Before I start this discussion I would ask that all responders leave their flame throwers outside as I don't want to see a flame war started here.
Now,on this site and others that I was on I often saw many switching layouts labeled as either Time savers or Inglenook puzzle layouts,especially those layouts that
were linear in their design-be it a straight layout,L-shaped or one with an island added to it. I think this way of thinking is a load of crap.
I did a search for both Time saver and Inglenook and what I found was this- both types of these switching layout puzzles have a specific set of guide lines that need
to followed. These include the track plan,number of switches to be used,number of cars to be used and track capacities.
Now if someone designs a layout that either follows a prototype location or a fictional one and they contain some of the elements of the two types of puzzles that I mentioned
then that is what the modeler was trying to achieve. That's his decision. If we look at his track plan and make some suggestions that may or may not improve operation
fine,but I feel that to label them as a puzzle layout be it Time saver or Inglenook is not right. I will admit that to some extent that a switching layout is a sort of puzzle in that we need
to figure out how to get cars in and out of sidings without fouling other tracks,but I think this is as far as the puzzle thing goes.
Well I think I shot my mouth off enough on this topic. I will now go and put on my flame proof suit and see what happens.

GOOD DAY TO YOU ALL!!!
Can i wish all of the forum members a Happy, prosperous and above all a healthy New Year.
May your pre orders arrive when promised and your trains run faultlessly.

Hey everyone,
it's been awhile since I was on here last. I've torn down the old layout and started making way on a much, much larger layout. I'm in the process of building a double decker layout using a helix...and I've run into a few issues. I want to use code 83 Shinohara flex track to make a double main with a 26" and 28" radius. Here's the dilema. First off, should I put cork roadbed down under the track, or just spike the track directly to the MDF? I've never worked with it before and I don't want to screw up a $400.00 Helix.
I've talked with a few local hobby stores and all the responses are the same. They suggest I use Bachmann EZ track, which would end up costing me about $250.00. No offense to Bachmann users, but I don't want to spend that much money on pre-ballasted track, especially since I can buy ALOT of flex track for that amount of money.
Seoncdly, is there a tool or a way that I can lay flex track while making sure I can get the exact curveture? I don't want to start running trains and find out the hard way that two auto rack trains went "bump" in the middle of the helix.
If anybody can help out with this situation I would greatly appreciate it. I don't want to take the "easy" way out, especially if it's gonna cost me an arm and a leg.
Thanks

I was suffering cabin fever and it was a nice day. Here are a few shots. The NS and BNSF are at Enon Valley. The CSX is in Beaver Falls, PA.
            Charlie

Now, if you think that we have some strange terminologies for stuff we use in model railroading, I can across something the other day that really puzzled me. I needed something (I'll tell you what later), and there it was at my local Walmart, and only $0.97 each. When I looked at the package, it was labeled, "fat quarter". Huh, :o what the heck is a fat quarter and why is this call one? When I got home, I had to Google the term before I know what it was, otherwise, I wouldn't have a clue even now .

My question is, I'm wondering how many of you know what a FAT QUARTER is without looking it up with Google or any other search engine. Be honest, how many really know right now? No peeking on the Internet, no looking it up in a book, no asking anyone else, you either know, or you don't. However, guesses are allowed and welcomed.

It has to do with a very popular hobby that dates back to early America, and possibly before.

Give it a shot, guess if you think you have an idea, but if not, I'll come back in a bit and post a hint..... believe me, the answer left me shaking my head.

In the days leading I to Christmas I found something at work which may interest you guys.
Many of you may know that I work maintenance at a prestigeous school here in Melbourne. The school is now over 150 years old and most of our main buildings date from @ the 1870's.
Well this summer break the main job for me has been the lifting of carpets and flooring to enable the contract electricians to run an evacuation speaker curcuit as well as to prepare for the installation of a "Guardian" control system. I'm not exactly 100% sure as to what that does myself, but in this day and age being able to co-ordinate and control the school with almost 1200 students and 200 plus staff in an emergency is vital.
Anyway, I was lifting carpets or carpet tiles and floor boards in one area and came across heaps of sawdust between the floor joists [about 8" x 3"] and under the sawdust but above the lathe and plaster was some carefully folded newspaper used as a barrier.
I removed the sawdust and inspected the newspaper, and we found one page dated 18 April 1876.
The classified ads made for some interesting reading as there were details about goods landed and up for auction, there were details of ship sailing schedules as well as ads touting the various attributes of ships sailing between Melbourne and London. Several touted having an experienced surgeon on board and one in particular touted having a milch cow on board.
On an other page was an ad for the private sale of a residence near the school in St Kilda Road, Melbourne [a major road] with a 99 foot frontage and 330 foot depth.
Anyone wishing they had title to that land now?
There was also notice of a deceased estate auction, where the gentleman's property named Rosanna near Heidelberg was to be sold, consisting of 800 acres of prime farm land to be sub-divided. This is auction basically forms and dates the establishment of the current suburb of Rosanna near where I live and where I do much of my shopping. Anyone wishing they had title to that land now?
Bizzare that I should happen to pull out such a newspaper.
I have given the original newspaper pages to the schools archivist as it provides an accurate date for the building an a glimpse of Melbourne of the time.

Mark

This is a topic that has been discussed probably in every forum, but I'm not sure we talked about it here. From what I find, the "ideal" layout height is suppose to be between 42" and 48". I've seen where others talk about theirs being as low as 36" and a few going above 50".

My question is, what is the height of your layout, and are you happy with it that way and would you change it if you could?

Higher is great for viewing, but lousy to reach and work on. Lower is great for working. reaching and seeing what you're doing without using a step-stool, but you lose depth of view that way. I just destroyed my entire layout a few months ago when we thought we were going to move. I think it was somewhere in the 42" range, and I think I'll put the new one just about that high as well, but I'm curious what everyone else thinks is the right height for a single-layer layout and possibly the top deck of a double-layer one.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.athearn.com/Search/Default.aspx?NYA=True&Page=1">http://www.athearn.com/Search/Default.a ... rue&Page=1</a><!-- m -->

The late style tank train is very tempting. Has anyone on Big Blue run twelve or more on their layout? Any issues running them?

Big Blue's annual maintenance is scheduled for December 31st. We will shut down at 11:59 PM and be back online January 1st, 2015 at 12:01.

New Federal laws also dictate that we shut down for a three-day period once every three years. Because of that, we are giving you advance notice that we will be offline during the period of February 29, 30 and 31, just as we did three years ago. We regret any inconvenience this might cause anyone.

Id like to attempt a double deck around the room shelf layout and have some questions: 1st is what is a good height between decks and 2 best way to reach the 2nd shelf minus the helix? Also any other tips or ideas will help. Thanks