Just like the stock cars, I was unsure if I should enter this one:  it's an Athearn Blue Box caboose, which I had hoped to upgrade with a few details.  However, I'm stumped as to the best method to create one of the details, so I've decided to omit them for now, adding them later if I come up with a solution.

Here's the kit, $3.00 new in the box, probably 'cause there aren't very many around here modelling the New Haven :
   

The diagonal-panel roof is too modern for my late-'30s modelling era...
   

...and the sealed-pane type windows wouldn't be too popular with my crews...
   

As you can see in the photo above, I've already started fixing the windows.  The replacement shown is from Grandt Line, although Tichy offers an identical part.

I also started altering the roof, using an X-Acto #17 chisel blade to remove the bulk of the material, then finishing off with a small mill file:
   

My original thought was to replace all of the windows with the Grandt Line versions, but once the end windows were enlarged, I thought that it looked too crowded...
   

...so I made some plugs from .060" sheet styrene, sealing the openings completely:
   

Still "plugging along", the holes in the roof and floor casting were taken care of, using styrene rod of the appropriate diameters.  I prefer it over sprues, as it's easy to re-drill holes to suit the rod, making the holes .006" - .009" undersize, then forcing the solvent-soaked rod into place.  This saves on the necessity of using body putty to fill any gaps:
   

As you may have noticed, I also shaved off the grab irons and a few other details - this is easiest to do before removing the paint, although there's usually a little finishing work to do after the paint is gone.  Next, into the paint stripper, in this case methyl hydrate, which works well on the original Athearn paints:
   

In a few minutes, the paint began to blister.  I'll take a break while it works:
   

Wayne

Does anyone have any information about the RBBB red unit coming to Youngstown the first week in March?
I am guessing CSX routing from Florida because it is the first show of the season. From Youngstown it goes to Columbus. I would like to get some pictures of the train en-route to Youngstown, Along the old P&LE if that is the routing.
I have heard nothing about it running NS., but that is a possibility too.
Charlie

Can I use this quite modern Walthers grain elevator in the time frame 1930 - 1935?



I have it still on storage from an older layout and think about reusing it.
My first concern is if elevators made of concrete have been common in 1930 already?
My second concern is if they would fit in a small town just to collect the local farmers harvest. The photo belongs to an older layout where the elevator was part of an industrial complex (gray building) etc..

Train show last weekend... ran across the following and was wondering if anyone has seen one before and could possibly help with identifying the manufacturer. I did buy the car for $3, but didn't take a photo of it to post here. On the bottom of the car, there is "YUGO" and "Tempo" molded in the plastic. The car is similar to an Athearn tank car, except the tank is a larger diameter.

I found a website with a photo that says it is an AHM Rivarossi 40' tank car "5627E" - however, the website has the same exact ID on another tank car which looks quite different than this one. The photo is linked from the website: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.20thcenturyhobbies.com/trainnut/PJLayoutImages/ClintonLayout3.htm">http://www.20thcenturyhobbies.com/train ... ayout3.htm</a><!-- m -->

Anyone have any or seen this model before?

This via Google...derailment and fire at the Loop tunnel...
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/lanow/20...rst-1.html

Fire continues to burn at train derailment near Bakersfield
February 21, 2010 | 1:53 pm


Firefighters continued to battle a stubborn tunnel fire Sunday that broke out when several cars of a freight train derailed near Bakersfield.

Several homes were evacuated when a tanker car carrying denatured alcohol burst into flames, authorities said.

There were no injuries in the accident, which happened about 9:30 p.m. Saturday at the entrance to a tunnel on the Tehachapi Loop south of Keene, the Kern County Fire Department said in a statement.

At least two cars came off the tracks and one of them caught fire, producing a toxic cloud, the statement said. At least two other cars were also on fire, said Lena Kent, a spokeswoman for BNSF Railway, which owns the train.

As a precaution, authorities evacuated homes within a mile of the incident Saturday. Fewer than 10 homes were affected, said Engineer Justin Corley, a Fire Department spokesman. A temporary shelter was set up at Tehachapi High School.

The alcohol fire was contained to the tunnel and firefighters allowed it to burn out overnight, Corley said. But when it became apparent that a car containing plastic pellets had also caught fire at the entrance to the tunnel, they decided to move it out and spray it with foam to extinguish the flames.

“Alcohol is going to burn off very quickly, but the pellets will keep smoldering for some time,” Corley said.

Authorities extended the evacuation order Sunday to homes within a two-mile radius of the incident.

Corley said the burning plastic was “putting up a column of dark smoke.” A car containing cornmeal was also on fire Sunday, Kent said.

It wasn’t immediately clear whether the flames had spread to any other cars.

“We can’t get inside the tunnel to take a look because of the heat,” Corley said.

Authorities had not established what caused the train to derail. The train was traveling from Barstow to Stockton on Union Pacific tracks when the accident happened, Kent said.

Firefighters were being assisted by the Kern County Environmental Health Agency, the Kern County Sheriff’s Department, the California Highway Patrol and railroad crews.

-- Alexandra Zavis

Show Hours: 9-4 Saturday, 9-3 Sunday

Over 625 dealer tables and over 50,000 sq. ft with


<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.allentowntrainmeet.com/">http://www.allentowntrainmeet.com/</a><!-- m -->

Investigators are trying to determine how and why three teenage girls were struck and killed by a southbound train in Melbourne early Saturday night as they walked across a trestle spanning Crane Creek.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.floridatoday.com/article/20100221/NEWS01/2210317/3-girls-killed-by-train-in-Melbourne">http://www.floridatoday.com/article/201 ... -Melbourne</a><!-- m -->

During the summer months, SZ runs regular steam trains between Jesenice and Nova Gorice. With a visit to a vineyard, with lunch included. Usual motive power is the "Kreigslok" 2-10-0 33-037.

We caught the train at Bled Jesero, which is a short distance from Jesenice.

As I've noticed before, N scale has made a tremendous amount of progress in the past 20 years or so! I am still attempting to "catch up" with this progress as I experiment with my 2' x 4' coffee table layout. ( I have DEFINITELY noticed a great improvement with my new Kato loco! *lol*)

I would like to be consistent with all my rolling stock, etc. and have been under the impression that metal wheels are superior to the plastic ones, and that "knuckle" couplers are better than the old "Rapido" couplers.

I have a few pieces of Bachmann rolling stock with metal wheels and Rapidos, and some Atlas boxcars with knuckle couplers but plastic wheels.

May I please ask this group's consensus on the merits of plastic vs metal wheelsets? Do plastic wheels make the track "dirtier" via plastic residues, etc.?

Also, where I could buy a number of metal wheel sets with the knuckle couplers so I could make sure that all my current and future rolling stock would be compatible?

Perhaps I am confusing "magnetic" knuckle couplers issues with the "regular" knuckle couplers?


All best, and thanks again for putting up with my newbie questions,
Joe

I recently took down a layout that had been in place for a long time (298 Track Nails), and part of the new layout project was to move my workbench and install some shelving (Workspace Lighting).

Since I will be layout-less for awhile, I'm planning on laying some track on one of the shelves to keep myself entertained and to use as a future RIP track, but need some help on a design that is functional and makes sense.

Givens:
- Shelf is 8' long by ~7 3/4" wide
- Switch tails need to be about 18" to accommodate at least one locomotive and one car (Mikados or 0-6-0's, and 40' cars)

I will be using only #6 switches (recently procured a Fast Tracks fixture as part of the larger project capitalization <g>).

The initial design I came up are in the photo and diagram below. Thoughts?

Placement of turnouts
   

Plan. Sorry about the sizing - I'll crop and re-upload this tomorrow.<edit: white space cropped>
Notes:
Black lines represent turnouts - most are joined directly together. I suspect that when I build it, I'll be able to trim the ends of the turnouts somewhat to gain a few more inches.
The vertical dashed lines are 18" from the ends of the shelf (reference lines)
The shortest tails (left end of #3 track & right end of #1 track) are about 16". The longest is the left end of #1 at about 33". Others are just over two feet.



Thanks!