On this plan of a CP Mini Box (Funaro & Camerlengo kit), the fixed end of the small brake lever (A end) is on the left of the car, same side as the cylinder.  It was the same with my last Westerfield kit (CP USRA Clone Boxcar).

   

On most cars I have built, the fixed end was on the other side.

Is it an error?  If not, how can this work?

I finally sat down and began working on the first part of my 2022 kitbuild challenge.

The first kit is Bob's Hot Dog Stand by Model Power.



I opened the kit and looked at the parts. There are not many. I did find out the kit was made by Pola. The name is stamped on the bottom of the base.



To begin I painted the door, windows frame, and counter. I discovered the graphics for signs are stickers. I placed four of them on the appropriate signs. There are four more to do.

WPMA-29 making a pick up at Jersey Cold Storage.

Bruce

   

has anyone else been having trouble with KD #5 coupler springs popping out , had 8 or 9 cars that did this on one or both ends  replaced springs and they popped out too so the second time I replaced them I put a dab of UV set glue on them and so far they have stayed in. this a new package of 20 pairs .
Jim

well got started on the bash and boy its a challenge all right the original builder must have used 1/2 a tube of cement on it as you can see its in sad shape         got it striped down to what I will save front wall is gone will be replaced with a freight  door , all the  other windows and doors will be replaced with Tichy ones  second story will be for road agent to live .       
jim

(03-14-2022, 07:28 PM)BR60103 Wrote: Tom:  Could you do a description of how you modify the Athearn cars to put screws in the couplings?

I had another modeller give me a Kadee Skeleton log car to build for him (Kit#102) After I built that one I decided to build the three that have been sitting on my shelf for a couple years. Now that I'm building a layout with a dedicated logging area and sawmill these will be prefect. I already built the one for the other modeler but I'll take you through the building of the others.
   

   

The entire car is cast white metal for weight and the parts are in sealed plastic bags.
   

I did some initial cleanup but most of the casting and pretty clean and flash free. Any flash that was on there cleaned up in only a few minutes.
I didn't entirely follow that instructions step-by-step for the build after I built the first, some things I found were better the assemble before others due to the fragile nature of some parts and assemblies.  For instance, the instructions want you to build the entire brake system before attaching the  coupler pockets. I found that the coupler pockets can take a good amount of force to get the on and it's better to attach them first than to damage the brake components.

   

The brake wheel is attached to the 'b' end coupler pocket. It and the brake chain is pinned with a 1/2" nail that is pinched at both ends to hold everything in place.

   

Finished assembly, ready for installation.

I then installed the coupler pockets and  assembled the brake system.

   

I did appreciate how almost all the components fit where they were supposed to. I did have to do a bit of trimming of the brake rods but that was about it. The frame is pre-drilled so I didn't have to drill any holes, just glue the parts in with either thin or gel CA.

Did you ever tip a bottle full of Micro Set?  I did it twice before learning the lesson.

Now I use the cap of a spray can.

   

Efficient and free

I screwed up !!

Today I was working on this particular corner where I had (have) plans for the coal mine. I am using the Wathers New River Kit, and I thought I had it all thought out as to how it was going to rest on some foamboard I had fashioned to cover the 2 mainline helix tracks running under it.
For some reason I fashioned that foamboard in 2 levels rather than just one,...I don't know why I did that. The problem now is that the 3 tracks under the loader are now at least 1+3/8" too low. It would be nice it I could replace that double level foamboad with a single level one,  BUT that would screw up a couple of things,..1) I can't go lower as I need the higher level in order for double stack cars to run on those mainlines beneath it, and 2) I can't go to the higher option as I can't make the access tracks that steep.

What are my options? Do I dare to try and cut (section) that mine kit down by perhaps 1.25",...or  ??

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Brian

WPMA-29 passes thru Lubbers Run.  The flat cars are part of WPMA-61 transfer run to Camden.

Bruce