Hi group.
Can anyone tell me if there is any train action left near these areas? I am planning a trip, with a couple days in the Hamilton area then heading North to the Mississippi Lake for a week of fishing, and I was hoping there was still some rail activity in the area that I could take a day to photograph.
I have read there is no longer any rail service to Carleton Place, so any help and current advise will be appreciated.
Thanks all
Charlie

Came across these today on a 3D printing website that i mentioned before (Safeways)Anyway i seen these HO,N,Z scale modern Flood lights <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.shapeways.com/model/1388314/adjustable-led-floodlight-n-z-or-ho-scale-16x.html?">https://www.shapeways.com/model/1388314 ... -16x.html?</a><!-- m -->, and HO scale Gas and Electric meters for HO scale houses and buildings.These are produced by a Guy named Dave's Model RR shop.For $12.38 you get 10 Gas meters and 12 Electric meters.

The Flood lites are produced in a skew with 16 total flood lights(not lighted) in 2 different finishes and the store is Incredible miniture scale models and for 16 of these Flood lights is $16.99(that's about a dollar a piece) Although you will need to add a SMD LED light to make them operable,it is a much more valueable alternative than Vissen's model at ($12.00)a piece.

There are other Model railroad items and products on this website,just do a search for "Modell railroad" and wa-la!

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A while back Vigdis bought the White Rock freight house from Monroe Models, but has only recently started building the kit. She wants a detailed interior, but the kit came with no flooring at all, or any suggestions on how the interior should be. The trackside doors are situated a little higher than the ones on the opposite side, indicating two different floor levels inside the building. Does anyone here know how this was done? Was there a small elevated deck just inside the loading doors, with a ramp or stairs down to the main floor level, or was it some other solution? What about shelves or storage racks inside the building, were there any of those or was the building pretty much just a big empty space? Any info here would be great, prototype pics from a similar freight house would be even better .

Thanks,
Svein

maybe jumping the gun a little for the holiday weekend, but here's Shay #7 doing a little switching. It started as a 3-truck MDC kit that I could never get the 3rd truck to work right. So, I converted it to two truck, and that meant building a new frame. I decided on a new NWSL gearbox and also re-designed the power pickups on the trucks. It runs well now, maybe a little noisy.

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To ride the trains...Of course.
Gonna spend a week down there and we are scheduled to ride one day.
Was wondering if there were any other attractions, railroad especially, that anybody knows in the area, since my girlfriend(who by the way, planned the whole trip) likes trains also. Any other things to do would be ok. I guess.
Any good railfan areas?

And this is my first real vacation since 1991.

Since a very long time this very nice small Japanese steam engine model is in my stock and never it was in use.
This should be changed because our small club will be a participant of an large model rr exhibition in next year. And there I would like to run a short Sacramento Daylight train with this loco.
This model is a very good runner however a few small repairs and additions and digitalizing is base for use on exhibition.





The first what I had to do, was to substitute the old, hardened and broken rubber tube as a connection of engine and worm-gear.



I replaced this by a Nylon universal joint that I had divided, shortened and new connected by a screw shaft and I'm absolutely secure that this solution will outlive the model. Now the axle including the gear is free moveable down and up, better then ever before. I think that rubber tube connections as drive shafts were never the best solution!



Next step was to prepare the loco for better current pickup because I planned to use maybe all wheels for electric pickup. First I added a small part of lead into the frame of trailing truck and I screwed on a fine flat spring contact for better current pickup of noninsulated wheel side. Because the truck is fixed with a screw including a coil spring so the power will transferred to frame.



On underside of the truck I mounted a second, insulated pickup contact that I made from a Kadee center spring and that take the current from inside of insulated wheel rim. I can say to you that you will not see one part of this additionally pickup contacts if you are looking from side on model.



Here this is the loco view on the underside and there are two additional contacts on flanges of drivers which are also insulated mounted onto frame and there is also more contact prepared for the wire to decoder of the side of insulated wheels.

So I have received three additional wheels from the loco additionally to the four tender wheels which take current about insulated wheels. There are also three wheels or more or less also five wheels if you include the front truck on frame side pickup. I have had not really good successes with other models where I used first the tender only for pickup and then I modified and included loco wheels also for better pickup.

Hello all,

I am looking for just the cab from the Spectrum 4-6-0 as the Bachmann parts department only sells the boiler and cab as one unit. With my undecorated 4-6-0 it has the option of putting on the wood or steel cab and was wondering if anyone out there has one (or more) just collecting dust and would like to get rid of it. They look to be the same cab from both the newer 4-4-0 American Standard and the 4-4-0 Baldwins. Let me know what you have.

Please, who can help to find one of HO-scale

BLI/PCM SP Southern Pacific Morning Daylight parlor-observation cars PCM-685 or PCM-695; car #2954 or #2955, skirted only.

These models are out of stock on most (all) great online dealers, unfortunately.
I would like to complete a 5-car Sacramento Daylight train in addition to my SP class A-6 and this one car is missing yet.
Thank you very much for your help. Each response will be answered.

May be you are interesting my report how I installed my first Tsunami sound decoder into an Atheran H0 Genesis GP15-1.

The upgrade from the DC version is very easy

1. swap the Athearn PCB with the Tsunami decoder TSU-GN1000 828058 EMD 645 (Non turbo). Install Tsunami with the capacitors down.
2. reconnect all four power wires and the motor wires (same locations as with Athearn)
3. put the speaker 810113 with the front down and build a styrene box about .35"/9mm high around it. Do not forget to solder two wires to the speaker and have a small opening for the wires.
(Soundtraxx provides construction drawings with correct size to build the baffle. I preferred the easy way und built the box around the speaker laying on a glass plane)
4. mount the baffle with tape to the chassis and solder the speaker wires
5. solder the lamp wires in place ( same location at with Athearn)
6. put the shell back and you are done with the hardware :-)

The Tsunami did work with the Athearn drive out of the box fine.
I selected speedtabel CV25=11 and reduced speed down to 32 in CV66 and 95 (set bit 4 in CV 29!). Sound became "apartment friendly" after CV128 was set to 20

I am very satisfied!

Two sample photos taken at a test run after step 4. the baffle needs to be removed again and the small holes in the corners and the speaker need to be closed to trap the sound in the baffle.




ps. Vernon contemporary industry "shoe box" buildings are the perfect training to build baffles. Just shrink the dimensions and omit the loading dock