I was viewing my photobuckt album this afternoon and i noticed i had close to 30 separate albums that could be combined and organized better to find things easier. i started re-arranging the albums (for example: putting all layout and module albums under one main album, with sub-albums for each layout or module in the main album).

Well i wasnt paying attention, and i didnt bother to read that ALL THE LINKS GET BROKEN WHEN MOVING THEM! Man did i screw up, i was on the last album that i was moving when i finally read the warning! Man this really sucks, im not sure i can take the time to re-do all my threads and fix all the picture links, i mean i have a few threads that have 100-150 pictures at least in them, that would take hours to go through and fix them all

Well my photobucket album is all nice and organized now, but now im screwed in all the threads i have with pictures in them, here and on all the other forums i belong to Ohhh man, i need to get off the computer and take a break and go grab a bite to eat, i might just loose it if i dont

I occasionally browse through model railroader magazines from the 80s or early 90s, and compare the modeling seen therein to what I see today. I notice a marked difference in detail levels - with today's modelers adhering to higher detail standards not just with their rolling stock, but with their structures and layouts in general.

It is true that commercial products have improved details, and a highly detailed model is much cheaper than it used to be. for example, one can pick up a bachmann spectrum steamer for a hundred bucks today, but 30 years ago one would have had to spend more money on imported brass to get that level of detail. So, it is much easier for someone to have a higher detail standard than they did 30 years ago.

But 30 years ago there were no digital cameras. I never took close-up photos of my models until I bought a digital camera about 6 years ago. I would think most of us were the same way. One needs to have a decent film camera and lenses in order to take close-up pictures of models. A point and shoot 35mm camera simply doesn't cut it. And - that film needed developing, and it would often take something larger than a 4x6 print to see much detail on a model photo. Plus, the developing lag time didn't allow for instant scrutiny of the photography or the modeling subject.

I have noticed that evan my relatively cheap 4 megapixel digital camera can capture model details quite well if I give it proper lighting. And, I can plug it into my computer to get nearly instant feedback. I have noticed myself caring more about smaller details than I did before - some of them are details small enough that one's eyes will never be able to see well in person - but the camera will catch them. If I didn't have a camera, or never planned on photographing my trains, I think I wouldn't bother with such details and never notice that they were missing.

The digital photograph is a good critic. Do you think that the advancement of digital cameras, and the nearly ubiquitous ownership of them has pushed our hobby to a higher detail threshold?

I really enjoy railfanning...but it always happens by accident. I just happen to be in the right place at the right time, with camera in hand. What I'd really like to do, is be able to KNOW when I can snap photos of passing trains, instead of stumbling into it. How do you guys become Johnny on the Spot?

Are you listening to local dispatcher's radio channels?

Do you just know the schedule? If so, where might I find such info.

Any tips are appreciated!

Some of you may be aware that ballasting has never been one of my favorite activities....
All the fiddling with getting the loose ballast to stay in one place, and spreading it out so it looks half-way decent has never appealed to me...particularly the coaxing of little rocks with the proverbial soft brush....But a man has to do what he's gotta do, so I bit the bullet and went ahead....Since I have close to 30 feet of track to do this time around, by the time I had only done a few feet my patience started to wear thin, and I chucked the darn brush and resorted to this.....



No....You're not seeing things...I'm using my fingers to spread the ballast...!! And it's a snap...What's more....It looks better since you actually press the ballast into place...!!! Note that I use the "flat" side of the finger, not the tips. The ballast will stick to your fingertips since they're much softer than the rest of the finger.

The only stragglers are the "rocks" that get caught on the spike heads, and those I remove using a bamboo skewer..



Note also that I pre-ballast the shoulders using glue and letting them dry before applying ballast to the track. This helps to keep the track portion of the ballast in place, and you use way less ballast than if you try to "build" the shoulders using only ballast.

I also use a "square" spoon that I salvaged from some coffee can, and it's the perfect size for placing the ballast initially between the tracks. It's rather trickier to spread the ballast evenly using a "round" spoon. Once everything is in its place, I finish the job using the tried & true method for gluing the ballast in place.



I figure that going "brushless" cut the time and effort to about a third, or more, of what I used to spend doing it the "old" way....Now I'm looking forward to getting the rest of the ballasting done.....

Hope this helps some of you who also suffer from "ballastophobia"....

Due to a few no additions to my locomotive fleet I have a a Spectrum 2-8-0 and a Spectrum vanderbilt Hicken tender I will most likely never use. I decided to list them here and give everyone here a chance at them before sending them off to ebay.

The spectrum 2-8-0 is for the most part new and has only been test run for a brief period. I have never installed the couplers and they are still sealed in their plastic bag. The locomotive and tender are undecorated ( item #11410 ) and are factory pained black. The original box is included and does have some tape on one corner. Unfortunatly I cannot find the paper work for the locomotive. The locomotive runs fine and is the DC version ( no DCC or sound ). Nothing is missing or broken on the locomotive or tender.
I am asking $75 for the 2-8-0 plus actual shipping cost. SOLD

   

   



The second item is a Spectrum undecorated vanderbilt Hicken tender. ( item #89911 ). The tender is new in the box and has never been used. I bought it to use behind either the 2-8-0 listed above or behind a Athearn Genesis 2-8-2. The tender comes in its original box ( in excellent shape ) with the instructions. It is a very nice tender with 6 wheel trucks that would look great behind any medium to heavy steamer. I was going to do a little kitbashing on it and give it a Canadian look.
I am asking $20 for the tender plus actual shipping cost.

   

One more locomotive to add to the for sale list. This one is an Athearn Genesis 2-8-2. I bought this one to kitbash into a CNR S-3-a but I will not be needing it as well. When I bought it it had a split axle gear which was a problem with the Genesis 2-8-2. I have replaced the axle gear with a new NWSL replacement gear.The locomotive runs great again and with the NWSL gear there will be no fear of the gear breaking again. I am not sure if the tender included with it is the correct tender but it is the one I got with it. I am also including a spare Genesis 2-8-2 tender that I have hanging around. The locomotive was missing some small detail parts when I got it as well as the boiler handrails and stanchions. I will supply the buyer with some precision Scale Company brass stanchions as well as a couple of pieces of 0.020" brass wire so they can make the boiler handrails for it. It is also missing the bell but if I find one I will include it as well. The locomotive is set for DC running ( no DCC or sound ) and the headlight works. it has a Kadee #5 coupler on the tender.There is no box or instructions but I can email the buyer a copy of the instructions or a link to where they can be found.
I am asking $60 plus actual shipping cost. I have added a reply post with pictures of it. SOLD



If intersted send me a message. I can except payment by money order, paypal, interact email money transfer from Canadian buyers and personal cheque if you do not mind waiting for it to clear. Seeing as I have never sold anything here if you need reference check out my ebay user name JJJWAR. Thanks.

Wayne Reid

I started this project some years ago, and "other things" decided to take precedence over the construction. I've decided to try to have these done by next (2010) July, in time to possibly be at the NMRA convention "National Train Show" in Milwaukee, Wi.
This would be a good time to document the "build", and include any of the tips, tricks, techniques I have used, or have recently learned and will use, here.
I had posted these two shots on another forum. The first is the basic 30" X 48" modules ( three) that will make up the "set".    

This next shot, shows somewhat the process I use of "place and move" details, buildings, etc. to get a "pleasing", somewhat more "realistic" layout of the features, before "locking" everything down.    

The "I beam" bench and leg assemblies will go with the modules to support them. I chose this because I had to make the modules so shallow to permit dual gauge operation below the level of the "standard" mainline trackage.
The white, suitcase sized box, under the modules is the case I use to transport (by checked baggage on the airline) thirty pieces of rolling stock, and three locomotives, back when I would go out to San Diego for equipment training in my old job. I'd spend my weekends running the train on the San Diego Model Railroad Club's layout in the Balboa Park, San Diego Model Railroad Museum. I haven't forgotten the hospitality of that group in letting me "come in and play".

I have an update at:

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/dcc_update/



Thank you if you visit
Harold

Racking my brain to try to come up with a source for a spring small enough to be a hood spring for one of my Junkyard cars it struck me -- what was used in the little clasps on jewelery? Now I know!! A very tiny spring!! Take a look.
I'll bet many of you will find a use in your modeling for a tiny spring -- for instance-- ever seen any one model HO garage door springs ?


   

I am in need of 2 HO Scale Atlas GP7's. I am looking for newer DCC Ready locos. I also would prefer to have them Undec but what would take anything. They need to run and i would like them to be in great condition as the guts will be used for the end results.

With Dynamic Brake or w/o Dynamic Brake doesnt really matter. Phase I or Phase II doesnt matter either. Just in need for 2 Atlas DCC Ready GP7's. There going to be sent to Josh (jbaakko) for a major kitbash, and these are the starters lol

If you have any Atlas DCC Ready GP7's and are willing to let them go, please contact me at <!-- e --><a href="mailtoteelmillmodeler@aol.com">steelmillmodeler@aol.com</a><!-- e --> with a asking price and how many you have.

I would like to do a trade on them if your interested, but would also pay for them via PayPal or Money Order

Hi guys, my grandfather has a friend that has an old American Flyer Train Set that he got when he was a little kid and has held onto ever since. Its been safely stored away for years. I believe it is HO scale and he said it is in excellent condition. He said he only set it up and played with it a few times when he got it.

What does a train set like this go for these days? I dont have any pictures of the set yet, but i just wanted to see if anyone here knew what it was worth?

Thanks in advance,