They will never end..

First off, some classic Majorette 1:87 Construction trucks



The toys have been used well enough, soon to both get make overs, starting with the tractors



They are from Kmart, from Norscot.



Next is some long awaited Centerflow Hoppers I have been working on and putting off a lot. Finally deciding to make the rest of the decals, and now have a total of 6 of which 4 are done. I used graffiti off of real train pictures and edited the tagging to the cars.

The finished decal sheet:









Last hopper almostfinished with the decals, but with no reporting marks, trucks, or couplers:




And last, I got 2 of these guys, one needed a coupler and the other needs the spine/coupler/trucks, but for $4 total I can't complain

I have for sale the following Walthers Gold Line Rolling Stock. They are all NEW IN BOX and have never been out of the box. These are GOLD LINE CARS, and include the following:

* Turned Metal Wheels
* PROTO Max Couplers
* Better Operation
* Enhanced Appearance
* Colorful new paint and lettering schemes
* Factory-Assembled


~~~Walthers 50' High-Cube Paper Service Boxcars:

**CN #406569. Walthers part number 932-7106.
**AOK #14109. Walthers part number 932-7119.

$13.98 EACH

~~~Walthers 16,000 Gallon Funnel Flow Tank Cars:

****TGOX ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7208
**ADM Corn Syrup ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7223
**PROCOR Optimizer ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7228
**GATX ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7231
**Cargill (Old Logo) ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7232
**HARX ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7233

$13.98 EACH

~~~Walthers 16,000 Gallon Funnel Flow Tank Cars:

**Darling ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7272
**SCMX ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7273
**CELX ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7274
**UTLX ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7276
**Shell Oil Company ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-7277

$13.98 EACH

~~~ Walthers 72' Centerbeam Lumber Flats:

**Chicago Heights Transfer & Terminal #273209 ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-4137
**Trailer Train #86377 ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-4127
**Union Pacific #273182 ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-4123
**NOKL #8255 ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-4131
**TTX #856962 ~~ Walthers Part Number: 932-4135

$13.98 EACH



~~Wiking Vehicles

**Wiking #6574029 Hako Citymaster Street Sweeper ~~ BRAND NEW, NEVER BEEN OUT OF THE BOX

$10.00


The more you buy, the more you save!!

Shipping will be via USPS Priority Mail and will be based on your zip code and the amount of cars you buy. The more cars you buy, the better the shipping rate will be overall!!!

I accept PayPal, USPS or BANK Certified Money Orders, or Personal Checks

PM or post here if interested.

My family and I have recently visited two live steam model events. One (last week) was at the Golden Horseshoe Live Steamers in Hamilton at the Hamilton Museum of Steam & Technology (<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://old.hamilton.ca/myhamilton/CityandGovernment/CultureandRecreation/Arts_Culture_And_Museums/HamiltonCivicMuseums/Events/SteamMuseum.asp?site=STEAM">http://old.hamilton.ca/myhamilton/Citya ... site=STEAM</a><!-- m -->)

I'm uploading a few pics of this event. Being a British train modeler & enthusiast, I was happy to see that more than half of the locos running were British models! My favourite was an LNER Atlantic but there was also a British Railways 0-6-0 Tank engine, as well as a large British diesel, a Great Western (a County, I think) as well as others.

My sons were really getting into this so today, the family and I drove north to the Oak Ridges Moraine and visited the Richmond Hill Live Steamers (<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.geocities.com/richmondhill_livesteam/">http://www.geocities.com/richmondhill_livesteam/</a><!-- m -->)and enjoyed some excellent rides on their property, which is in a very nice hardwood forest. We plan to go again in September when more locos should be running.

Rob

   
   
   

While looking through a copy of Railpace Magazine, I noticed this picture of and Arcade & Attica steam loco. I'm not big on steam locos, and it maybe my eyesight, but it seems like the tender is tilted toward the loco. I can see the practicality of tilting the tender, to get the water to the boiler, but every steam loco model I've seen the tender is level. Am I just imagining this, or is it a detail model manufactures overlook, as "unnecessary".
   


In this picture, I drew a level line, and put an arrow on the tender, showing the tilted end. I think it is tilted on one end. Any input from you steam afficendos would be helpful.
   

In doing research for industries to build for my layout, I came across an interesting fact about the 1950's era that I (and several others) model. One budding industry that I've never seen mentioned (in a model railroading sense) was air conditioning. We often see the use of ice houses being modeled for this period, but AC and refrigeration were bursting onto the scene.

Quote:In the Jan. 29, 1951 issue of The News, it was reported that sales of household refrigerators for the first 10 months of 1950 had exceeded 5 million units.

Waterfall Tutorial
Steve.....That's an awesome tutorial....straightforward and well illustrated. And the results are terrific..!!!
Guess I'll have to make room for one when I get around to building the peninsula section of the layout....

How to make a waterfall

MATERIALS NEEDED:


1) Liquid Nails “Clear Seal”

[album]1348[/album]

(it does not dry “milky”) It worked great for me. You could try a substitute….but why would you…LOL!
2) A non-stick cookie sheet (don’t use your wife’s)
3) Cotton balls (use your wife’s)
4) hairspray (your call)
5) Toothpick
6) Craft Knife

STEPS:
1) Prepare the area. This includes finishing (texture and color) all the terrain around and BEHIND the future waterfall. what method you used is entirely up to you (in this case I used Sculptamold and paint)
In the photo below, you will notice(in the red circle) that I made the edge, where the water will spill over, protrude further out than the rest of the rock face. This will allow the "water" to fall without interruption all the way to the bottom. This would not be necessary if you planned on a series of smaller falls spilling into each other on the way down.

[album]1349[/album]


2) Measure the length and width of the falls. Add a quarter inch to the width and a full inch to the length to account for shrinking (I didn’t notice any).


3) Run beads of the sealant to the proper length and width.

[album]1350[/album]


4) Work it with a tooth pick in downward strokes to pull all the separate beads together and rough up the surface.

[album]1351[/album]


5) Pull the sealant out to the sides at the bottom. This is where your falls will strike the surface of the lake/stream etc.

[album]1352[/album]

When finished let dry a few days. It remained tacky even after waiting but that actually helped with the installation.

6) Carefully peal the “water” from cookie sheet (it may stretch a little…don’t worry about it) and cut to size.

7) The backside of the sealant will be very tacky…use that to attach it in place.

Make sure the waterfall is taut and straight. I used small pieces I cut off at the bottom to simulate the “splash” of the falls entering the water.

[album]1353[/album]

[album]1354[/album]


Now, you can stop right here (especially on a short waterfall) or take it to the next level and add the spray effects.


Spray effects:

Take cotton ball

[album]1355[/album]


And pinch a little between your fingers and pull it carefully away (keeping it attached)

[album]1356[/album]


Keep going back to the ball itself and repeating until you have a lengthy, wispy looking piece of cotton.

[album]1357[/album]


Place on the falls. Move it around and see where you like it. It should stick on its own, at least temporarily,(if not use a FEW TINY SPOTS of white glue to help).
Make as many as necessary and don’t forget about the sides of the waterfalls (this really helps make it look like the water has volume and isn’t flat!)

9) Once everything is where you want it…spray with hairspray (a few light coats are better than one heavy…bet you heard that before…LOL)

Some time in the future the cotton may become dusty or discolored…you can always pull the cotton off and replace it….good as new!


Looks good in person….looks good in pictures!

[album]1358[/album]


Deano took this bottom picture...can't ya tell!...LOL

[album]1359[/album]

Deano, your pics are flat out THE BEST!!!!



There are many ways to do one of these...this is ONE way.

But I will say one thing for this method...It is very easy and almost "Steve Proof"!


Steve

Dear Employees and public:

Today 8/22/09 at the GERN factory in Eaton change has brought an end to the production of Gern products to be shipped out thruough Eaton as of next week. Yes it sounds as if the economy cought up with Gern here but not to worry as it is changing pace and assumes to keep all employees, rail traffic and tends to hire at least 120 more to add to its 285 employees. We here at the GERN plant are going to change hands to packaging supplys to the rest of our factories and alike to help save extra funds needed else where. As stated we will construct a addition on our current plant to be able to handle the expected work load.

Good Day All!

I was wondering if any of the fine folks here on the guage can point me in the direction of a supplier who carries scale size nut and bolt details.

I found one on-line dealer so far. http://www.scalehardware.com/

They have some pretty decent brass and nickel plated nut, bolts and threaded detail parts. Some fairly small sizes that could pass for 1" or 2" nut and bolt details at pretty reasonable prices too.

Just curious if any of the scratch building gurus here have a reliable source for this kind of stuff.

Thanks a bunch!