Today, at a friend's suggestion, I went to our local Habitat for Humanity Restore outlet and picked up a 2' wide by 6' long kitchen countertop for $20. It will need cutting at the one end where it was basically broken off from the other section of counter top -- so it's rough & damaged at that end.

I'm thinking of using this for my 27" wide by 58" long N-scale layout. This layout basically consists of a piece of 27x68" pink foam only, which I've been using as an operating layout. The layout is about 50% finished in terms of scenery. Obviously, I will have to cut the countertop down to 68", which will get rid of the rough, damaged end.

It's also obviously slightly too narrow for my current layout but it's probably OK to have a few inches of over-hang? Otherwise, I will either have to add onto the countertop or use it for something else!

At any rate, this countertop seems quite strong and flat and was very cheap. Has anyone else used something similar or have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Rob

Once again, it is time to pay tribute to those who gave so much on our behalf.

Hi guys,
I've decided to come to you all here on Big Blue for some more help. I've had excellent advice in the past, and I could sure use some now. Here is the problem I have. I'm in the process of building a double deck layout with areas of both single and double main track (running DCC of course). I've bought Tortoise by Circuitron switches and I'm running into a mental roadblock. I want to be able to wire up my switches so that I can look at a screen (much like Class 1 dispatchers) and 1) see what route my switch is lined, and 2) what track each train is occupying. I have numerous switches to install, and I have Switch-It (switch machine) decoders to go along with them, but I'm uncertain as to how to wire the switches. I know I can wire 2 switches to each Switch-It, and that I can use DCC accessory addresses to address each switch individually. How would I wire switches so that only my "dispatcher" can active them? Will I even need the Switch-It decoder machines or do I just attach the switches directly to the bus wires and then.....?

I'm not trying to sound like a prude or anything, I just want to be able to have my crews run their trains and not worry if they are lined up (hey if it's CTC, your go by signal indication after all). Secondly, the dispatcher (and only the dispatcher) should be able to throw the power switch (unless given authority to "hand operate", just like in the real world.)
I personally have never operated a train on someone else's layout, but I can't think it's much fun having to worry if each and every power switch is lined for your move, let alone when your train clears a power switch, that it's lined correctly for the next guy.
So here is what I'm trying to accomplish...

1) Dispatcher's can only line switches from a remote area someplace else on the layout.
2) A system (such as screen) that will allow the dispatcher confirmation as to the direction the switch is lined.

Any ideas or suggestions would help greatly.

A couple of mundane ballasting phots to start off:

Ballast spread:



Ballast groomed:



Ballast wetted:



Dilute white glue applied:



Ballast dried and track back in service:



The track here is Central Valley tie strips with ME code 83 rail. The track on the right in the ballasting photos uses the more prototypical 8'6" CVT #2003 strips, while the left track is 9'0" CVT #2001. While the former looks pretty good, I found it tedious to install and managed to actually roll a rail when testing it - my locomotives do have extra weight, but I didn't think them to be that heavy! I pulled up the rolled rail without unsoldering any of the joints, applied contact cement to the rail and the tie strips, then carefully re-seated it. For the less-protoypical 9' ties, the rail was originally placed with contact cement (as were all tie strips) and has been problem free. I got a very good price on those 9' tie strips and the only place where the extra length is readily apparent is where turnouts have been installed - I used a variety of ME, Shinohara, Peco, and Atlas turnouts - and from the eye-level view afforded on the upper level, it's not really an issue.
As for the ballast, it's screened Ohio limestone, graciously supplied by my good friend Charlie B. I'll be making a visit to one of the nearby Ontario quarries (at least three within 15 minutes drive) to get some more, and see if the colour is comparable.

Wayne

Hey everyone! The Lansing Model RR Club is hosting Michigan's largest train show on NOVEMBER 15th, at the Michigan State University Pavilion. Over 500 dealer tables and ten+ layouts of various gauges. It is an excellent show. For more information go to lmrc.org. Hope to see you there!

Chuck

I'm a new to this forum and was in need of some suggestions. I have been an armchair modeler for over 10 years and I really enjoy reading about this hobby. I'd like to get into it a little but I don't have a ton of time being a teacher and coach. Recently my dad mentioned wanting a train around the tree or a Christmas village. He and my mother have always liked the villages in the stores. I thought about it and had an idea that may not be very feasible. I would like to create a small layout with a Christmas theme, yet realistic. I was thinking a small mining or logging railroad. Think Christmas in the Appalachians. I don't want to tackle modeling snow, however, and it doesn't snow in my neck of the Appalachians much till January anyway. I have a few ideas and "druthers" and I'd like everyone's opinion on them. I'll number them for simplicity's sake.

1. I have room for a 2 x 6 layout so I am thinking narrow gauge. I have seen a couple of nice mining layouts about this size. However, I can't hand lay turnouts so what size should I use? Are commercial turnouts available in all narrow gauge scales? I want to use HO or above. I'm leaning On30.
2. I will be using DCC because it will require a good bit of lighting and hopefully sound. That is something I will have to improve on as I go.
3. I want it to be a continuous loop since it will be mostly display although a chance at small operations would be nice.
4. Here comes the kicker. It needs to be something I can build rather quickly and look "finished" as it will be a Christmas display. It also needs to be portable or removable rather as it will not be up except November through January. I can add to it every year during the holidays and work on structures and trees and such during the summer. Although it will "grow" through the years it needs to be display worthy within a few weeks. Details can come later.
5. Budget is not a major problem as I want a good DCC system and good locomotive. But, outside of that I don't want to spend a ton of money especially in the beginning.

All suggestions and comments are welcome. Thanks in advance!

Hello!

The following is part of a locomotive upgrading project. There were traditional styled brass castings of Commonwealth tender trucks. Each sideframe consists of an outer brass casting which represents the typical Commonwealth truck frame and an inner brass casting double acting as axle bearing and mounting plate for brake shoes. This double layer construction rises the measurement of the overall width of the trucks and made them very broad.


This photos also shows the double layer sideframes.
First step is to make drill starting points for the axle bearings in the outer castings. The inner side of them is flush and this procedure avoids the trouble to find out the exact location for it when the parts are divided. So it is simple to get the right locations.
The drilling is not very deep, just for starting points. I used a 1.5mm drill bit.




Next is you take your cutting-off wheel and clamp it in your Dremel or else. Wear eye protection!
First cut off the outer brake shoes. Carefully pay attention that they do not fly off anywhere into the universe ...
Then made four cuts in the inner casting where the axle bearings are to divide and separate them. The wanted parts are the brake shoes and the mounting angles. The unwanted parts are the six bearings which are the main reason why the trucks are so broad. So the inner brake shoes and the mounting angles will be stay fixed. In the photo one of them has got loose and will have be resoldered.
One of the sideframes looks a little bit strange.




Then drill the bores which will became the new axle bearings. Again a 1.5mm drill bit is used and as depth stop i used an lenght of a brass tube with 1.5mm inner diameter. Only the tip of the drill bit is now active and the brass tube limits the depth of the bore.
Later the bores were enlarged to 1.7mm as this 6 wheel truck is rigid and the axles must have some more bearing clearance ratio.




Then "release the brakes". By milling and filing the outer edges of the brake shoes so, that they under no circumstances do not touch the wheels anywhere.
Otherwise not only are the "brakes applied", there will be a solid short circuit. A very solid one




Here the strange sideframe was repaired by soldering small sections of suitable brass tube into the oversized holes.
Also the broken off mounting angle was resoldered.




Next is to narrow the center pieces of the trucks, Drill 2.0mm bores just beside the existing bores, but further to the middle.
File slots to connect the remaining inner halfs of the old bore with the new bore. Now this will have the form of a fork. Cut off excessive material on the tips of the forks to get the correct width, the cutting line will go just through the middle of the old bores.
Screw trucks together and make sure the outer frames are paralell.
Refit the outer brake shoes by soldering. Here also pay carefully attention the "brake is released".
Make a test run of the trucks on a powered strech of rails. Are there any sparks and electrical shorts?
When yes you have to remove further surplus material on the brake shoes.




Old vs reworked.



The brake shoes are now exact were they belong to. Not before, but just in the level of the wheel rims.



And this is how it looks now when mounted under the tender.



Good bye broadgauge.

So long, i hope you like this spleeny ideas of a emphasized maniac.

Lutz

Edit: grammatics, misspelling, supplementations

Marklin L&N DIXIE LINE AMERICAN GONDOLA WAGON 39099
The above vehicle is a 3 rail version and my line is 2 rail. Therefore I assume it needs to have the wheels or trucks changed but I don't know what size wheel or type of truck. As I also need to change the couplings for Kadee's as well, it would seem to me that changing the trucks makes more sense. Help please, thank you.