Eleven cars filled with dry ammonia derailed in Colorado Springs. You might catch it on your national news.

Might as well get this started on the proper day, at least.

While I hadn't intended to do any more work on the second level of my layout until I got some other tasks out of the way, I decided to start the roundhouse for the Mount Forest terminal area.
I've had this Korber kit for a number of years, with the intention of using it here. It was too long for my requirements and too big for the intended locale, too, so I lopped-off one two-window bay from the rear. Because of the proximity of the tight radius curve which passes behind it to gain access to the upper staging yard, across the aisle, I also shortened #1 stall.



This is a resin kit, and I since didn't trust ca for permanent assembly, I used machine screws in conjunction with JB Weld epoxy. The screw heads haven't yet been filled over. I'm also ditching the kit's wood truss framing and cardstock and gravel roofs for styrene, as I want the roof to be removeable.

Wayne

I'm having trouble with images linked to other off site accounts like photobucket. (in CNNutbars thread my Hometown) It just shows the "i'm loading" circle some places. 2 computers, 2 different browsers.
Charlie

I've been scouring the internet and ebay for these particular AGP Refined Oil tank cars leased from TILX but haven't had any luck. I've found TILX cars with no AGP markings and I've found AGP grain co op decals. If anyone can point me in the direction of these cars and/or a set of the refined oil decals it would be much appreciated. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.atlasrr.com/hofreight/ho25500tankcar1.htm">http://www.atlasrr.com/hofreight/ho25500tankcar1.htm</a><!-- m -->

Monday already and no WPF? Here is a pic of my scratchbuilt O-scale Baldwin S-12 to kick it off.

Cross posted from tips & tricks (hope that's ok, maybe this is more appropriate section anyway)

I'm back to building my baseboard but stalled on choosing a method for module connection and track transition. I could really do with some advice from those more experienced than I.

My layout is modular to allow it to be moved when I move house. However it will probably stay up for a year or more. I have an aversion to really obvious module joins. I can cope with a fair amount of time necessary in setting up again at new property including some rework on the track at joins as I'll use PVA glue for adhering the track direct to plywood baseboard, ballest will be adhered with dilute PVA. That should allow me to rewet and nudge the track if necessary.

I don't have a lot of experience with modules so I had planned to follow an approach used often in the UK for exhibition layouts. DCC components baseboard dowels and bolts with wing nuts. The track cut right at the baseboard join with brass screws or PCB sleeper and soldered. However I'm now wondering if I'm over engineering this for my purpose.

Option 1

PROS: fast set up, accurate realignment of track, ballest fixed right up to module end
CONS: accurate drilling and initial alignment paramount, more obvious module gap?

So I thiigh again and looked at ending the fixed track before the module ends and using a transition section of rail that can be dropped in. The idea being, I understand, is a higher tolerance in module alignment. I could then use clamps or just bolts to secure the baseboards together.

Option 2

PROS: higher tolerance to misalignment aka my bad building skills, less obvious track gap?
CONS: concern over robustness, trouble with fixing ballest on transition track piece.

I would quite like to minimise the work I need to do, especially if accuracy is so crucial. As this is semi-permenant it's important to me that I disguise the module gaps and track transitions as best I can. I had though that I may bridge the gaps with thin styrene sheet extending a way onto each module where it can be disguised. Then cutting it when I move and repair it somehow. Possible it could only be lightly glued to the baseboard allowing removal so it can be replaced entirely.

My concern with option 2 is how to ballest the transition piece so it blends in with the rest of the track. As it needs to be removable and the fishplates/track joiners need to be easily moved after a year. Has anyone had any experience with this?

I am of course willing to consider other options but I'm keen on using my recent found motivation to get the bench work up in the spare room and lay track:-) it doesn't come often to me for a variety of reasons!

I appreciate any advice.

Kind regards,

Steve

I'm back to building my baseboard but stalled on choosing a method for module connection and track transition. I could really do with some advice from those more experienced than I.

My layout is modular to allow it to be moved when I move house. However it will probably stay up for a year or more. I have an aversion to really obvious module joins. I can cope with a fair amount of time necessary in setting up again at new property including some rework on the track at joins as I'll use PVA glue for adhering the track direct to plywood baseboard, ballest will be adhered with dilute PVA. That should allow me to rewet and nudge the track if necessary.

I don't have a lot of experience with modules so I had planned to follow an approach used often in the UK for exhibition layouts. DCC components baseboard dowels and bolts with wing nuts. The track cut right at the baseboard join with brass screws or PCB sleeper and soldered. However I'm now wondering if I'm over engineering this for my purpose.

Option 1

PROS: fast set up, accurate realignment of track, ballest fixed right up to module end
CONS: accurate drilling and initial alignment paramount, more obvious module gap?

So I thought again and looked at ending the fixed track before the module ends and using a transition section of rail that can be dropped in. The idea being, I understand, is a higher tolerance in module alignment. I could then use clamps or just bolts to secure the baseboards together.

Option 2

PROS: higher tolerance to misalignment aka my bad building skills, less obvious track gap?
CONS: concern over robustness, trouble with fixing ballast on transition track piece.

I would quite like to minimise the work I need to do, especially if accuracy is so crucial. As this is semi-permenant it's important to me that I disguise the module gaps and track transitions as best I can. I had though that I may bridge the gaps with thin styrene sheet extending a way onto each module where it can be disguised. Then cutting it when I move and repair it somehow. Possible it could only be lightly glued to the baseboard allowing removal so it can be replaced entirely.

My concern with option 2 is how to ballest the transition piece so it blends in with the rest of the track. As it needs to be removable and the fishplates/track joiners need to be easily moved after a year. Has anyone had any experience with this?

I am of course willing to consider other options but I'm keen on using my recent found motivation to get the bench work up in the spare room and lay track:-) it doesn't come often to me for a variety of reasons!

I appreciate any advice.

Kind regards,

Steve.