]

Check out the set of double doors under the "Gulf" sign on this Barmills model kit:

http://www.barmillsmodels.com/index.php?...temid=1123

Interesting.....

[Mr Fixit]

Most interesting Steve.
One set of doors, on the skillion roof shed on right is done correctly, but the main doors under the Gulf sign are wrong, which is why I wrote up my explanation to hopefully help other Big Blue members avoid the problem in the future.

Andy, we are not "having a go" at your fine modelling, just trying to politely point out the error so you can fix it if you like.
Now, would you rather your friends here pointed this out or some rivet-counter pointing it out on a fine model you had entered in a contest at a show?

Mistakes happen, but I would rather a friend pointed it out than some annoying rivet counter at a show.
I remember a couple of years ago someone here was making a rail bridge over a highway underpass and when I looked at the structural steel set up, my brain said "Whoa there, that aint right" and after I politely pointed out the error, they re-examined their photos and saw their mistake, and were able to correct it.

Speaking of mistakes, I was just washing some work gear and I somehow ended up washing a 1/4" washer and some small bits of grit. How? Damned if I know, as I checked all the pockets before throwing the items in the wash.
Mark

[Prairie Trains]

Re: RS Laser Kits - redneck garage

Postby ak-milw » Mar 4th, '15, 22:4

now I remember why I left this forum 15 years ago.

ak-milw I would like to commend you on your beautifully built and accurate model of the redneck garage. Please do not let the remarks of a few who can't grasp the concept of period modeling get you down. Four or five years ago I think I came across your modeling on another forum and was very impressed with it, but was unable to find it again. So please don't stop posting here because I for one will be watching with grate envy.

At first I only read a couple of lines of this persons post because he came across to me as a I know more than you person that didn't have a clue.

If you would let me I would like to point out all of his mistakes. Most of us model a time period and this I believe is set in the 1950s. So lets assume this garage had a prototype that would have been built on a farm some time in the first half of the last century (engineered trusses appeared long before the second world war) and on farms of that period money was usually scarce so it would have been built by the farmer. During that time and even today most farmers where jack of all trades but masters of none. But they could do a pretty good job of almost anything. So first tell me what a 21st century code book has to do with this other than to brag about ones self? The farmer building this had to fallow no codes so he never used bracing to save on material thus money. He probably would not have known the difference between compression and tension strength of wood, and may have liked the look of the trim all slanted the same way. This would make the building look unique and is that not what we strive for in model railroading? Mr. ak-milw I believe your model is 100% accurate for that time period and well done.

[faraway]

....now I remember why I left this forum 15 years ago.....

I have not been here 15 years ago but I am glad you are here now

[ak-milw]

Hey everyone thanks for the comments, but I don't post things for the pat on the back I put things out there so other folks get ideas. I never said I was going anywhere I just remembered why I left. I started out on the original Guage with Shamus, Catt, Robin and a few others that are still left. I mainly scratchbuild all my buildings but once and awhile I will do a kit. I put the door together without thinking it through because it is a kit and I figured the mfg. would have figured it all out. I also sent the maker of the kit a nasty e-mail pointing out his failure and that this might just bring an end to the world as we know it. He sent one back saying he was sorry and that he would probably jump off a bridge in shame. So lets just let this go and I will get back to modeling.



8-)

[ak-milw]

I almost forgot, Koos I used Elmers wood glue.



8-)

[Steve]

I'm not sure that was the right glue to use.... :-o
Ain't I a stinker!

Keep up the always excellent work my friend!

[ak-milw]

RIGHT!!



8-)

[torikoos]

Cheers Andy,

BTW , I didn't critize the door, I think it's fun, even if it was unintentional. Adds extra character to this building (or what's left of it).

I also don't post for the pat on the back, I post for the 'sharing in the fun', and to learn. If I can help others, I will, but in no way is it a competition or a way to 'show off' in the ' oh look at me being clever' way... :-)

Koos